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Old 02-17-2014, 10:04 AM   #21
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Hi PM,
I'm not at that stage in my build yet so have been preparing by doing some research into sizes ect for when that time comes.

I found the below pics that may be of use to you. I'd hate to see you go through all that work and then have the chain bunching up and jamming everything.

With the drain, I plan on running mine straight out the side of the hull and put a hood (midget vent) over it. maybe this could work for you also ... Anywhoo work looks great mate
Thanks Hendo,I have a manual horizontal windlass and my plan for the time being is to just let the chain dump out on the deck between the two bulkheads in the open and either leave it there or hand feed it back in the locker . We normally anchor in around a 12' depth here on the Tennessee River .
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:01 PM   #22
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Bulkhead a little further along.Still more cutting and fitting to do before install.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:31 PM   #23
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Are you going to have any doors so that you can get back in there to untangle a rats nest? Are the sides butted up to the hull or is that a hull liner?
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:10 AM   #24
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The bulkhead is not enclosed and it's not structural .This really just a partition . It's an open area . The chain locker is forward of this about 20" .There was a partition about 6" further aft that had a lot of rot ,so I tore it out . I wanted some more walk around room so I built this one further forward. I can untangle any rats nest from the top . The chain locker has a door in the v berth .I'm attaching the vertical pcs to the side where the deck turns up with screws and 4200 .Then I'm attaching the partition to the bottom plate and to side plate with cleats and screws and adhesive caulk.I should be able to remove it without doing any damage to the area .The previous one was totally glassed in and had rot in the core .All of this will be exposed like on a wood boat with all the surfaces epoxy coated .I'll try to attach a pic of how the hull and deck come together . This was right after I removed the old cap rail .You can see the bulkhead for the chain locker and a part of the old partition before I tore it out.
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:47 AM   #25
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I would examine the old bulkhead to see how tight the fit was.

You do not wish to create a hard spot , a bulkhead that is too stiffly mounted that when the hull flexes it must bend at the bulkhead.

To avoid this a piece of foam between bulkhead and hull will help before glassing in the bulkhead. Glass it only on one side for easier movement.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:28 AM   #26
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Quote:
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I would examine the old bulkhead to see how tight the fit was.

You do not wish to create a hard spot , a bulkhead that is too stiffly mounted that when the hull flexes it must bend at the bulkhead.

To avoid this a piece of foam between bulkhead and hull will help before glassing in the bulkhead. Glass it only on one side for easier movement.
The old one was glassed in the the side.There was not any eaxtra foam added in this area. I think that this bulkhead was added on and not part of the original build. The hull is about 1/2" thick in this area and it has a foam core of about 1/2" with about a 1/4" skin on the inisde were the bulkhead was attached.The red area in the pic is the foam core . I think I will also add a piece of foam between the inner skin and the teak vertical side plate. unless you think the foam core is already enough for the flex .Thanks for pointing that out .
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:26 PM   #27
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When we remodel the Eagle we lined every up by eye, what look best with what was there. If the eye can no caught/see it then its good enough. Besides the trim of the boat is constantly chagning
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:30 PM   #28
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Phil Fill,
I read in some boatbuilding book I think it was George Buehler Backyard Boatbuilding that the chair that you sit in at the end of the day to look at your progress just might be the best tool in the shop. Sometimes as a carpenter and not a boatbuilder it's hard to make it look like it belongs on the boat and not a house.
I sure like the lines on your Roughwater .
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:07 PM   #29
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The first think that you need to do is throw away every framing square that you own. They will just get you in trouble. I went back and looked at the pictures of the cap rail install after I asked about the hull sides and figured out how it was built. I don't think you need to worry about creating a "hard spot' that high up on the hull. As long as you use a solid wood for the cleats where it's fastened to the deck's should last. The cap rail looks top notch.
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:18 AM   #30
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Thanks dsharp. I'm with you on the framing squares. Everything I've have done right now is just dry fitted . It all has to come off and then put back down with caulk . This whole project has been a real challenge .There is not much boat building in my neck of the woods ,mostly it's just house boats that never leave the dock.I build cabinets and furniture for the most part. When it comes to carpentry on a boat I go to books ,wooden boat magazine and this forum.
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