Hendo's Randall 35 Cray Boat complete rebuild, Perth, Western Australia

[Hendo78]

Matt


I hope the land owner can be a bit flexible. Don't drive yourself and Flic crazy trying to meet his apparently suddenly revised schedule. End O' July will be soon to arrive. If you are not johnny on the spot for that schedule... what's he gonna do???


Am I correct that you are making ready for "Splash" when you move her??


Best luck in every way!!


Cheers!


Art

Yes sir that’s correct. Straight from here to the water. Technically once I’ve finished painting at the end of feb she could go in the water. The major components all work (engine, gearbox, steering). Would be a huge pain in the arse but I could do it. I’m glad I’m not lol. I guess if push came to shove and I had to move it and I was a few weeks away from finishing her I could take it to the shipyard and finish it there but I’m pretty sure I could squeeze another week or two out of him if need be

 

[Hendo78]

I hope you share some fish and a good bottle of adult beverage with the land owner. 8 years is a long time for a boat project not of your own.

Yeah he’s been taken care of with rent and wine and cakes and other things I’ve done for him around his house.

 

[Hendo78]

"Break a Leg" - Good ol' best wish in the "Art" of stage performers.

Don’t cause you know I will. I’ve had a few serious injuries building this boat lol. The last thing I want or need is a broken leg.

 

[Hendo78]

This afternoon I got the call that the hot water boiler and the accumulator tank were good to be picked up. The engine room is fast filling up with items. Not so big anymore lol.

 

[swampu]

Man that is probably the best thing that could have happened, it was for me. I started finishing important things and prioritize the rest. Definitely finish the outside and you can do the inside on the hook

 

[Peter B]

Man that is probably the best thing that could have happened, it was for me. I started finishing important things and prioritize the rest. Definitely finish the outside and you can do the inside on the hook

Absolutely..! Matt, there's nothing like a deadline to motivate oneself. Ask me how I know - no, maybe don't ask...

 

[Hendo78]

Man that is probably the best thing that could have happened, it was for me. I started finishing important things and prioritize the rest. Definitely finish the outside and you can do the inside on the hook

Yeh painting her in February, then I’ll prioritise and systematically work through the rest and hopefully get it squared away in time.

 

[Art]

Yeh painting her in February, then I’ll prioritise and systematically work through the rest and hopefully get it squared away in time.

With the way you seem to turn 24 hr. days into 28 hours each... I'm confident you will turn the word "hopefully" into the word "Reality"!

This is U Big Push to reach Da Big SPLASH!!

I am Excited - for YOU!!!!!!

 

[Hendo78]

With the way you seem to turn 24 hr. days into 28 hours each... I'm confident you will turn the word "hopefully" into the word "Reality"!

This is U Big Push to reach Da Big SPLASH!!

I am Excited - for YOU!!!!!!

Me too brother.

 

[Hendo78]

This afternoon I was playing plumber which was exciting. After careful deliberation last night with the admiral on style, I was finally able to order the toilet today. We chose the MATCH compact porcelain toilet from Planus Marine Toilets. It’s coming from Stella Systems in Queensland and should be on the truck tomorrow with a bit of luck. (They are the same people supplying the windscreen wipers however they are about 10-12 weeks away as they are custom made units from Holland.)

I then began prepping the accumulator tank and water pump filter with brass fittings I picked up today.

I do have a question in relation to the hot water system. I don’t really plan on running the 240v heating element under normal circumstances as I don’t have a diesel generator and 240vdc is by means of an inverter Obviously there will be times I need to but as a general rule I done think I will. I plan on running the engine coolant through the heat exchanger. In an emergency I do have a petrol generator that I can run but it’s not ideal due to the fumes in the engine room etc. 20mins of driving around should heat it up if required. I was hoping to hear from those folks that have theirs plumbed to the engine coolant system and how it was done. Would love to see pics if you have any.

Ok well that’s all for today.

Tomorrow I’ll begin connecting the pipework up and see what else I can squeeze in to the afternoon.

 

[Peter B]

Matt, when the old heating tank in my Clipper finally failed to deliver, I picked up a nice near new Isotherm tank, which had the 240v element in it with thermostat. The boat had once has AC through her, but in the course of water damage repair etc, that had been isolated, and was not used. This did not bother me because I am frankly wary of 240v AC in a vessel, and everything works just fine on 12v DC. However, like you, I wanted to be able to give the tank a heat boost while at the dock, while stowing stuff before casting off, then keep it hot just off the engine coolant heat.

