Originally Posted by skipperdude
Most times I have seen boats built they start with the boat turned upside down Then roll it over after the hull is built.
Makes it a lot easier to apply the glass and resin to the bottom. Have you considered this?
If you do a search on Portuguese's boat he did a little slide show on rolling the hull over.
As you are just about starting from scratch it would seem to me the way to go.
If you are going to glass the hull from my experience once the resin is applied to the glass it gets kind of heavy and difficult to apply in an overhead configuration.
If the boat is inverted gravity will be your friend.
Sorry not trying to tell you how to do things. It is just the way I have always seen this sort of thing done.
Thanks for your comment.
Don't apologise old mate. I appreciate the tips. It's the only way I learn as I'm no boat builder so any "constructive" criticism or tips and suggestions is always welcome. Just don't hang shit on my work or how i am doing something. Be nice about it is all I ask.
In relation to applying glass and resin ... I won't be.
I can hear it now - "Gasp ... :-O ... WTF ... Why ... Thats Ludicrous", but basically the 100% solids epoxy I am using doesn't require the hull to be sheathed in matting. The only reason i "could" or "would" do it is for abrasion resistance but there no real structural advantages due to the amount of ribs i have and the epoxy process I am doing on it so the cost outweighs the advantages. I'll be doing around the chines with 3 overlapping layers or 150mm wide matting but as for the hull itself, I won't be, so as such, I won't need to flip it
I am encapsulating the ply sheets with 1 x 500 ml soak coat and 1 x 1000ml top coat per side so I'm applying 3ltrs of epoxy per sheet which equates to about 5mm thickness across all of the faces. These two coats are being done on flat panels laid out on my garage floor with a 230mm wide 5mm nap mohair roller.
Once they have all been sanded I will take them to site and use the high strength filler powder mixed with the epoxy to glue them to the ribs. Once the hull has been wrapped, I will then apply a further 2 coats of epoxy (wet on tacky). I will roll these coats on also.
Once they are dry I will add the fairing filler powder mixed with the epoxy and apply that approx 15mm thick across the faces and sand smooth.
So as you can see, there really isn't any need or requirement to fit any matting on the hull as there will be approx 20mm of 100% solids epoxy going on the external faces.
The epoxy I am using is called Bote-cote. Not sure if you can get it in the states or not but its worth looking in to incase. Just google search it and have a read of it. It's an Australian made product that uses no thinners. Basically that's a good thing. The thinner evaporates and leaves little worm type holes allowing water entry. Also a lot of other makes of epoxy have a very high thinner content so you're paying for thinners at epoxy rate and when it evaporates you're only getting about 30% or what you paid for ( or something like that anyway)
Cheers again for your comment
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