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Old 06-21-2019, 07:24 AM   #221
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Greetings,
Mr. PNW. Also a couple of observations...


Main anchor cleat attachment-overkill? Not at all. Bigger is better IMO.


When you're using spade connectors you might consider a fully shielded type. I've used the M/F's for light fixtures that may have to be removed. A dab of dielectric grease keeps them water resistant.





Where a light fixture is polarity sensitive (LED's) I've staggered the connections.



Feed: +'ve = male/ Fixture: -'ve = male

Feed: -'ve = female/ Fixture: +'ve = female


I've also taken to using liquid electrical tape instead of heat shrink for some applications. More water tight IMO but hellish messy.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:35 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O C Diver View Post
Couple of observations:

Just trying to be a PIA.

Ted
Hi Ted, I appreciate that you acknowledge that commenting on someone else's wiring could result in psychological trauma and/or fits of rage.

I do have wiring loom that I will be cutting into small sections for the bulkheads. This would be an ABYC requirement. ABYC requires that cables need to be supported every 18". I'll do that too, once I'm satisfied that I don't need to change the cable locations.

I'm wiring as I go, taking pictures as I go. Looms and cable ties come at the end.

To make this more fun and educational for everyone, I'm asking that anyone commenting on the wiring please quote ABYC regulations (where applicable). For example, what does ABYC say for maximum cable run length from battery to starter motor? I know the answer but I'm not giving it away!

What does ABYC say for fuse location? I believe I'm in compliance thus far, but please quote ABYC to prove me noncompliant!

I do appreciate all the observations and comments. I want my wiring to be safe.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:41 AM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. PNW. Also a couple of observations...


Main anchor cleat attachment-overkill? Not at all. Bigger is better IMO.


When you're using spade connectors you might consider a fully shielded type. I've used the M/F's for light fixtures that may have to be removed. A dab of dielectric grease keeps them water resistant.




Where a light fixture is polarity sensitive (LED's) I've staggered the connections.



Feed: +'ve = male/ Fixture: -'ve = male

Feed: -'ve = female/ Fixture: +'ve = female


I've also taken to using liquid electrical tape instead of heat shrink for some applications. More water tight IMO but hellish messy.

I couldn't find fully shielded spade connectors in my small town. Good point tho.

I like your staggered connection idea. Where I can, I'm trying to keep exposed positive and negative away from each other.

When wiring is completed, I will go back and clean/dielectric grease all the connections. I make changes as I go, because I'm not sure of the routing, and if I put grease now, and then change, the grease starts picking up dust etc. So I'm leaving that to the end when I'm satisfied the routing won't change.
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:08 AM   #224
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Greetings,
Mr. PNW. "I couldn't find fully shielded spade connectors in my small town."


Canadian Tire on Hwy 16 West...aisle 9.


https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/c...6973p.html#srp
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Old 06-21-2019, 11:11 AM   #225
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If I can dare my 2 cents about battery cables, last year I made some too using the same tools. I used liquid tape on the limit withe crimped end and the wire then electric tape around it so to seal it ( or heat shrink in place of tape).

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Old 06-21-2019, 12:55 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW Drifter View Post
To make this more fun and educational for everyone, I'm asking that anyone commenting on the wiring please quote ABYC regulations (where applicable). For example, what does ABYC say for maximum cable run length from battery to starter motor? I know the answer but I'm not giving it away!

What does ABYC say for fuse location? I believe I'm in compliance thus far, but please quote ABYC to prove me noncompliant!

I do appreciate all the observations and comments. I want my wiring to be safe.
Best not to confuse me with someone who follows ABYC. Simply, I feel they set arbitrary standards to suit their members, in many cases not stringent enough. When it comes to battery cables to engine, IMO, 3' is getting really long.

Ted
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:25 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. PNW. "I couldn't find fully shielded spade connectors in my small town."


Canadian Tire on Hwy 16 West...aisle 9.


https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/c...6973p.html#srp
That's hilarious

Got some spare time on your hands today?

*Thanks for the tip...I'm going there this weekend
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:39 PM   #228
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That's hilarious

Got some spare time on your hands today?