I therefore set it up so that the one entry point of 240v AC to the Ctek smart charger, which was left on at the dock, could be disconnected and plugged into the 240vAC input of the water tank, just while preparing to leave dock. That worked great, and I warmly recommend it. The 30 odd minutes getting prepared to leave was plenty long enough to get the temp of the water up to virtually warm bath temp, and then the engine running, after disconnection of that to leave dock, kept it hot - sometimes almost too hot actually.

 

[Lou_tribal]

I would wire the 240v to be able to use it at the dock. If you spend a night or two on the board at the dock it will be nice to have hot water. Knowing you will certainly work on the boat while at the dock one day it will be great to have no water.
I would install a valve between your expansion tank and the plumbing so you can isolate it if required, in case of any issue or anything else. I installed one last spring and used a flexible connection (I think it is called Speedway in English?) with a valve. In my case it allow me to remove it easily during winter without making a mess.

L

 

[Hendo78]

Matt, when the old heating tank in my Clipper finally failed to deliver, I picked up a nice near new Isotherm tank, which had the 240v element in it with thermostat. The boat had once has AC through her, but in the course of water damage repair etc, that had been isolated, and was not used. This did not bother me because I am frankly wary of 240v AC in a vessel, and everything works just fine on 12v DC. However, like you, I wanted to be able to give the tank a heat boost while at the dock, while stowing stuff before casting off, then keep it hot just off the engine coolant heat.

I therefore set it up so that the one entry point of 240v AC to the Ctek smart charger, which was left on at the dock, could be disconnected and plugged into the 240vAC input of the water tank, just while preparing to leave dock. That worked great, and I warmly recommend it. The 30 odd minutes getting prepared to leave was plenty long enough to get the temp of the water up to virtually warm bath temp, and then the engine running, after disconnection of that to leave dock, kept it hot - sometimes almost too hot actually.

Hi peter.
Thanks for the post. I see your point and will reconsider as suggested. I have a 240vac power point in the engine room. I’ll put a plug on the end of the heating element cable and plug it in but leave it turned off. Can always run down and flick it on like you suggested. Thanks for that.

Do you have any pipework pics of how the engine coolant pipework comes off the engine and into the hot water system? All of my engine hoses are rather big in comparison to the inlet on the system.

 

[Lou_tribal]

Here is what I used to connect my tank:



L

 

[Hendo78]

Here is what I used to connect my tank:

View attachment 84052

L

Thanks Lou, do you have a pic of where it connects to the engine at all?

 

[Insequent]

I just replaced my 20yo hot water heater with a Raritan, mostly because it was almost identical and would fit easily.

It has both a 240V element and a heat exchanger plumbed in. I n my case the heat exchanger has a loop to engine coolant and to the Webasto hydronic boiler, so I have 3 ways to get hot water.

The engine loop inlet/outlet are to the right of the blue & white Raritan sticker. I have a temp mixer valve also, with cold water coming up the blue hose to the valve. This valve is important if you have engine loops because the hot water gets scalding hot from running the engine. The engine loop is 3/4" fittings here. To be honest I have never taken any notice of the engine side of the circuit. I might be able to check tomorrow and post a pic.

 

[Lou_tribal]

On my setup the hot water tank is connected in the coolant circuit just after the coolant pump (1 hose going from engine to tank, one back from tank to engine where it should). I don't think it matters much where it is connected but my guess is that it is more effective if connected on the "hot" side of the circuit (so before coolant is going through heat exchanger) as the coolant temp will be warmer and will transfer more heat to the water (well just my logic).

 

[Hendo78]

I just replaced my 20yo hot water heater with a Raritan, mostly because it was almost identical and would fit easily.

It has both a 240V element and a heat exchanger plumbed in. I n my case the heat exchanger has a loop to engine coolant and to the Webasto hydronic boiler, so I have 3 ways to get hot water.

The engine loop inlet/outlet are to the right of the blue & white Raritan sticker. I have a temp mixer valve also, with cold water coming up the blue hose to the valve. This valve is important if you have engine loops because the hot water gets scalding hot from running the engine. The engine loop is 3/4" fittings here. To be honest I have never taken any notice of the engine side of the circuit. I might be able to check tomorrow and post a pic.

