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Old 01-02-2014, 10:21 PM   #1
db2
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42 LRC Teak and Holly Floor Removal

Hi all,
My refit of a 1974 42 LRC ( hull # 31) is coming along and soon I will move work from the aft cabin to the main salon/galley. My boat has teak and holly soles at the entry and at the galley with fitted carpet everywhere else. I am not sure if these teak and holly patches are solid or ply. Also, does anyone know how they are attached to the plywood underneath? I don't know if I will reuse them, but it seems a shame to needlessly destroy them.

thanks,

Dan
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:32 AM   #2
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Interesting. . . I bought mine from the Californian dealer, Yachts Unlimited on Lake Union in Seattle in 1977 and by then at least, all the 37, 38, and 42 LRC's that I saw there were all carpeted. Mine is a '76 model and it was shag carpet throughout.

It is certainly possible that it might be original. Marshall boat company was refining their LRC's during that period, making lots of changes and experimenting with various options. I have seen older LRC's without the mahogany interiors, even one with a single T6.354 engine and another with no flybridge. So anything is possible. Search through some of the previous posts in the "Californian" category on this forum for pictures of Californian variations that have been posted. There may be some interior pics that could help. Here is one I posted with a teak floor, but it was installed by the owner. Notice he covered over the engine access hatches in the main salon.

Early 38' Californian LRC Trawler

Good luck with your project.
Larry B
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:40 PM   #3
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I refit with pergo type flooring a year ago. Holding up great. I picture framed the hatches independently at home with teak, and then slid the flooring in the picture framed hatches. The rest of the salon was just measuring and cutting. The flooring was left over from our attic remodel at home. It is actually a quality wood veneer not pergo. I then finished the picture framed teak with teak oil. It is looking and wearing great. No warping, moisture problems, etc. If you do this, make sure to leave 1/8ish space on all sides for expansion. Feel free to call me with any questions. 360-600-2202.
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:50 PM   #4
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Here are a few more pics. I included the attic pic so you can perhaps see a better photo of the wood.
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:56 PM   #5
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Looks great Sam. Nice work.

Rob
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:58 PM   #6
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Edelweiss, How much did these Marshal's sell for new in 76/77?
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:59 PM   #7
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Thank you rob. I hear its chilly in your part of the country?


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Old 01-05-2014, 09:03 PM   #8
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You are welcome Sam. It has been cold the past two days around 0 at night. today was in the 30's. Tomorrow should be too then back to the deep freeze.

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Old 01-05-2014, 09:07 PM   #9
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Dan,
Correction. I used mahogany, not teak in trimming.

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Old 01-06-2014, 01:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam View Post
Edelweiss, How much did these Marshal's sell for new in 76/77?
The very basic 38' LRC twin 185 Perkins (No electronics, with alcohol stove, ice box,) was $70,000. Add sounders, electric stove, window curtains, settee, table, fridge/freezer, 7 1/2 KW generator, VHF, sounders, remote spot light, bow pulpit, anchor and chain, septic system, etc, etc. was another $30 - $35k

I actually was on a very basic 38' LRC once. . . The buyer ordered and took delivery several years before and planned to outfit the boat as they could afford it. It was pretty shocking!! They were outfitting it with a lot of Perko parts and discount electronics.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:15 PM   #11
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Great looking floor Sam, thanks for the pics. I too have been considering a modern laminate floor, I am looking hard at Allure from HD. It is a vinyl product so it may be great for a boat. However, I am not sure about the "floating" design of these floors. I agree that I do not want the floor to buckle from expansion, but I am not crazy about the floor shifting around in the boat. Here is what I am thinking: Picture frame the hatch with Mahogany as you did, but make it flush with the floor thickness and bond the floor into the hatch. The hatch is not a big area and the expansion should not be large. Even if it did buckle, I could try something else on the hatch. I was thinking of bonding the floor around the hatch only and leaving the rest of the floor to float with a 1/8" gap around the edges as you suggest. What do you think?

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Old 01-06-2014, 10:14 PM   #12
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DB2
Doesn't your boat have two side-by-side 5' long lift out hatches in the salon floor over the engines? Keep in mind that if you cover them over in such a way that they can not be lifted, you will have grave difficulty doing any substantial repair to the engines.

Sam
I guess I'm not very observant. . . I just realized your crew were each holding a salmon in your avatar !!
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:40 AM   #13
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Larry,
Your right! both 5' hatches are removable still. Actually, one 5', the other a 3' and 2'.
I thought long and hard before I came up with the floor plan. None are hinged, but all are removable.

your friend,

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Old 01-07-2014, 12:42 AM   #14
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In fact, the screws just hold down the trim. In actuality, all hatches just lift up
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:53 AM   #15
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Yeah. . ., I could see your's were removable.

I was thinking more about what Dan (DB2) said in his post #11. Sounds like he is saying he is going to floor over the two large engine hatches, unless I'm reading it wrong?
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:28 AM   #16
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Larry, it sounds like he's planning to keep the hatches removable and bond the flooring to the hatch tops. The flooring near the edges of the hatches is going to be bonded to the decking, but the area away from the hatches will be allowed to float and expand.

I have considered a similar approach, Dan. I bet it'll work. Keep us posted.
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:25 PM   #17
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Just finishing up some floor work on Sandpiper…

Nasty carpet before, teak & holly ply now. I wanted something that looked OK but was easily cleaned and serviceable, not something so nice that I would freak when something got spilled or the dog was aboard. I had looked into the manufactured flooring but was advised against it here with our heat and humidity.

Still waiting to finish the quarter-round trim work around the outer edges… darned work getting in the way of life, again!
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:54 PM   #18
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Bren;
Wow. . . What a difference that makes. Looking good!!

Larry B
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Larry,
Your right! both 5' hatches are removable still. Actually, one 5', the other a 3' and 2'. I thought long and hard before I came up with the floor plan. None are hinged, but all are removable.
Sam:
Now that is interesting. Your two large hatches are different sizes "one 5' and one 3' Mine are exactly the same size, 5'. The third "small hatch" is located directly in front of the sink where the chair base is visible in your picture and it is hinged. But it's also totally useless as it's directly over the generator

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Old 01-07-2014, 01:09 PM   #20
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That looks fantastic, bren737. Why the stbd access plug? What are your plans for the table mounts?
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