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Old 11-02-2013, 09:20 PM   #601
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Hi Gang,
Thanks for the replies and Tech info to my issue. good thing I don't have talk to text on my computer cause there be a lot of Mother F*$%& Bloody piece of sh#t F^%$ing stupid bastard F#&K me .... going on lol

I did measure it and she dropped 50mm. She always had a slope on it cause the dip is around 200mm ... but yeah ... too much it would seem

I did find this on the net this morning

http://mysite.verizon.net/resqp86c/p...lers/id29.html

http://www.eagle.org/eagleExternalPo...ullInteraction


Seems like I need to pull it apart and fix it ... F@RKKKKK!!!

another issue is now ive already cut the drive shaft ... Grrrr lol Oh well

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Old 11-02-2013, 09:54 PM   #602
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Matt - This made my day! Bet it made your year!! Congrats!!!
that's great Hendo. Nice to have her history. In that prop chart you sent there was this.
If the prop is in open water, Performance Propellers has available special extended hub propellers that mount on the existing shaft but position the propeller 6 inches aft. This change in position of the propeller, due to the angle of the propeller shaft to the hull, can permit a 2 to 3 inch larger propeller

maybe six inches would get you the clearance you need. Still might handle a bit weird with that hook
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:11 AM   #603
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that's great Hendo. Nice to have her history. In that prop chart you sent there was this.
If the prop is in open water, Performance Propellers has available special extended hub propellers that mount on the existing shaft but position the propeller 6 inches aft. This change in position of the propeller, due to the angle of the propeller shaft to the hull, can permit a 2 to 3 inch larger propeller

maybe six inches would get you the clearance you need. Still might handle a bit weird with that hook
Hey Britt,
Yeah saw that too bit the prop is positioned in the high/low spot so moving it will make it closer to the hull, That and its already close to the rudder.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:30 AM   #604
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Ok well today after getting the heads up from my Trawler Forum possé
and then jumping on google, I confirmed that I was wallaby Ted (Brother of Roo Ted) get it?? ...



Anyway so we went down with the plan of unscrewing the sheets ...
  • FAIL ...
  • The bote-coat sticks like sh!t to a blanket so ended up cutting the sheets off and cutting out some of the jarrah framework as well.
At this stage I was still in denial and thought, Ahhh ... I'll just chuck in some threaded rod and crank the section down until the rudder base lines up and itll all be sweet....
  • FAIL ...
  • I may have buggered the height of this section but i sure didn't bugger up the construction and strength side of it. I did the rod up as tight as i could but nothing. Not even a creak or crack! ...
So by this stage reality had set in and it has dawned on me that i need to remove the sheets and framework from the transom upto where the driveshaft comes out of the keel and start again starting with the framework :angr y:

As crap as this is, I am and will be forever greatfull for everyone coming forward and telling me to STOP and THINK! ... Especially thankful to Britt for sharing his personal experiences to ensure the same doesn't happen to me.

Thanks heaps mate and thanks again for everyone one that came forward

As guttered, angry and disappointed as i am at myself for this happening, Id be devastated to find out about this once im in the water. I reckon that'd break me ...

Thanks again folks








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Old 11-03-2013, 07:47 AM   #605
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Hendo

Good job mate! Been there, Done that and know how much it takes and the hapinness when it's done

About the spacing for the wheel. According to the books you’d need 15% of the wheel diameter on top and 5% on bottom; otherwise you will have vibration and noises. These are obviously flexible numbers. They depend on the wheel design and number of blades. I heard that 5 blade only need 2.5% either way.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:43 AM   #606
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Thanks Port ... Nice pics!
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Old 11-06-2013, 01:19 PM   #607
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Hendo that sag/hook is a far bigger problem than the prop clearance. The red line in post # 601 says it all. Like the red line the bottom should be straight or ever so slightly convex from close to the end of the keel to the transom.

But on the plus side you've otherwise got an excellent semi-displacement hull form even if a bit lacking in deadrise. At 10 to 12 knots it looks to me like you'll have a very efficient boat if you don't get too much weight aft. But the prop clearance and hooked bottom needs to be fixed. At 10 to 15 knots the hook may actually be a plus but it would probably be dangerous going faster. Worst case scenario would be entering a small inlet w outgoing current and seas and wind coming ashore. That hook will drive your bow right down into the next wave and a broach or worse would be almost certain.

But I'm no NA and would like TAD to weigh in here.