Ah nice set up. Thanks for that. Mine has a mixing valve kit too. Was a nice surprise to see. Do you need to pump to pump the coolant through the water boiler or is the water pump on the engine sufficient?

How far away is your hot water boiler from the engine?

Sorry for the Q’s mate. Keen to learn how to do it right

 

[Lou_tribal]

Ah nice set up. Thanks for that. Mine has a mixing valve kit too. Was a nice surprise to see. Do you need to pump to pump the coolant through the water boiler or is the water pump on the engine sufficient?

How far away is your hot water boiler from the engine?

Sorry for the Q’s mate. Keen to learn how to do it right

No need to pump coolant through, water pump enough. This nothing more than some pipe length you add in the closed circuit.
Mine is something like 1 feet from the engine but connecting hoses are around 4 or 5 feet for infeed and 3 feet for outfeed.

L

 

[Lou_tribal]

Also, not sure it is required, but I prefilled mine with coolant by gravity before connecting it to avoid putting a lot of air in the coolant circuit.

L

 

[Art]

Be careful with the petrol gen.


I imagine it's a portable with it's own fuel tank and rube gold berg type of exhaust removal off boat??


You have space/area/location for a perm diesel gen set eventually put in place?

 

[Hendo78]

No need to pump coolant through, water pump enough. This nothing more than some pipe length you add in the closed circuit.
Mine is something like 1 feet from the engine but connecting hoses are around 4 or 5 feet for infeed and 3 feet for outfeed.

L

Ah ok yep cool thanks mate. Im overthinking it. Doesn't sound like me hey haha.

 

[Hendo78]

Also, not sure it is required, but I prefilled mine with coolant by gravity before connecting it to avoid putting a lot of air in the coolant circuit.

L

GREAT idea mate …!!!!

Will do the for sure

 

[Art]

Hi peter.
Thanks for the post. I see your point and will reconsider as suggested. I have a 240vac power point in the engine room. I’ll put a plug on the end of the heating element cable and plug it in but leave it turned off. Can always run down and flick it on like you suggested. Thanks for that.

Do you have any pipework pics of how the engine coolant pipework comes off the engine and into the hot water system? All of my engine hoses are rather big in comparison to the inlet on the system.

Had to do a double take on the word [flick] in quote above - LOL

 

[Hendo78]

Be careful with the petrol gen.


I imagine it's a portable with it's own fuel tank and rube gold berg type of exhaust removal off boat??


You have space/area/location for a perm diesel gen set eventually put in place?

Yep exactly right mate. 5.5hp Honda engine with little fuel tank on it. Gets pretty hot and exhaust gasses are pretty strong form it. Definitely something to be used in emergencies only.

I was given a diesel genset. I will rebuild it one day and might look at fitting it in solstice, or I might save up for one, one day. There are some pretty small units around these days.

 

[Hendo78]

Ok so just looking through some pics of the engine cooling system and with the advice received so far from you guys (Thanks heaps) i'll take the top hose that runs from the back of the water pump to the oil cooler and run it from the back of the water pump to the hot water system then from the hot water system back to the oil cooler t o complete the circuit.

That should work hey?

 

[Lou_tribal]

Is your oil cooler connected to your coolant circuit or raw water circuit? The question sound silly but mine was raw water cooled.

L

 

[Hendo78]

Is your oil cooler connected to your coolant circuit or raw water circuit? The question sound silly but mine was raw water cooled.

L

Yeah she’s connected to the coolant circuit mate.

 

[Insequent]

Ah nice set up. Thanks for that. Mine has a mixing valve kit too. Was a nice surprise to see. Do you need to pump to pump the coolant through the water boiler or is the water pump on the engine sufficient?

How far away is your hot water boiler from the engine?

Sorry for the Q’s mate. Keen to learn how to do it right

My Webasto hydronic heating system has a circulation pump and that takes the coolant through the hot water heater. I think its the Stbd engine that has the water heating loop, and it would be about 9ft away from the hot water heater and have a longer hose (PEX) run. I'll check soon.

 

[AusCan]

Matt, here is a pic of my tie in for water heating, although your engine is unlikely to have the same fittings. It’s the blue and black 1/2” ID hoses on bottom right. The take off is from the upstream side of the thermostat housing.

Make sure you install an isolation / bypass manifold in case you develop a leak in your coolant lines.
If possible, run your coolant lines on a steady downhill slope to the heater to avoid any air locks in the system. Also an engine coolant top up reservoir is a good idea if you don’t already have one.