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Old 09-07-2019, 01:12 PM   #1
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Island Gypsy 30 - possible purchase

Hi all:

Newby here to the forum and hopefully posting in the right place. We are (as many have been) sailors transitioning to trawler life and our search has led us to considering an Island Gypsy 30. The vessel in question appears to be Hull number 82 (from what I've gathered from info on this site). A fresh water boat all its life; total hours on the Ford Lehmann are less than 1100. The boat is being completely restored at present with all windows removed; new tracks, new frames epoxied etc etc. The vessel does not have a bow thruster nor windlass which is something we are looking at having installed.

There are teak decks which as far as I can tell are for aesthetics and on top of solid fibreglass. The hawsers have been removed as part of the restore and the fg appears to be 1 1/4" thick. it appears to be a solid, substantial vessel.

Looking for comments from those familiar with this brand and this model specifically; pluses/minuses; things to look for; things to consider must haves.

Dual helm with minimal electronics at this time. We have a unique situation (should we move forward) to install what we wish prior to launch next season.

We are drawn to the classic lines of this vessel and the 'simplicity' of its systems.

Comments and observations are welcomed and most appreciated as we tackle the learning curve of moving from sail to power.
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Old 09-07-2019, 01:35 PM   #2
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Welcome aboard. Teak decks typically are either glued or screwed down to the fiberglass deck. The decks are usually not solid fiberglass but usually cored. Fiberglass on top and bottom with a core in between. The core is usually the problem if the teak is screwed to the top layer of fiberglass. The bedding becomes compromised and water leaks into the core from the screw holes. It can be hard to tell if the core is wet with the teak on top. Good luck with the boat.
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Old 09-07-2019, 01:36 PM   #3
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Welcome aboard!
Don't assume those decks are solid glass. Usually core of some type. Rarely solid.
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Old 09-07-2019, 01:54 PM   #4
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Welcome Rob! Lots of former sailors here.

My only thought would be that if you get the boat, I would hold off on the thruster and updated electronics until you have used the boat for a season. Depending on the sailboats you have used, you may find that the thruster isnít necessary. Likewise with the electronics you will learn what you really will want and need as you use the boat.

I know that what I used and found useful on my 40í sailboat is a bit different than what I use and find useful on my 43í trawler.
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Old 09-07-2019, 01:55 PM   #5
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Thanks for your responses:

How best to tell if there are water issues. I believe the teak is screwed as there are plugs (no doubt to cover the screws). The boat has been inside storage on the hard for the last year while the boat is being restored. A moisture meter over the deck, hull, sides show less than 15% with most readings in the 10% range (could this just be a factor of being inside out of the elements for this length of time?)
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Old 09-07-2019, 02:21 PM   #6
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Yes, if it has been inside for a year it may not show moisture. Besides if it has teak on top of the glass, I am not sure a moisture meter will read through the teak and then glass. I would look the teak over carefully and see what shape the caulking is in. That may or may not be an indicator of leaks but you can only do so much with a used boat.
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Old 09-07-2019, 02:34 PM   #7
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We have an 85 IG 30 with twin P90's. I think it's #102. Love the boat. Simple, solid, easy to handle, nice sea motion, (well, except for large waves on the beam) confortable to stay on for long periods. Big difference from our prior sailboats. We can actually see something out the windows!

We are 2nd owners and it was in original condition, not very well maintained. Extensive leaks from windows. Need to be replaced with alum frames. Lots of pencil sized blisters on bottom, many through to laminate.. Put on barrier coat. Many cracks along fake seams along hull. Poor adhesion of first layer to gel coat. Grind and fill.

I replaced the fuel system, added racors and changed to hose. Replaced raw water system, added groco filters. Replaced exhaust system, added waterlift mufflers. Replaced a starter, fresh water pump, all coolers and heat exchangers. Replaced clutch plates and seals. Should be good for the next few years.

It is solid fiberglass but PO ran it aground at some point. Tabbing around rudder shaft frame was broken. Haven't fixed it yet. Still some leaks from cracks in fiberglass on bridge. Will grind them out at some point. Hot water heater didn't hold water. Replaced it and pump. Forward sea cocks were frozen. Renovated all of them. A thousand small items, install USB chargers, mounting EPIRB, etc. I think I underestimated time involved but I'm retired, so what.