*Thanks for the tip...I'm going there this weekend
Might want to call ahead and reserve designated amount.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:49 PM   #229
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Canadian Tire on Hwy 16 West...aisle 9.
This is the kind of support that I've come to expect from members of TF.

EDIT: I only needed 6, so I didn't consider the larger package.

Quote:
Originally Posted by O C Diver View Post
I feel they set arbitrary standards to suit their members, in many cases not stringent enough. When it comes to battery cables to engine, IMO, 3' is getting really long.

Ted
Ok, you don't have to quote ABYC!

I agree about ABYC being arbitrary in many cases, sometimes overkill, and sometimes curious, when you can have an unlimited length, provided it goes to the engine cranking motor.

Whats also interesting is that any "battery relocation kit" I've ever seen has never included a main fuse or breaker.

I couldn't believe the ABYC standard either, and bought a 750amp ANL fuse and holder. I returned it when I realized I didn't want anything that could fail between my battery and my starter.

In terms of (any) cable length, its about voltage drop - the more the current, the more the drop, and thus longer cables require thicker gauge. I'm using 4/0 (largest that I could find) as my main run (~20 feet), and if I draw 500 amps, I'll have less than 10% drop. The engine starter might draw more than 500 for a split second at start up, but should be less after a second, and still lower when the starter is turning continuously.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:52 PM   #230
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Originally Posted by PNW Drifter View Post
I like your staggered connection idea. Where I can, I'm trying to keep exposed positive and negative away from each other.
Exposed positive touches metal = big spark.

I buy spade connectors on Amazon. Most female are shielded. Male can be bare, so I use the female as feed pos.
Probably simpler to buy all shielded but I have a bagful of unshielded males.

I generally cut pos an inch or so shorter than neg. Crimped conn have a habit of pulling out when you tug on them and offset cut prevents a potential short.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:58 PM   #231
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I always give each crimp connection a good heavy pull after crimping it. A good crimp should not pull out. If it is going to pull out I want it to do so while I am still working on it.
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Old 07-07-2019, 10:49 AM   #232
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Most female are shielded, so I use the female as feed pos. I generally cut pos an inch or so shorter than neg. Crimped conn have a habit of pulling out when you tug on them and offset cut prevents a potential short.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
I always give each crimp connection a good heavy pull after crimping it. A good crimp should not pull out. If it is going to pull out I want it to do so while I am still working on it.
This is good advice.

So back to posting pictures of progress... and happy 4th of July weekend! And belated happy Canada day too. I have been slowing down, on the account of my workshop getting hotter (more tiring to work inside), and the rather nice outside weather we are having. And some other commitments......

