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Old 11-17-2015, 08:04 PM   #21
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I remember the vid too. Very impressive.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:07 AM   #22
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I would like more stopping power overall and the boats pulles hard to starboard if the rudder is not fully over in reverse. If it helps these problems it will be a bonus.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:38 AM   #23
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I agree with the comment about the zinc being in a very wrong place regarding flow to the prop.

Could it be placed at shaft level and narrower and more streamlined?
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Old 11-21-2015, 06:57 PM   #24
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I would fab a tunnel for the prop before I chopped the keel up.
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:51 AM   #25
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Maybe try borrowing a 4 blade prop just to test difference.
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:38 AM   #26
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Damping material: Don't bother with "Silent Running" liquid damping material. It is worthless...
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:59 PM   #27
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Panope was originally built with square dead-wood (dead-metal) just like funangler's boat. As part of a TOTAL power-train replacement, I tapered the dead-wood by slicing the metal horizontally and then pinching the plates together to form a point. Horizontal plating added to close the resulting gaps above and below the aperture.

Unfortunately, I cannot say conclusively that this mod made any difference as I made numerous other changes that could also be responsible for the vastly better motoring experience that the boat now enjoys.

I will say that the previous (square dead-wood) set-up would make those funny gurgling noises at moderate power settings of the old 15 HP engine. Now, the gurgling noises only occur at MAX power of the new 40 HP engine.

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Old 11-22-2015, 01:44 PM   #28
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Steve,
Liked your description of and method of achieving your tapered keel end. Wish my Willard was steel as the method you employed is far simpler than a FG modification.

RE the 4 blade prop I suspect that more (not less) vibration would result. Every time the blades are behind the deadwood 1/2 of the blade area is in the shadow of the dead wood. With a 3 blade only one third of the blade area is in the shadow. Just a theory though.

As can be seen from this pic of Willy's dead wood termination I should benefit to the maximum from a cleanup job.
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Old 11-22-2015, 02:02 PM   #29
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Yea, we found that 4b's often had more vibes than 3b when behind a fat keel. Half the blades in the shadow at a time with 4b, 3b only one at a time. Now if vibes are from tip clearance being tight, that could be better with 4b.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:49 PM   #30
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Better water flow reshaping

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Just need some warm weather to paint. I open the bottom up to clean out and make it able to spray some paint on the back side of the modifications.Click image for larger version

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Old 02-06-2016, 05:52 PM   #31
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WOW ......
Ya did it.
Looks good and no doubt even better w some paint. When will you know if it did any good re vibration or efficiency? I'm kinda thrilled that you did it.

It's a bit of work but not that hard on a steel boat. Went through some rod I'll bet.
Is that prop a Michigan MP series. Looks like you've got plenty of pitch and I like to see that.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:17 PM   #32
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Started with stick and had to switch to a flux core mig welder. Burn through was pushing my mental limits. The boat should go in about mid March. The prop is original from 1984 it 24 diameter with 22 pitch. Transmission is hurth 2:1. I will report back when she floating.
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:19 PM   #33
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Nice work. I like the horizontal stiffeners.
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Old 02-07-2016, 09:11 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tad Roberts View Post
Like this....

Attachment 46558


This looks better to me, so why are people not opening up the clearance from prop to keel using the curve design versus just tapering the keel end straight?

If you go to all that work anyway then why not. they think it is too hard?
Maybe if you make a pattern form, then a metal shop could fab the pieces. Then you cut out the keel and weld in the new metal. Looks like a flat cut plate into which is pressed the concave surface. So I am thinking you need 4 pieces of steel shaped.
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Old 02-07-2016, 09:46 AM   #35
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If it was done at a sheet metal / machine shop, then the filler sections could be rolled slightly, then trimmed where they meet and provide Tad's nice prop clearance.

What he did was boatyard metalworking. Better than before but not as sexy as Tad's design. With the top end being rather slow, it should still perform properly. It would have been better / quieter had he cut back a bit of the metal near the leading edge of the props.
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Old 02-07-2016, 10:22 AM   #36
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Better water flow reshaping

Without a metal fab shop onsite it becomes very trick and expensive to get it right. I would be surprised if I could get those part for less then a grand and the fit up would be tough. I will look into to reshaping them into more of a radius. I have to use a sawall to cut it that will be no fun! On second thought the boat only goes 8 knots I'm done. If I have still have the boat in 15 years and need to redo the keel I will do it then.
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:46 AM   #37
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sdowney717,
Not that simple unless you've got all the right stuff like the machine of rollers that can bend sheet or plate in a curve. I thought funangler could have used a pipe cut just so for the prop shaft part but then after thinking about it decided cutting it even as a straight taper would add significantly to the time building.

No ... I think funangler did good. There will be slight turbulence along the top and bottom of the taper and in the center. A little turbulence around the prop hub is fly stuff. But the working part of the prop is above and below that level so probably no loss in efficiency will result ... not worth talking about anyway. The important thing is getting it done and FA got it done. I'd like to do it to but haven't. FA got it done.
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:03 PM   #38
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A rosebud and hammers can shape that plate. Heat and beat!!!

But given the tools at hand, I think Funangler did a pretty good job. As posted before, I think the boundary layer developed along the many feet of keel ahead of the prop is likely causing more turbulence than the shape of the keel bitter end. But certainly good to fair it as much as you can.
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:24 PM   #39
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Why not install a drive saver in the connecting flange? It would move the prop back an 1 inch plus and see if there is any improvement before radical surgery?

Seems a quick and easy check and you could do it in the water.
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Old 02-07-2016, 03:09 PM   #40
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I installed an aqua drive a few years back it's impossible to put Drivesaver in I made sure that the prop clearances is adequate now. I'm hoping she'll behave a little better in reverse. Just finished putting the first coat of Epoxy paint on it.
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