I also purchased with zero electronics. I was thrilled because I didn't have to pay for obsolete junk that was going to be tossed. But running all the new wiring is going to be a few days. I mounted an IPad mini with Navionics for now.

Deck seams need to be recaulked. Fall project. All brightwork needs to be sanded to bare wood and 10 coats epiphanes applied. Spring project. I had my eyes open, it was clearly in need of an overhaul, but it is basically a sound well designed boat. We are thrilled with the visibilty and shade. (PO added sunbrella canopy along sides and stern all the way to transom) Do not miss the open cockpit at all.

Several concerns: I consider hawse pipes to be mandatory. They are well designed, sturdily built, and well placed. They make docking a breeze and boat is well secured. I can't imagine any way of improving on the good design. Cleats with line over cap rail would be a non-starter for me. I would make the offer contingent upon replacing the hawse hardware.

Second: If you dock in winds over 10 knots then a bow thruster is a good idea. Sailboat with deep keel doesn't get blown around quite as much as flat stern trawler with high bridge..

Third and most important: Make sure the toilet works :-) We have a jabsco elec and 25 gal holding tank. I installed a cleanout and a gauge on the tank. Have the hardware for a 2nd macerator to pump out the tank if necessary. Wish we had a 40 gallon tank.

Value of a decent boat seems to be in the 25-30K (USD) range.

-Gary
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Old 09-07-2019, 02:38 PM   #8
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Since this is a complete restore, I would consider removing the teak and examining the decks at this time for compromised core. Quite frankly, if I were doing a full blown resto on a teak deck trawler I would remove the deck teak anyway and not replace it. If you find soggy core, this repair is not difficult just laborious. If the core is fine, leave the teak off and refinish the decks and avoid a LOT of deck maintenance in the future.

Just my non-expert $ .02
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Old 09-07-2019, 02:49 PM   #9
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Third and most important: Make sure the toilet works :-) We have a jabsco elec and 25 gal holding tank. I installed a cleanout and a gauge on the tank. Have the hardware for a 2nd macerator to pump out the tank if necessary. Wish we had a 40 gallon tank.
When I sea trialed my current boat it was the largest personal expenditure I was ever to make outside a home. It was the heaviest boat I had ever operated, and it was the first time I operated anything other than a dingy or sailboat.

I must have tested the head three times during the hour long sea trial. No one said anything, but I can imagine their thoughts. :-)
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Old 09-07-2019, 04:34 PM   #10
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I am surprised, but I didn't see where anyone suggested getting an "accredited marine surveyor" that is familiar with the model boat you are considering.
It could save you from making a BIG mistake.

The IG-30s were never known for high quality, they were a price point boat.
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Old 09-07-2019, 06:36 PM   #11
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Since this is a complete restore, I would consider removing the teak and examining the decks at this time for compromised core. Quite frankly, if I were doing a full blown resto on a teak deck trawler I would remove the deck teak anyway and not replace it. If you find soggy core, this repair is not difficult just laborious. If the core is fine, leave the teak off and refinish the decks and avoid a LOT of deck maintenance in the future.

Just my non-expert $ .02
I agree 100%. We just recaulked and refinished our sundeck teak. About 300 hours on my knees. Never again.
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Old 09-07-2019, 07:31 PM   #12
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My 1981 IG 36 has original foam cored decks, as does Brisboy`s 1983. Check the coring around the lazarette opening. Teak offcut or ply coring is still likely and if wet will be an expensive fix. The tops of the tanks should tell you if there has been water penetration.
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Old 09-07-2019, 08:52 PM   #13
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Walk every inch of the decks and I do mean every inch. One foot in front of the other being sure to put all your weight on one foot at a time. If you feel any unevenness and soft spots, the core is or has been wet. If there is teak screwed to the decks, it will leak, eventually.