Hendo I'm glad my "edit" window hasn't closed.
There's something else I've thought I should have mentioned for a long time but I didn't wish to play w water cannon on your parade so I've not mentioned it.
I've seen lots of old wood boats reworked but this is the first one I've seem where only the frame on the old hull has been retained. Just from your pics your frame always looks it should be part of an archeological dig. It's probably just in the pics though but in view of the prop and hook issue I've decided it would be better mentioned now than never said. Are the frame members solid enough and strong enough to hold the fasteners under basically extreme conditions? Those fasteners will be holding the whole boat together to a great extent. You've run a lot of screws into the old frame members so you should have a good idea of how strong they are. I know oak is often used for framing as it's dense and holds fasteners well. If there is some doubt extra overlay adjacent to frame members may be a good thing.

Here's a very similar boat; http://www.glen-l.com/designs/workboat/potluck.html

My girl likes to work on the boat too.
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:57 AM   #608
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G'day Eric.
Thanks for your reply mate. In response to your post, I appreciate all feedback, suggestions and help beit good, bad or indifferent so please don't think you need to walk on eggshells around me or feel that I only want to hear positive things or only want to have sunshine shot up my a**e.

I post on hear to show everyone what im doing and to open up my project to get ideas and help and to receive feedback. Knowledge sharing is a wonderful thing and without advice from people like you and everyone else on here that has helped me along the way then i'd be up sh!t creek so don't ever think that you're raining on my parade. I might tell you to piss off or ignore your suggestion but that doesn't mean I don't value it

In relation to the hook, its now gone. I gave AXE a nice straight bum with plenty of prop clearance. I thought about leaving the hook as it would be like a giant trim tab but it was easier to make it straight than hook it and still give it the prop clearance I needed.

Now in relation to the last section of your post pertaining to the timber. Im not sure I understand properly so if my answer makes no sense then ive not understood what you meant and will need clarification.



The only original part of the boat that was kept was the keel. The rib timbers are second-hand "Seasoned" Western Australian Hardwood called Jarrah. They measure 100mm x 50mm. Two reasons why I went with second-hand "Seasoned" jarrah.
  1. Cost - Definitely played a big factor. It was less than half of what new timber cost
  2. Seasoned - The jarrah came out of a house that was built in the 60's and was pulled down. The timber actually came out of the roof and was essentially in an oven for over 50 years.
Not only is this timber dry, but it is rock solid and is like iron. Ask any Australian and they will tell you the same thing about Seasoned WA Jarrah.

In relation to the fixings. Because the timber is so hard, I have had to bolt the ribs together thus moving away from the traditional layup and joining of the members and thus making it look like the ARK. Any screws I used either snapped the head off the screw, stripped the thread of the screw or I snapped the driver bit in the drill.


The bolts I am using range in sizes and are dependant on where I am using them but the sizes are
  • M12 cup head bolts (12mm thick Bolts)
  • M10 cup head bolts (10mm thick Bolts)
  • 100mm Bugle head batten Screw (5mm thick)
  • 70mm Bugle head batten screw (5mm thick)
To give you an idea of just how strong these bugle head screws are in the jarrah, I had to cut them off with the grinder and smash the sheets off with a sledge hammer because I snapped all but three of my bugle head drivers and they are strengthened tooling steel

Also not forgetting that I am using epoxy as the main fixing here. The screws are just used to take the tension of the glue line and move it to the sheet face on tight bends. The glue I am using is a high strength epoxy filler powder glue. The glue is actually designed to glue sail masts to ships so the strength properties are unbelievable. Then there's the epoxy filleting and glass matting. It may not look like much now but she'll turn out ok and will out last me with the right maintenance and care.

also adding to the strength is the 450GSM double biaxle cloth that I will be putting on her, plus the 5 mm of epoxy to cover the weave then another 5-8mm of fairing filler powder/epoxy resin mix.

There is nothing conventional or typical in the way I am building this boat. There must be boat builder that read this and think OMFG what is he doing but im not building this to the standards of peoples boats like Portuguese etc. They are in a totally different league. Actually I'm not in any league, im not really in the same game lol

As I have always said. I am not a boat builder. I am just a bloke doing his best to build one.

