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Old 10-08-2019, 11:18 PM   #1
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Sand, and keep sanding, then sand more

Working on the bright work since itís summer all year here and there is maintenance to be done.

Prep and sand, first coat of Epifanes applied, now every 24 hours another sand and reapply until 6 coats.

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Old 10-08-2019, 11:25 PM   #2
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Looking good! You're fortunate to have that So Cal climate. How long does the Epifanes last in those conditions?
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Old 10-08-2019, 11:41 PM   #3
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Looks very nice but not for me anymore. I am converting to paint.
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Old 10-09-2019, 12:18 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Baba Yaga View Post
Working on the bright work since itís summer all year here and there is maintenance to be done.

Prep and sand, first coat of Epifanes applied, now every 24 hours another sand and reapply until 6 coats.
Yup, that's how I spent two weeks in June. 170 running feet times six costs (another this weekend).

36 grit followed by 150 on the cap rails, then 220 every coat on the hand rails. Phew!
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:14 AM   #5
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Looking good! You're fortunate to have that So Cal climate. How long does the Epifanes last in those conditions?


Yearly upkeep...years
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:15 AM   #6
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Yup, that's how I spent two weeks in June. 170 running feet times six costs (another this weekend).



36 grit followed by 150 on the cap rails, then 220 every coat on the hand rails. Phew!


Wow, 36 grit scares me. First for me was an 80 followed by 120, then each coat after is 220 and 400.
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:17 AM   #7
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Looks very nice but not for me anymore. I am converting to paint.
Yep, machine sanded all our flaking rails with 60grit and rolled on two coats of Sherman Williams self priming acrylic exterior house paint tinted to a timber colour.
That was near 4 years ago and still looks fine.
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:39 AM   #8
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Yep, machine sanded all our flaking rails with 60grit and rolled on two coats of Sherman Williams self priming acrylic exterior house paint tinted to a timber colour.
That was near 4 years ago and still looks fine.
We did the rails around our sundeck last winter with white polyurethane. We really like the look and the upkeep should be much much less work. We actually finished doing some more areas today. I think that it updates the look of the boat and makes it look more modern. And did I mention the less work...
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:51 AM   #9
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Are you willing to share some pictures of your painted railings. Ours are almost all stripped and ready for sanding and then new varnish or paint. I am much inclined to paint.
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We did the rails around our sundeck last winter with white polyurethane. We really like the look and the upkeep should be much much less work. We actually finished doing some more areas today. I think that it updates the look of the boat and makes it look more modern. And did I mention the less work...
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:46 AM   #10
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Are you willing to share some pictures of your painted railings. Ours are almost all stripped and ready for sanding and then new varnish or paint. I am much inclined to paint.
I would put on a couple maybe 3 of coats of varnish before painting. That will allow you or a future owner to strip and re varnish if they so choose. Once you put paint on raw teak you will never get it out of the grain.

I saw a Grand Banks with beautifully Awlgripped toe rails. Looked nice. Said he hadn’t touched them in years.
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:52 AM   #11
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Looks like a very professional job Baba. Takes patience and dedication. Very nice!
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:56 AM   #12
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Just getting ready to strip our bright work to bare wood. Do most of you use a heat gun? If so, how do you deal with small eyebrow molding thatís tight up against the fiberglass?

Also considering going back with Cetol this time since the new colors are nicer and the stuff is less burdensome to keep up.
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:19 AM   #13
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Just getting ready to strip our bright work to bare wood. Do most of you use a heat gun? If so, how do you deal with small eyebrow molding that’s tight up against the fiberglass?

Also considering going back with Cetol this time since the new colors are nicer and the stuff is less burdensome to keep up.
Heat gun and one of these scrapers. You will be surprised at how much you can accomplish with one of these. The heat gun is fine if you pay attention. The varnish will bubble before you damage gel coat. 3 coats of Cetol Natural Teak and 2-3 coats of gloss. Sanding between coats of gloss will add to the smoothness but not necessary.
That’s a Bahco scraper by the way. Many different carbide tips available for the detailed work if necessary.

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Old 10-09-2019, 08:10 AM   #14
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Please, those who have gone to paint, post some pictures. I spent many hours doing my hand rails anticipating adding a quick coat every year but fell behind and now they are needing a complete job. Too much work!

A friend spent several years doing his boat with epiphanes. He really did it right, many coats, sanding between coats. It was beautiful !! He has severe health issues now and has not kept up on the brightwork for two years and it is almost back to square one.

I pulled the teak on my F.B. a couple years ago. Big job but worth it. Now I am contemplating doing the side walkways and painting the rest. Admiral says "No" but if I could show her some nice pictures of a quality job it might sway her.

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Old 10-09-2019, 08:10 AM   #15
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Heat gun and one of these scrapers. You will be surprised at how much you can accomplish with one of these. The heat gun is fine if you pay attention. The varnish will bubble before you damage gel coat. 3 coats of Cetol Natural Teak and 2-3 coats of gloss. Sanding between coats of gloss will add to the smoothness but not necessary.
Thatís a Bahco scraper by the way. Many different carbide tips available for the detailed work if necessary.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....E74ZL._AC_.jpg
Thanks very much
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:18 AM   #16
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Looks very nice but not for me anymore. I am converting to paint.
I painted all my bright work with Pettit e-z poxy (white). Luckily I do not have teak railings. I painted the bright work 3 years ago and 95 % looks like it was painted yesterday. I have some touch up on door moldings where I didnít sand quite as well since it could not be removed like the bright work which I used a palm sander on. Iím super happy Iím not a slave to it. I donít mind touch up.

Another great tip is I replaced my teak ladder steps to the bridge and swim deck with trex. No maintenance EVER!
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:20 AM   #17
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Please, those who have gone to paint, post some pictures. I spent many hours doing my hand rails anticipating adding a quick coat every year but fell behind and now they are needing a complete job. Too much work!

A friend spent several years doing his boat with epiphanes. He really did it right, many coats, sanding between coats. It was beautiful !! He has severe health issues now and has not kept up on the brightwork for two years and it is almost back to square one.

I pulled the teak on my F.B. a couple years ago. Big job but worth it. Now I am contemplating doing the side walkways and painting the rest. Admiral says "No" but if I could show her some nice pictures of a quality job it might sway her.

pete
Let me see if I can pull up a pic. Iím sure it will be sideways though. Lol
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:27 AM   #18
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As promised, this is what I could find . Plan on taking lots of pictures when the new bridge enclosure is finished.
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Old 10-09-2019, 09:07 AM   #19
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Itís the tiny louver detail on the teak engine intakes that drive me crazy. Next time Iím just using the teak sealer like they do at the boat shows. No foot deep gloss, but still attractive and applies like water. This Florida sun consumes Cetol, Varnish and Epiphane.

Photo shows my veranda after sanding and coating with sealer. Good enough.
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Old 10-09-2019, 09:52 AM   #20
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These arenít great photos. Will take some more today. We just painted the angled teak in the second photo. Have to go strip the tape in a bit.
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