You mentioned epoxy and windows. I surely hope they are not epoxying any part of the windows in. Not even the decretive trim or face frames. Windows and anything bolted to the surfaces of the boats exterior will need re-bedding at some point. I would go over everything with a fine-tooth comb while she's out and undergoing repairs.
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Old 09-08-2019, 02:42 AM   #14
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Welcome aboard RJA7.
Plenty of good advice here so at this time I will just wish you all the best in your purchase after doing your due diligence.
Look forward to some pics if you go ahead or possibly other post on specific issues as you go.
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Old 09-08-2019, 02:35 PM   #15
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For the ipad with Navionics you can actually wire up a transducer with wireless transmitter (so it will deliver depth data to any smart device with the app on it that is connected to the local network). The transducer and wireless transmission box is a T-Box: https://www.navionics.com/usa/partne...narphone-t-box
This is a cheap alternative to a lot of wires and expensive chartplotters.
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:25 PM   #16
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My 1981 IG 36 has original foam cored decks, as does Brisboy`s 1983. Check the coring around the lazarette opening. Teak offcut or ply coring is still likely and if wet will be an expensive fix. The tops of the tanks should tell you if there has been water penetration.
My 85 IG30 has very solid FB hull but does has cored decks. 1/2" of teak, 3/16' FB, 1/2" core, 3/16" FB. Core appears to be teak scraps. There are probably some rotted out core spots, but I have no plans to repair them. I plan to recaulk seams, and have numerous foam yoga mats and knee pads ready.

I don't see the point of removing teak decks as some have mentioned. If you don't like teak buy a Mainship. It would be a lot cheaper. Send me a link to any fatalities resulting from wet cores under teak decks.

Agree with tanks being an issue. Inspected mine with borescope. Plenty of rust on top so I sanded it down and repainted. Have no idea how many more years to go before they rust through. Don't set bilge pump on auto.
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:36 PM   #17
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Recaulking a teak deck sucks. I did our sundeck and it was the worst job I have ever done on a boat. But my back has problems and both knees do not tolerate hard surfaces. I used many pads and also a foot stool to lay my chest on so I could use both hands. I used a blade for a multi tool from Jamestown. It worked well but was slow. I also used the multi tool for sanding the sides of the grooves. I took a regular cutting blade and ground the teeth off and rounded the corners a bit. Then I used the PSA sandpaper that was intended for the TDS sanding tool. It worked very well and way quicker than using the hand sanding tool. Good luck and have fun...
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Old 09-08-2019, 06:23 PM   #18
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Welcome Aboard ! Lots of good comments on the teak over fiberglass. Be careful but don't panic, if it is soft it can be prepared but I suspect you will find it solid.

No comments so far on the engine though..Let me be the first . 1100 hours on a F.L. are NOTHING, honestly barely broken in, ask anyone!! You don't mention the year of the boat or the engine model number but at only 30 feet, especially if it is an older boat you may have a naturally aspirated 120 or 135 hp engine. You don't need the blower on a smaller boat although if is supercharged don't worry about it with those low hours. But a 120 or 125 hp F.L. will easily run flawlessly for up to 10,000 hours. Just normal maintenance stuff like oil changes and filters with valve adjustments every couple years. (At about over 5,000 hours you may want to consider lifting the head for a valve job) Change the heat exchangers, water pumps and hoses once in a while and you are "hone free".

Buy the boat, send pictures!!

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Old 09-08-2019, 06:27 PM   #19
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I think that people didn’t say much about the engine because they assumed that a Lehman would not be a problem. Which they rarely are. Agree that the hours are nothing.
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Old 09-08-2019, 07:19 PM   #20
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My 85 IG30 has very solid FB hull but does has cored decks. 1/2" of teak, 3/16' FB, 1/2" core, 3/16" FB. Core appears to be teak scraps. There are probably some rotted out core spots, but I have no plans to repair them. I plan to recaulk seams, and have numerous foam yoga mats and knee pads ready.

I don't see the point of removing teak decks as some have mentioned. If you don't like teak buy a Mainship. It would be a lot cheaper. Send me a link to any fatalities resulting from wet cores under teak decks.

Agree with tanks being an issue. Inspected mine with borescope. Plenty of rust on top so I sanded it down and repainted. Have no idea how many more years to go before they rust through. Don't set bilge pump on auto.

Who the hell said anything about "fatalities"...?

We're talking about checking for soft cores and dealing with teak deck maintenance, but I do appreciate your flair for the dramatic...
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