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Old 06-14-2014, 07:55 AM   #41
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Thanks Carl.

I was able to use schedule 40 rigid pvc for all my waste lines. I had to get most of it in place early in the build and plan for what pressure fittings I had to use. I'll have a few small pieces of flexible waste line where I turn to fit down in to the holding tank, but those won't be holding effluent as they're vertical. I doubt I'll have more than 3' total flexible pipe.

I have two toilets on board. The lower toilet is a composter, and the salon toilet is a fresh water macerator. The composting toilet is working well, but my wife's not a big fan of it. I like it because it works and is idiot proof. In case it becomes a big issue with the wife, and does not perform as expected once it starts seeing more usage, I had installed an 1 1/2" rigid schedule 40 transport line from the lower toilet to the holding tank early in the build... just in case.

I'm venting the holding tank with 1 1/2" through the roof.

Conall
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:26 PM   #42
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Conall, if you wrap the pipe to the top of the funnel you will not have to worry about heat in the funnel. The wrap I used, even the muffler is cool enough to lay your hand on.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:29 PM   #43
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Where did you get your louvres? I need to replace mine on the funnel and the engine intakes (they are the same size).
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:35 AM   #44
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Xsbank, I found my louvers from this outfit in Fl.:

Aluminum Louvers | Architectural Louvers and Louver Vents

Fast service, good quality.

Wrapping the pipe at the funnel sounds good. The place that sold me my turbo blanket also carries 2" exhaust wrap which I bought a role of to make the transition from the turbo to the flange. I'll have plenty left over for a wrap elsewhere.

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Old 06-15-2014, 12:55 PM   #45
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Thanks Conall, that louvre place is the bee's knees! My engine intakes are all corroded and look like cr@p, these replacements will be excellent.

It looks like you have welded the exhaust pipe to the funnel top, is that the actual pipe or an extension of the funnel? Welding the pipe to the funnel would be a mistake as it would transmit too much noise and vibration to the hull.
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Old 06-15-2014, 05:25 PM   #46
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I have a 12" piece welded to the funnel top. I'd not thought about vibration.

Thanks for the insight. That's going to be one of the wait and see items and adjust as needed.

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Old 06-15-2014, 08:23 PM   #47
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I spent this weekend welding on anode studs, and scuffing the bottom for anti foul, then coating her with two coats of anti foul.

Tough way to spend two days, but at least it's off my list.

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Old 06-15-2014, 09:35 PM   #48
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Fine work, Conall! I'm a little confused about your steering. Does it only work when the engine is running? If it does, I can't determine if that is a bad thing or not.
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:52 AM   #49
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I've not tried to operate the rudder with the engine off. I don't think it will work as the pump is run by the engine unlike some boats where the pump is run by the steering wheel. If we do loose steering, with the engine operating, the top of the rudder is squared off for an emergency tiller.

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Old 06-16-2014, 07:43 AM   #50
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Why not try a piece of silicone rubber flexible coupler in your exhaust pipe to reduce vibration. It will save you some work, and will be relatively easy to cut a section of pipe out and do the insert. Worth looking into
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:20 PM   #51
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With a launch date in late July fast approaching I had to get the finish flooring down in the salon and wheel house. I've held off as long as I could, but had to get it done. Below deck, in the cabins, will be carpet, and I'm going to wait until after we launch before I even think about installing that flooring ( wife wants something other than carpet, so that's in negotiation). The salon and wheel house got a Cork floor with a foam underlayment. It's sure nice to see more finish work starting to come together.

My heavy soled work boots with the accompanying mud and gravel are probably a thing of the past.

Conall
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:29 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conall63 View Post
With a launch date in late July fast approaching I had to get the finish flooring down in the salon and wheel house. I've held off as long as I could, but had to get it done. Below deck, in the cabins, will be carpet, and I'm going to wait until after we launch before I even think about installing that flooring ( wife wants something other than carpet, so that's in negotiation). The salon and wheel house got a Cork floor with a foam underlayment. It's sure nice to see more finish work starting to come together.

My heavy soled work boots with the accompanying mud and gravel are probably a thing of the past.

