Farrell Trawler Rebuild Project

[PNW Drifter]

All tapped out... i love the look of brass in the morning

Every job on a boat takes three times longer than you think it will, but the seacocks were an exception. They took four times longer.



Still, the harder the work, the greater the satisfaction. Hoses on.



Just gotta snug up the clamps, and then hook up the raw water heat exchanger discharge hose.

 

[PNW Drifter]

Almost there, well, for a bare bones sea trial only at least. Still to do:Bilge pumps, antennas, some wiring, zincs, some random epoxy work, and bottom paint. So much more work left to finish the boat, but that’s what next winter is for. And when will I be finished?

Might do the bottom paint outside, and that means getting the boat out of the workshop. That’s going to be interesting.:

 

[O C Diver]

I must be missing something. The bottom pic in post #241, are those 2 seacocks running 2 a tee?

Ted

 

[ben2go]

I'm with Ted. I'm a bit confused on the hose routing to what appears to be a T.


What was wrong with your old seacocks and thru hulls?

 

[PNW Drifter]

Ted and Ben2go, thanks for asking these questions.

I haven't changed any through hull locations from what was before, and I haven't changed the raw water configuration from what the boat had before I bought it.

The reason for new (and obviously an expen$e) seacocks is that one of the two engine feed seacocks had seized. I learned this after removing it during the teardown of the boat. Given that they were all the same vintage, I might as well replace them all, while I'm doing it.

So I'm glad you asked, because is it normal to have 2 into 1 tee'd raw water inlet to feed the impeller and heat exchanger? The boat came this way, and I'm just replacing the components, and not changing the configuration.

You've both flagged the tee. Should it be done differently?

 

[ben2go]

I'm not sure if it should be done differently. I've just never seen it done that way before. My theory on two seacocks is one will provide water if the other clogs. Usually, there is a sea strainer attached pretty close to or on the seacock. That would trap any debris that gets sucked in before it made its way through the system and into the engine or other systems.

 

[PNW Drifter]

There is an raw water intake grate/scoop on the outside/bottom of the boat, on the other side of the seacock.

Kinda like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Bronze-Thru-Hull-Scoop-Strainer/dp/B001443JBS

After the tee, and after impeller/pump there is a fine mesh strainer, and after that feeds into heat exchanger.

 

[Ted]

Pickups appear to have the keel between them???
If so, makes sense. A plastic bag won't likely plug both at once.
Same for a kelp frond.

I've had the outside strainer (as shown) plug with jellyfish, was three days
before they deteriorated enough for me to blow them clear.

Ted

 

[Lou_tribal]

I have the same setup, one intake each side of the keel joining to a T then to the pump. I sometimes cruise on shallow water with a lot of grass and it occurred in the past that one of them clogged outside of the hull because of this, glad I have two.

L

 

[O C Diver]

Ted and Ben2go, thanks for asking these questions.

I haven't changed any through hull locations from what was before, and I haven't changed the raw water configuration from what the boat had before I bought it.

The reason for new (and obviously an expen$e) seacocks is that one of the two engine feed seacocks had seized. I learned this after removing it during the teardown of the boat. Given that they were all the same vintage, I might as well replace them all, while I'm doing it.

So I'm glad you asked, because is it normal to have 2 into 1 tee'd raw water inlet to feed the impeller and heat exchanger? The boat came this way, and I'm just replacing the components, and not changing the configuration.

You've both flagged the tee. Should it be done differently?

I've never seen it done that way either. Playing devil's advocate, 2 of everything gives you twice the failure points. See no reason it shouldn't work.

Important question: Are all the hose barb nipples and the tee marine grade bronze?

Ted

 

[PNW Drifter]

Thanks for reply to the thread and your comments.

Ted Ted - yes, a keel between the two

Lou - ok, good to know that my setup isn't unusual

OC Ted - Ironic that redundant systems have twice the failure points!

Pretty sure its marine bronze, because those nipples/tee are old old old, and haven't deteriorated over the years (just the surface discolouration). I only replaced the actual valves because one of them had seized. If the PO (and me too - but I wasn't aware at the time) had greased them (there is a fitting for that), it wouldn't have seized.

