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Old 09-12-2018, 09:01 AM   #41
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Weirdo lol ;-)





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Fixed.

Thanks.
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Old 09-16-2018, 12:11 AM   #42
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setting up supports to hold templates for floor timbers
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templates - Tried OSB first, but then used cardboard
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lining them up to maximize use of a sheet of plywood
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"floor timbers"
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Old 09-16-2018, 11:14 AM   #43
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Good work. I assume you will brace between them and use a center hatch cover to access the mechanicals.
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Old 09-22-2018, 07:15 PM   #44
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Epoxy filleted into place. All bare wood is getting epoxied. My filleting skills will get better....

The holes are just to look cool....
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Old 09-22-2018, 08:06 PM   #45
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The holes are just to look cool....
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More than just looking cool, they are conduits to run electrical and plumbig through.
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Old 09-22-2018, 08:56 PM   #46
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Nice work.
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:25 PM   #47
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I'm putting insulation in only because for under the floor it's my only chance to do so, and its not a big effort/cost. I'm not sure if I actually would insulate the rest of the boat.
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After reviewing how much marine plywood I ordered from WestWind, it was clear that I didn't have enough, and I cheaped out and bought "normal" (not marine) plywood for the main cabin and back deck floors. A bit of a regret maybe (oh, the shame!), but I justified to myself that it wasn't that big of a deal as true (and nice looking) marine plywood isn't really needed for these two applications. By buying local plywood, I could progress further before needing another order (and costly shipping), and would be able to better assess my needs as I would be further along....

Cardboard templating in progress!
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I have deck.
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Hatches. Simple. Removable. Easy access.
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Gunnel tanks
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:50 PM   #48
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Hi there,

Are you going to keep it in the water over winter when you're finished, or are you going to haul it back to your shed for the winters?

I ask because when winter temperatures drop to -15C or so in Kitimat, the warmth of the Pacific Ocean compared to the air radiates quite a bit of heat through the hull into the engine room. So much so that the PO of our boat said he never heated the engine room in winter...I thought that was way crazy, so have put heat down there, just in case.

It seems the areas which radiate the most cold are hull sides above the water, and decks.

Nice to have a blank slate where you can do what you want!!

Wonder how they insulate boats in Iceland or Norway...
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Old 10-02-2018, 11:20 PM   #49
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Hi MurrayM.

Good question. I'm thinking I would get a trailer and haul it back every winter. The issue is that the boat is big enough that it may not be a straightforward process of just backing the trailer into the workshop. Also, a trailer for this size boat isn't cheap - not sure if this is the direction I want to go, but we shall see.

My crystal ball calculations are starting to show that I may need to do strange things to get the completed boat out of the workshop. But being able to fuss over a boat in the winter whilst in a warm dry environment is tempting.


I have had this boat (prior to this project) moored over the winter (at Port Edward), without a heater (and no shore power either!) . If I did moor it over the winter now, I'd certainly consider some heat/dehumidification.
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:18 AM   #50
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front deck

The original deck was flat, and poorly secured by the center post. The deck flexed/wiggled when walked on, and the flexing prevented a watertight seal by the centre support (anchor line) post.

Arching the deck gives better rigidity, strength, provides more headroom, and of course, curves look boaty/sexy.
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There was still some very slight deck movement (rotational on boat long axis), so I put additional bracing. More support will be provided by additional work progress.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:50 PM   #51
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Aluminum frame for the engine. This will allow me to work around it (and walk over it) and might be a good thing to attach sound damping to as well.
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Template of the side of the boat for the front bulkhead.
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Fitting
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:23 PM   #52
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progress report

both fore bulkheads in position
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laser level on duty....
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:31 PM   #53
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update #x

This fibreglass piece was recycled/repurposed from the old version of the boat, and now is the front of the fore cabin. Still not quite in the right place, but getting there.....
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What you can't see is a frame holding this in place until it gets epoxied into place.
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:34 PM   #54
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Anchor and windlass mounting pads.

In hindsight, these could and should have gone on after the foredeck had been glassed.

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Old 11-02-2018, 06:42 PM   #55
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progress report x+1 = y

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Old 11-17-2018, 05:53 PM   #56
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Epoxy/filet front deck
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Joining up to the front bulkhead
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:11 PM   #57
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Pretty happy with how this is coming together. Not enough crown on the peak tho. I'll add something to have more curve for the roof....
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This is some insulation which I can only get to at this point, so there it is.
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Covering it with cabinet maker pine plywood. Weak, but light. Aft of the post is a hatch to access anchor rope and a possible future bow thruster.
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Front cabin floor timbers....
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...are coming along nicely....
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...and getting insulation.....
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And getting a nice Joubert Okume marine ply floor. The x-wise sticks are "clamps" to hold the floor hatch rails in place while the epoxy cures.
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:36 PM   #58
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Greetings,
Mr. PNW. Nicely done. The best is you're working with a clean slate and you don't have to work around other people's ideas/"improvements". My ONLY concern, at this point, is that you may not be allowing for enough ventilation in those sub-deck areas. Any pockets of damp stagnant air will be prime breeding spots for mold and mildew and if sealed, will be impossible to clean. Just a thought...
Good idea for the "clamps".
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:36 PM   #59
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PNW,
Great effort so far, keep it up! I hate to see you lose valuable storage area’s with the foam and concur with Mr. RTF about ventilation.
Gonna make some popcorn and another cocktail, this series is getting good!
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Old 12-11-2018, 07:52 PM   #60
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Hey RT and Crusty, thanks for your interest and comments. The positive feedback on my work so far helps further motivate me!

The concern of adequate ventilation is noted, and I will add some form of venting for the enclosed spaces. I've read that this is an often overlooked subject, particularly with engine room spaces, as engines need air to combust, and often engines can be starving for air.
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