Conall
Exciting time, Conall. Congratulations!
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:51 PM   #53
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Conall,you are my boat building hee row.I am planning to build Spira International Sitka to 30' with a vee entry bow.It will be my first scratch built big boat from plans.I've built a few knock together canoes and dinghies.The boat in my avatar is a 27' foot light built with minimal gear and creature comforts.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:08 AM   #54
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You sir are my hero!
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:13 AM   #55
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Sweet looking Ben2go.

I started melting lead for my ballast ( nothing like waiting until the last minute). The design calls for about 4300 lbs, but due to either me not checking the weight of my purchase of some of it walking off of my property, I'm about 1300 lbs lite. I had dreams of my build ending up like the Northern Marine incident, so a rush has been on to get ingots poured. The Naval architect of my build suggests launching without ballast, and having water and fuel half full, then send measurements and photos on to him and he'll suggest ballast amount. For the pure logistics of loading the ballast, I'd like to have some of it on board while I have access to a fork truck at the boat yard vs moving it down a wooden finger dock.

I made a melting pot out of 12" pipe and am using a back pack blower to force feed the fire. My two molds produce six ingots each, and when the molds are full, they each weigh about 100 lbs. The lead came from the sheathing of an MRI machine. It's one of those jobs that you really can't stop once you start. I should have done this over the winter.

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Old 07-16-2014, 10:51 PM   #56
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Thanks Conall.

I have watched from afar as a group of guys poured a lead keel for a sail boat.It was formed up in the proper shape with with long keel bolt welded or brazed to a long rod to hold them from turning during install.That was a big job.They were using old steel heating oil tanks to melt lead and a huge air compressor with a diesel engine to fan the flames.I'm not sure of the weight but a crane was brought in to set the boat onto the keel.So I see where the ingots would pay off.Easier to get the balance spot on.
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:55 AM   #57
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We launched her on Wednesday, and I for sure could not be more happy.

The wheel house sits forward and the yard could not get the sling where they wanted. The sling was more on the curve of the bow vs the flat, and the operator did not like it. They had the slings positioned wrong, and when they lifted, she swung in to the travel lift and smashed the air horn and bent the bill over the wheel house. It looked worse than it was, and a little persuasion with a rubber mallet will fix her up. The air horns are still working although one is facing south/southwest...cheap $80 horns off of Ebay... I'm not going to raise stink with the boat yard as they've helped me tremendously through my work.

As the designer told me, she sits a little down in the rear. I'm off the water line by two inches aft and looks pretty good forward being 5" above the water line. We loose the water line about 3/4 aft. The swim platform is about 12" above the water line, so that looks good. She has 2300 lbs of the 4000lbs of ballast, about 1/2 her 400 gallon water capacity, and 350 gallons of fuel. The designed fuel capacity is 600 gallons.

The only major issue we have is the engine is running hot. The keel cooling pump is not recirculating. I think the system has an air lock in it. The boat yard guys say our circulating pump on the engine is not big enough and can't overcome the lift. I made no provisions to easily get the air out of the system, so it's going to require a little plumbing. I found a source for an affordable electric coolant pump that I can install inline which should solve the problem. The electric pump will force the air out of the system along with dealing with any lift issues I might have. If this solves the problem, I'll probably end up making a bracket for an engine driven pump to boost the existing engine pump. I'm using the raw water pump gear off of the engine to drive my power steering. I do recall I might be able to buy another housing to piggy back a raw water pump in that location, so I do have some options.

Another guy I get advice from suggested getting a cheap air powered vacuum pump from Harbor Freight and pull a vacuum from my expansion tank to purge out any air. This would be quick and easy way see if it is indeed air locked, but might not solve the problem and put a crimp in our plans for a four day shake down cruise late next week. The boat's finish is more than ready for a shake down cruise, and other than the coolant circulating issue, she has no major issues to correct.

By keeping the rpm's at about 1200, we were able to maintain 190 degree engine temperature, while making about 5 knots, so wed decided to head to our harbor vs returning to the boat yard. It turned out to be a nice two hour cruise on a beautiful late afternoon summer day.

Cheers,

Conall
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:06 AM   #58
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Congratulations Conall. Well done despite the few lil' boo boo's! I'm sure she'll server you proudly for many many years! Enjoy the fruits of your labor!

Cheers!!
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:18 AM   #59
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Quite an achievement, Conall. A great looking boat.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:42 AM   #60
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Congrats!! I'm sure after all that work, see her afloat must be quite a feeling!!
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