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Old 06-10-2013, 12:24 AM   #1
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fiberglass repairs - old patch or new?

I had to cut out some flying bridge fiberglass pieces along the brow to access some bad wood and affect repairs ( 5"x24")...now I am thinking it might be easier to use the old piece I cut out...cleaned and rough sanded for bonding...to put back into place as it is the right curvature and shape and might make fairing easier than trying to use fg material and fair that out. what do you fiberglass experts think? obviously I am a rookie at this but i have had great luck with west systems fillers so far and and an feeling kind of cocky... I dont think there is any structural stresses here..just the usual vibrations of diesel travel on a hopefully calm sea...
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:58 AM   #2
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I would agree...if non structural...use the old and epoxy it in (or good vinyester) ...then fair. Usually much easier than creating your own shape and total fairing.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:13 AM   #3
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I would use the old pieces but I would use polyester resin. It's the easiest to sand and fair. There are several polyester glazing putties that make the final surface easier to get to (smother) than with epoxies. There are also fewer potential bonding issues with gel-coat for the final finish by using polyester.

On-line Product Catalog:*Putty-CoteŽ
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:24 AM   #4
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thanks guys, I feel better about the whole thing now...hope to get r done today
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:03 AM   #5
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For most of the repairs I have done I tried to use the old pieces if possible. To make plywood bend pliable rip/cut grooves, install and then fill the grooves with epoxy with additive into a past. Make sure you baffle the edges at least 45 degrees and wide so the epoxy has something to stick to. I use West System, #4 additive for structure and #7 for fairing as its easier to sand and blend.

I am presently repainting the Portuguese bridge and the port side, and as usually there are some areas that need sanding and filling again, also there are some areas that calking seems to fail so use epoxy in those areas also. Nine months of rain seems to find that tiny areas that will fail. Its usually the caulking that fails first not the paint/varnish. I only use 3M 5200 quick dry and mix the epoxy hot, so I do not loose a day/days for the stuff to dry.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:39 AM   #6
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I would use the old pieces but I would use polyester resin. It's the easiest to sand and fair. There are several polyester glazing putties that make the final surface easier to get to (smother) than with epoxies. There are also fewer potential bonding issues with gel-coat for the final finish by using polyester.

[url=http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7000000_nid=QXSVL0D GR1beS38K15:On-line Product Catalog:*Putty-CoteŽ[/url]
So I should use this for the gouge in the side (about 8"long, 1/2" wide and 1/4" deep??

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Old 06-10-2013, 04:24 PM   #7
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So I should use this for the gouge in the side (about 8"long, 1/2" wide and 1/4" deep??

Richard
No. You have to repair the gouge first. Then the putty. Glazing putty is used to fill the small pinholes, sanding scratches, etc. It used as the final filler over a repaired area before the primer or gel-coat.

Maybe talk to a local glass guy about repairing your gouge. Since it's on the side of your hull you want it done correctly. Fairing/blending in a repair on a flat surface can be a challenge at best.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:29 PM   #8
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So I should use this for the gouge in the side (about 8"long, 1/2" wide and 1/4" deep??

Richard
If you are going to gel....you could just build a 1/4 inch gouge up with gel and polish out.

Get the gel (or at least color number spec/number) from the manufacturer.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:31 PM   #9
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Sand the gouge with 60 grit and smooth the edges. Then mix West System Epoxy with #4 additive into a peanut butter past to fill the gouge, sand smooth and if still some small spots use #7 low density filler additive as is finer and easier to sand, prime, and gloss coat. I use the fast hardener with additives.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:26 PM   #10
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well my buddy and I had a go at this today and thanks to your advice we used the old pieces. feathered the edges all round back 1 to 1.5 in. and filled with west systems and fiberglass topping. that will be sanded and west systems again over top and the entire brow filled and faired along the entire length. Goodbye leaks!!
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:02 PM   #11
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Man that looks tight great job.I just purchased a 49 ft that has the same problem all the way around the top just like that.also around the windows.and a couple walls.but the hull is good and it floats.you gave me hope on what needs to be done.interest ed in a job? Thanks capt.wrong way.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:55 AM   #12
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Hey there.ya thinking I can just go over the old to seal it.thanks Ron
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:14 AM   #13
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well my buddy and I had a go at this today and thanks to your advice we used the old pieces. feathered the edges all round back 1 to 1.5 in. and filled with west systems and fiberglass topping. that will be sanded and west systems again over top and the entire brow filled and faired along the entire length. Goodbye leaks!!


looks good. It looks ugly now but after sanding, fairing and paint nobody will notice.

The down side is now you have an area all clean and bright so now you need to paint the whole boat to match.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:18 PM   #14
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haven't been here for a while Ron as have been doing this job since march and have just this week taken her to a pro for the top coating on the new upper fiberglass deck. we took the teak deck off as it was also suspect. and we found holes under it and some other badly or only partially done older repairs...no!!...do not just seal over it...that's a temporary fix at best and a mess to clean out again. If you love the boat and have the time and skill fix it properly. I found original construction faults that were probably a good idea in 1977 but over time did not last..now repaired better than new. I still have not done the final coatings over repaired fb from the pic as I transferred priority to the deck due to weather considerations. I have been blessed by the weather gods this summer as far as work goes. I have to say I went looking for trouble and found it but do not regret - will never regret- doing the job properly. It was not difficult for anyone with moderate carpentry skills and lots of time. Be brutal when digging out the rot and be sure to get it all...its painful to cut your boat up like that but bite the bullet and get to it! When I have more time I plan to publish an album and narrative here for others in hopes it might help as I am sure there are many like mine and yours out there. if you want more pics now send me your email
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:23 AM   #15
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haven't been here for a while Ron as have been doing this job since march and have just this week taken her to a pro for the top coating on the new upper fiberglass deck. we took the teak deck off as it was also suspect. and we found holes under it and some other badly or only partially done older repairs...no!!...do not just seal over it...that's a temporary fix at best and a mess to clean out again. If you love the boat and have the time and skill fix it properly. I found original construction faults that were probably a good idea in 1977 but over time did not last..now repaired better than new. I still have not done the final coatings over repaired fb from the pic as I transferred priority to the deck due to weather considerations. I have been blessed by the weather gods this summer as far as work goes. I have to say I went looking for trouble and found it but do not regret - will never regret- doing the job properly. It was not difficult for anyone with moderate carpentry skills and lots of time. Be brutal when digging out the rot and be sure to get it all...its painful to cut your boat up like that but bite the bullet and get to it! When I have more time I plan to publish an album and narrative here for others in hopes it might help as I am sure there are many like mine and yours out there. if you want more pics now send me your email
Ok you are right I have 6k to put into it .that should cover it.email is stanko4jc@Yahoo. Com
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