 

[O C Diver]

OC Ted - Ironic that redundant systems have twice the failure points!

Actually, it has more than twice the failure points.

If you find yourself in this situation again, install a scoopless through hull and add one of these over it.



Ted

 

[Lou_tribal]

Thanks for reply to the thread and your comments.

Ted Ted - yes, a keel between the two

Lou - ok, good to know that my setup isn't unusual

OC Ted - Ironic that redundant systems have twice the failure points!

Pretty sure its marine bronze, because those nipples/tee are old old old, and haven't deteriorated over the years (just the surface discolouration). I only replaced the actual valves because one of them had seized. If the PO (and me too - but I wasn't aware at the time) had greased them (there is a fitting for that), it wouldn't have seized.

I would not say it isn't unusual as my boat is not really usual, especially when I listen to some insurance surveyor I won't name lol.
In my case the risk for one to be clogged by a thick pad of grass is higher than to break so the choice.

L

 

[PNW Drifter]

Actually, it has more than twice the failure points.

If you find yourself in this situation again, install a scoopless through hull and add one of these over it.

View attachment 91068

Ted

I like it!

 

[PNW Drifter]

Yes, still working on it.

Not much to show as I've spent time on bilge pump wiring. its hard to get excited about seeing wires go to bilge pumps and that sort of thing. Let me know if you want pictures of that! :lol:

So heres my radar mast:








I rounded the corners, and installed the dome (Furuno DRS4W) , and the anchor light, and the Garmin GPS antenna. Still space for another item. The radar reflector - was going to be attached to the main pipe, but I felt it had enough on its plate. So on its own little mini-mast. Might change it up at some point.

Its ready to be installed when the boat is out of the workshop.

And that is going to happen very soon! I have to clear out the junk around the boat, and build another gantry for the 2nd chain hoist. I'll have two hoists so I can suspend the boat and back the trailer underneath.

Boat may only be in the water for a month, so I'm currently debating the value/effort/utility of new bottom paint, and if I want to be bothered with that, or just get it in the water and start having some boating fun.

 

[OldDan1943]

Boat may only be in the water for a month, so I'm currently debating the value/effort/utility of new bottom paint, and if I want to be bothered with that, or just get it in the water and start having some boating fun.

How old and the condition of the bottom paint?
I sort of doubt if the current paint will be a problem.
Go have fun.

 

[PNW Drifter]

The existing bottom paint isn't in the greatest shape.

I'd like to do it properly, when I actually get to it, and sand it down, and barrier coat it and all that.

If wee beasties grow, I have a pressure washer, and I'm going to be sanding anyway.....

 

[ben2go]

Yes, still working on it.

Not much to show as I've spent time on bilge pump wiring. its hard to get excited about seeing wires go to bilge pumps and that sort of thing. Let me know if you want pictures of that! :lol:

So heres my radar mast:
View attachment 91402

View attachment 91403

View attachment 91404

View attachment 91405

I rounded the corners, and installed the dome (Furuno DRS4W) , and the anchor light, and the Garmin GPS antenna. Still space for another item. The radar reflector - was going to be attached to the main pipe, but I felt it had enough on its plate. So on its own little mini-mast. Might change it up at some point.

Its ready to be installed when the boat is out of the workshop.

And that is going to happen very soon! I have to clear out the junk around the boat, and build another gantry for the 2nd chain hoist. I'll have two hoists so I can suspend the boat and back the trailer underneath.

Boat may only be in the water for a month, so I'm currently debating the value/effort/utility of new bottom paint, and if I want to be bothered with that, or just get it in the water and start having some boating fun.

Will the reflector cause issues being that close to your radar? I thought most boats put the reflector well above the radar dome.



I'm planning for radar, even if I don't install it right away. I will have a radar reflector because wood doesn't reflect radar waves so well.

 

[PNW Drifter]

Thanks for replying, ben2go.

Now you have me wondering if my aluminized fibreglass will reflect radar, and maybe I won't even need the reflector thing (which aren't the greatest from what I've read)

Apparently most marine radars (for consumers) have very narrow beam (12 degrees) emanating from the dome, and the reflector as I have it should be completely out of the path.

