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Old 02-14-2014, 11:29 AM   #1
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Bulkhead question for builders

I tore out an exterior bulkhead between my anchor locker bulkhead and my cabin bulkhead. This was an area where line,fenders extra chain and any other junk you don't want rolling around are stored and it's not a structual bulkhead. I tore it out because of some rot. It was made from plywood and solid wood and incapsulated in fiberglass and over half of it rotten and still wet after boat's been under cover for 3 month's .I'm pretty sure it was an afterthought and added after the boat was built .
Anyway I'm buliding it back with teak and plywood and not going to glass it just epoxy coat the plywood and paint it and varnish the teak . My problem is I didn't pay attention to how the old bulkhead was installed meaning was it plumb or was it 90 degrees to the deck or was it something else ? Does it matter or should I just go with what looks right ? Is there any hard fast rules about what is right and wrong. It will have a rail on top of it about the same width as my new rail and should this be parallel with the caprail? I hate to get this done and old shipwright sto by and say "hmmm that ain't right ".
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:35 AM   #2
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Did it seem to be structural? Or just a barrier?

Usually angles matter for structural bulkheads depending on what loads it is supporting.... but perpendicular isn't always a requirement. As long as the angles aren't very acute...good tabbing should transfer the load . Often if structural ,they have (or should have) some cushioning in high flex areas.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:36 AM   #3
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Greetings,
Mr. P. Can't help you with orientation but after sufficient rums the old shipwright might change his comment to "hmmmm that'll work". Keep a couple of quarts on board for just such a contingency.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:50 AM   #4
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In the Carolina boats we would set the bulkheads plumb with vessel on waterline. For no other reason it makes later interior construction simpler. Nothing wrong with a little angle if it looks better. Try to get it at accurate distance from stem on each side, having it cocked that way looks unprofessional.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:50 AM   #5
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psneeld It's just a barrier and not structural . You might can see it in my avatar .
Mr RT,
I do keep the rum on board .That what I was in to when I tore the old one out . My wife is usually there to ask the right questions before I tear something out but she was in the rum herself. I keep plenty on board for when I get on the neighbors nerves with all the heavy work we are doing. While everyone else is busy polishing and and rubbing on their boats we are beating ,banging , sawing ,sanding and swearing .
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:54 AM   #6
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Becoming more popular is pics and or videoing every project you get into...

For me half the time I should review it just to see where I left what tools where...

I would say place it where it looks the best as long as it won't collect water, dirt, strange looks.....
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:25 PM   #7
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Greetings,
Mr. P. Any chance you could post a pic' of where you're talking about?



Is this the bulkhead (vertical) you're talking about or is it aft of this?
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:16 PM   #8
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This one is staying . It is aft of this one . I'm trying send a pic . My windlass will be dumping chain out between these two bulkheads . The forward bulkhead chain storage area was to crowded area to get windlass mounted . I plan on mounting bulkhead up on about 4 pads so that water can run underneath and not be trapped . This is a good area to wash down chain and line . I will have to hand load chain back into locker after .Sorry didn't rotate pic.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:33 PM   #9
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Greetings,
Mr. P. Ah, I See now. I would probably align the new bulkhead parallel to the existing vertical bulkhead I posted and the "cap" piece at the same level and angle as your new cap rail. Or.....you could get all fancy and put in something like this instead of a dull flat piece of ply....


Bwahahahaha.......
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:52 PM   #10
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Greetings,
Mr. P. Ah, I See now. I would probably align the new bulkhead parallel to the existing vertical bulkhead I posted and the "cap" piece at the same level and angle as your new cap rail. Or.....you could get all fancy and put in something like this instead of a dull flat piece of ply....


Bwahahahaha.......
That's nice . Looks like a good spider hangout. I plan on using teak frame with only about 10" piece of ply in the center. My teak lumber pile is getting low .
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:35 PM   #11
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The new bulk head will support the aft end of anchor roller/ windlass platform
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Old 02-15-2014, 10:07 PM   #12
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I agree with RTF. It needs to be the same angle as the front one, which is probably about vertical from the waterline, and you'll certainly need good drainage at the base of it - ? epoxy in a tube into each outer corner..? (? lead drain tube to nearest scupper, if that looked ok - that's what I do with the drains that come down from the aft corners of the flybridge).
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:08 AM   #13
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I agree with RTF. It needs to be the same angle as the front one, which is probably about vertical from the waterline, and you'll certainly need good drainage at the base of it - ? epoxy in a tube into each outer corner..? (? lead drain tube to nearest scupper, if that looked ok - that's what I do with the drains that come down from the aft corners of the flybridge).
Thanks Peter B,
I'm putting the teak base plate for the bulkhead on top of four starboard pads so that it will drain under the base plate.Also I cut the base plate back about 4" on each side from where the deck turns up to the side .The bottom teak frame rail for the bulk head will sit on base plate and have cut out at the bottom on each side where it connects to the sides of the hull. The deck has some camber and this should direct all drainage to the scuppers .
The way it was in before there was only small drainage cut out at each end of base plate and everything was glassed in a fiberglass sandwich . It had some leaks that allowed water to be trapped and when I tore it out last weekend it was a soggy mess.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:07 AM   #14
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PACK MULE: teak work looks as though it was done by BAREFOOT WOODWORKS OF TN. GOOD JOB:
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:04 AM   #15
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Thanks jimbob
If I have to purchase anymore teak I will be barefoot year round
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:03 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pack Mule View Post
The new bulk head will support the aft end of anchor roller/ windlass platform
how about a stainless steel compression/tension post that doubles as the chain path to the anchor rode locker?.. when in doubt trade stainless for teak!
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:32 PM   #17
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how about a stainless steel compression/tension post that doubles as the chain path to the anchor rode locker?.. when in doubt trade stainless for teak!
HOLLYWOOD
Hollywood,that's a good idea. I would like to get the chain in the locker without having to hand feed it .The area between the two bulkheads is a good area to store an extra anchor and fenders( or hooters as we call them) while underway . It would have been better if the bulkhead that was forward had been little further aft and I could have put the windlass there. I might still need to brace the windlass under the platform between the two bulkheads with a stainless brace and maybe it could include a tube for the chain path to the locker.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:45 PM   #18
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Here is a mock up of the beginning of the bulkhead. Needs some heft taken out and and some tweaking .It will have a cap rail on each side of the platform.
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:04 PM   #19
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Hollywood,that's a good idea. I would like to get the chain in the locker without having to hand feed it .The area between the two bulkheads is a good area to store an extra anchor and fenders( or hooters as we call them) while underway . It would have been better if the bulkhead that was forward had been little further aft and I could have put the windlass there. I might still need to brace the windlass under the platform between the two bulkheads with a stainless brace and maybe it could include a tube for the chain path to the locker.
between the rhode weight pushing down on the cantilevered section of the platform and the windless trying to climb up the chain during retrieval there is a fair amount of tension on the rear of the platform. Don't be afraid to think out of the box.. if the chain needs to lead a bit aft the post that carries the chain can be at a shallow angle.
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:44 PM   #20
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Hi PM,
I'm not at that stage in my build yet so have been preparing by doing some research into sizes ect for when that time comes.

I found the below pics that may be of use to you. I'd hate to see you go through all that work and then have the chain bunching up and jamming everything.

With the drain, I plan on running mine straight out the side of the hull and put a hood (midget vent) over it. maybe this could work for you also ... Anywhoo work looks great mate
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