Whilst this is my first ever attempt at building a boat, I have spent 19 years as a Carpenter. Well 15 years as a Carpenter and 4 years as an Apprentice Carpenter. I know my timbers and am more than confident that the timber and fixings will be more than capable for the job at hand

Below are pics from this mornings effort



































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Old 11-09-2013, 03:21 AM   #609
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Nice one Hendo. Must have been hard to hack into it, but better to do it now than find out she did not go well once in the water, and final paint coats on, etc. At least it gave you a chance to find out just how strong your construction method is.
One thing that puzzles me re this prop clearance issue however, is how about those planing boats where the props are in a recessed tunnel arrangement? They certainly would not have those clearances recommended..? I think you were right to do what you did, because it might have acted like a permanent trim tab, but it is interesting...
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:41 AM   #610
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Thanks Pete. Yeah am very grateful that the members on here worded me up before it was too late. Would hate to have found out the hard way.

Also very happy with how well the epoxy worked out. Pic #7 shows a great cross-sectional view and just how great it is by getting into even the smallest cracks and a 1-2 mm layer on the surface of the ply. Its a great piece of mind to see it. Its one thing to read it but truly a different story to see it first hand and seeing that it was done right is a massive relief and confidence booster for the rest of the work that was done on the hull.

Add the 450GSM F/glass double biaxle cloth, 3 mm thick layer of epoxy to cover the weave than another 5-8 mm of thickened epoxy fairing filler and Its not hard to see how different that would look and how water resistant (dare I say waterproof) the hull will be.

Cheers
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:24 AM   #611
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Whilst this is my first ever attempt at building a boat, I have spent 19 years as a Carpenter. Well 15 years as a Carpenter and 4 years as an Apprentice Carpenter. I know my timbers and am more than confident that the timber and fixings will be more than capable for the job at hand
This post sure answers a lot of questions I've had but didn't want to ask. Thanks for the photo essay!
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:56 AM   #612
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This post sure answers a lot of questions I've had but didn't want to ask. Thanks for the photo essay!
What do you want to know Walt ???
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:11 AM   #613
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What do you want to know Walt ???
I've been following your project since day one and many of the questions I've had were answered in your photo essay. Questions like: What kind of wood are you using for the frames? Are you really going to remedy the hook? What experience do you have as a shipwright? How long have you been a carpenter? Etc. Like I said....they were answered in your photo post. =======> (Please continue.)
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:53 AM   #614
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G-Damn Matt - You got a film crew there! Great picts of your "kink" removal/replacement. Get it on man!!
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:08 PM   #615
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[QUOTE=Peter B;190514]
One thing that puzzles me re this prop clearance issue however, is how about those planing boats where the props are in a recessed tunnel arrangement? They certainly would not have those clearances recommended..? /QUOTE]

Peter, the clearance is still an issue with tunnels. I have seen tunnels where prop diameters had been increased. On the fiberglass there were signs of erosion through the bottom paint and into the first layers of glass. My boat has shallow tunnels and has the clearance.

This picture is not the best angle, but there is clearance all around.
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:27 PM   #616
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I've been following your project since day one and many of the questions I've had were answered in your photo essay. Questions like: What kind of wood are you using for the frames? Are you really going to remedy the hook? What experience do you have as a shipwright? How long have you been a carpenter? Etc. Like I said....they were answered in your photo post. =======> (Please continue.)
Don't be backwards in coming forwards mate. 12 months is a long time to be wondering

Seriously tho, thanks for following and contributing to my thread mate
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:29 PM   #617
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G-Damn Matt - You got a film crew there! Great picts of your "kink" removal/replacement. Get it on man!!
My boat isn't Kinky any more Art ... look like Flic and I will have to make up for that
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:09 PM   #618
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My boat isn't Kinky any more Art ... look like Flic and I will have to make up for that
OMG Matt - Don't publish them type picts

Lest of course ya both really wanna!

Even then - Not On TF!! - LOL

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Old 11-10-2013, 04:08 AM   #619
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OMG Matt - Don't publish them type picts

Lest of course ya both really wanna!

Even then - Not On TF!! - LOL

hahaha its gonna be a party boat but not that type of party lol
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:50 AM   #620
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Made a start on the Marlin Board today. Probably should have allowed to do this when I was originally doing the framework but alas, that would make sense and that is not allowed when Im building things lol ... I Made it nice and big ... . Its gonna get plenty of action with fishing and SCUBA diving and me not being the smallest bloke around, didn't want a pissy little step on the back. I opted to make it a built in one and extend the hull. Its going to have built in angled sides etc but obviously cant do that atm.

Not totally sure but I think it might affect the steering a little but I don't think it going to be a major issue. If its does then on her first pull out I'll chuck on a stern thruster

Anyhoo that's all. Got the BBQ warming up so I gotta go!

























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