If I see weird stuff on the display (my ipad/iphone) I can remove the reflector (just unscrews) and see if that makes a difference.

 

[PNW Drifter]

My boat whole boat is made out of this stuff....

"Chaff and flares are defensive mechanisms employed from military aircrafi to avoid detection and/or attack by adversary air defense systems. Chaff consists of small fibers that reflect radar signals and, when dispensed in large quantities from aircraft, form a cloud that temporarily hides the aircraft from radar detection. The two major types of military chaff in use are aluminum foil and aluminum-coated glass fibers. The aluminum foil-type is no longer manufactured, although it may still be in use."

chaff projectiles


Interesting, I could be on to something.....

 

[stubones99]

My boat whole boat is made out of this stuff....

"Chaff and flares are defensive mechanisms employed from military aircrafi to avoid detection and/or attack by adversary air defense systems. Chaff consists of small fibers that reflect radar signals and, when dispensed in large quantities from aircraft, form a cloud that temporarily hides the aircraft from radar detection. The two major types of military chaff in use are aluminum foil and aluminum-coated glass fibers. The aluminum foil-type is no longer manufactured, although it may still be in use."

chaff projectiles
View attachment 91460

Interesting, I could be on to something.....

Were the chaff strips embedded in the fiberglass while the boat was made?

No, you won't detect any difference between the radar reflector if it is above or below the beam. The radar beam is too tight for a side lobe to be reflected back to the receiver antenna.

If you made the mast light extension out of fiberglass, you would minimize your stern shadow caused by the current metal tubing. You will still need two or more conductors to supply power for the light(s) so you'll always have some type of shadow. The closer the conductor or tubing for the mounting the light is to the emitter, the bigger your radar shadow will be.

 

[O C Diver]

Not sure your radar reflector will be that useful so close to the cabin roof. Flying it on a removable mast (pole) well above the radar, might be more beneficial for ships seeing you in the fog at greater distance. This is often done on sailboats.

Ted

 

[stubones99]

If his hull has chaff infused in the fiberglass, he may not need the reflector. The higher it is, the longer effective range, but 5 miles out is about all anyone needs to cover.

 

[O C Diver]

If his hull has chaff infused in the fiberglass, he may not need the reflector. The higher it is, the longer effective range, but 5 miles out is about all anyone needs to cover.

5 miles is only 15 minutes at freighter speed (20 knots). By the time they figure out you aren't or can't move out of his way, there may be very little he can do to avoid you. A lot more goes into collision avoidance. Being seen 30 minutes to an hour before, dramatically improves options.

Ted

 

[stubones99]

If the reflector is held head high on a guy standing in a canoe, that's 4-5 miles visibility.
The bigger the ship, the higher their radar, adding to their distance horizon with their radar as well as visibility. With each vessel raising the radar or radar reflector, the distance increases.
The bigger issue on a bigger ship is having someone at the wheel watching the scopes and horizon.

 

[OldDan1943]

With RADAR one can only see to the horizon.
On a small boat that we all generally own, if I recall correctly, about 2-3 mile is the extent of our RADAR

Okay, let the criticism begin. CHUCKLE

 

[ben2go]

That is interesting. Your boat may light up like the 4th on radar.

 

[PNW Drifter]

https://materialdistrict.com/material/barracuda-aluminized-fabric/

My boat is sheathed in aluminized fibreglass (which is what chaff is). I'd really like to test how reflective the boat is compared to others.

The ball is essentially the same height as the radar, from what i've read of the radar (and reflectors) is that as you increase the height, range increases but its not proportional. The gain is progressively less the higher you go.

5 miles range will be plenty for me.

 

[PNW Drifter]

Getting ready.



Cleaning up underneath.



Rear gantry.



Front gantry.


Starting to hoist the stern.



Rear gantry. Not sure why it’s sideways.....



Hoisted. Oh boy, feel the excitement. Crushed one of my fluorescent light fixtures, but I don’t care



I’m shaking....she’s going to be a tight squeeze.....


Damn I love the front deck arch. That’s a badass curve.



(Pause for dramatic effect)......

 

[ben2go]