Rear controls. Previous installation for transmission was not best practice (bizarre unadjustable push/pull instead of parallel), and the previous owner drilled extra holes beyond the normal adjustment range slots because they didn't do it properly. It worked for them, but when I reinstalled their way, I couldn't get reverse. Argh.... more time to get it set up correctly...... as per Morse recommendation.
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Cabinetry for rear station. Down rigger is going in.
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Starboard battery boxes.
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Port battery boxes. Vents on both sides vent the entire boat, mini lazarette storage, and battery boxes. It's blower hose, and may need to have protection from fish hooks, wayward halibut, and things......
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Grounding. Grounding the propshaft supports, fuel fills, and rudder stanchion.
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Close up. Cleaned up the brass (or is it bronze?) for good connection.
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Close up of rear helm.
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Copper helm pipe and Racor in the port helm bench.
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Air scoop intake for engine box. I realize the aluminum flex pipe doesn't quite match the boat, but I'll figure out more pleasing aesthetics later. Right now its about venting, venting, and venting.
I've spent so much time building vents that I feel I've built a large vented enclosure that happens to float and contain a propulsion system.
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Feeding that cold air straight to the air intake filter.
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Old 07-07-2019, 11:10 AM   #233
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Sliding door bottom groove. Its adjustable, and replaceable if anything rots or wears out without violating the main house structure in any future repair. This door slides very nicely with a good solid feel. Very happy with how it turned out.
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Quite possibly the ugliest part of the boat. Here is the $200 chinese made diesel heater. Works great, but the installation instructions weren't the best.
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Heater air intake. Probably the second ugliest part - will come up with something nicer looking later. I decided to pull from inside, for now, but may add an option to choose inside vs outside.
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Helm station. I'm making it up as I go along (just like the whole entire project!). This could be subject to change at some later date.
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Boat builder picture.
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Anchor rode locker, and two bilge pumps going in. A big and a small (which is hiding behind the big one) for the front, and another good sized one will be at the back.
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I'm really wanting to get it into the water for early August. The clock is ticking. Gotta get on it!
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Old 07-07-2019, 11:20 AM   #234
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impressive amount of work you have done in a short time. Looks great
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Old 07-07-2019, 07:25 PM   #235
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Really digging the detail work. If you have a small porthole or just bump open a window opposite of that type heater will help air circulate through the boat a bit better. Combustion air needs to come from outside the boat and not thru the bilge.
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:49 AM   #236
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Bulge pump testing. Those two passed. My small automatic didnít, probably gummed up and from sitting too long. Impeller was not spinning freely.
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Backing for the sea-cocks. Iím cutting new ones. The old ones werenít well cut, especially where it matters (inside hole), so here is an opportunity (again) to do it right compared to how it was before.
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One of the two rear bilge vents.
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Port side LED nav light.
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Used panorama mode to try to capture what the whole boat looks like. Itís difficult because I canít get enough distance (inside a workshop) to get a proper perspective shot.
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Old 07-12-2019, 04:23 PM   #237
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Radar mast. I cut the pieces from aluminum recycled from the boats old fuel tank and rails. $80 Canadian to get it welded. Before you say that the mast doesnít look strong enough, consider that my boat is slow, and the radar only weighs 12.5 lbs (average household cat is 11lbs.). Post is 20Ē. Surely that can hold a cat !

I could turn it into a tripod by adding a couple bolt on struts, if I wanted to put more/heavier stuff on it.
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Mock up. Only the radar, anchor light, and maybe a GPS and SiriusXM satellite antenna too. My 8í VHF antenna will mount on a ratchet in a different location
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Radar reflector will mount separately on the same base plate. Sharp corners will be rounded off.

This mast will need to be removed when storing the boat so the design reflects that functionality by keeping it small, light, and simple.
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:44 PM   #238
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Arm chair critic here.

The radar mount should work. Would have preferred 2" or 3" pipe between the first and 2nd plates and 3/4" between the 2nd and 3rd. If you ever have need for marine grade aluminum pipe, in the USA, electrical aluminum conduit (pipe) is marine alloy, sold in 10' lengths with common sizes 3/4", 1", 1.5", 2", 3", 4".

Ted
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:28 AM   #239
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Thanks Ted, certainly the materials felt strong in my hands when cutting the pieces. The OD of the first upright is 1.9".

In any case, I sat on it (and shifted my weight around a little) and I'm 180lbs. Base plate flexed a bit, but that will be bolted down. Strong enough, I'm thinking, but in terms of looks....it just looks skinny. I'll address it sooner, if I think its too weak (will check again after installing), and later if I just want to change/modify for the sake of looks alone. In the boating world, looks are important too. Then again, so is weight and weight distribution. And nothing gained from something being stronger than it needs to be.
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Old 07-15-2019, 12:38 AM   #240
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Seacock Saga - aka the joy of seacocks

My backing plates. They can also help match the seacock surface to the boat if the boat surface is uneven.
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Perfectly round, sized, and centered. Note that the seacock bolt holes don’t triangulate to the geometric center of the valve. I had to mark the orientation. Don’t assume, part one.
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Here’s the big new one, and the big old one. I’m replacing the Buck Algonquin valves with the exact same kind, so all the holes in the boat will line up perfectly, right?
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But they don’t.
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A little disappointing to have the extra holes, but it’s not the end of the world. Don’t assume, part 2.
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Uh-oh, looks like I need a special tool....
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Or, a spare socket, and some time with a die grinder.
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Fits. Part one.
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Fits. Parts two
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Finally, the first one is in. This was the waste discharge. Not sure if I’m going to use it. 3 more to go, a raw water in for what was the toilet flush (not sure about using this either), and two intakes for the raw water that goes to the heat exchanger.
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