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Old 04-01-2014, 06:16 AM   #81
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Andy, the spring loaded actuation switch helps,the battery being far away.
Doriana is up for antifouling after 2 good years of Jotun Seaguardian so I got pics you wanted of the underwater modification across the transom. Second pic shows the depth of the addition, cut away either side of the keel. Not having run an IG36 without the mod. I`ve no idea the difference it makes if any, but it looks intended to push the stern up, and bow down.
Perhaps the designers considering Mr.Pilgrim`s designs can take a look.
I seem to get excessive fouling of the running gear,shipwright says it can be caused by cavitation at high speed. IGs don`t do high speed, could it relate to the modification, particularly the gaps beside the keel?
Hi Bruce,
I noticed this stern wedge treatment on a 44 FAD recently, but did not look as added as yours.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:03 PM   #82
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Been a while since I addressed the bow thruster issue. But I need to deal with it again. I'm in need of a new Sleipner 9" prop. The old one has a set screw that gave up the ghost. Also wondering if anyone on the list has changed the system short of changing thrusters all together.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:42 PM   #83
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Go to IMTRA for all things Sleipner. Great technical support and parts availability.
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:07 AM   #84
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Will do that. Got one some time ago from the UK and the cost for shipping and customs was twice what the prop was.
Thanks
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:01 AM   #85
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looking at the pictures of your ER lids/floors/decks, what kind of insulation do you have in there. Did you do it or did Halvorsen do that. I like to insulate the sound of my diesel some. Is that diamond plate aluminum under there or what. My winter project is painting the entire engine room and beyond new again to make it look cleaner.
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:23 AM   #86
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Hi. I am trying to help a relative of mine, who owns an IG 39 she may be putting on the market. The boat is in exceptional condition except for one minor cosmetic issue. The interior of the door from the salon to the aft deck has a wooden (teak?) panel which has sustained water-related staining/discoloration. Only the door has this problem, which seems odd, since the door is more or less isolated from the rest of the house by being hung on hinges.

Does anyone know where that water might have come from? My only guess is that since the boat was at a dock, and therefore not always facing into the wind, that in heavy blowing rain from aft, water got to the door's window, which maybe was not sealed properly, and the water got in there. ??

Also: how would you repair this? Obviously, if my theory is correct, we would need to re-caulk the window. But as for the wood, I figure one would have to replace that whole teak panel; or (since sanding and use of teak-sealer would probably still show some water staining) paint that wooden panel to match the general color of the rest of the teak trim OR paint that panel the same color as the fiberglass gelcoat of the door and cabin. Any suggestions?

Has anyone else seen this type of leak in that location? Curiously, the water stains are in the bottom half of the panel (not the top, which is where I'd more expect to see something related to the door's window).

Any theories and suggestions are welcome!
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:39 AM   #87
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Hi. I am trying to help a relative of mine, who owns an IG 39 she may be putting on the market. The boat is in exceptional condition except for one minor cosmetic issue. The interior of the door from the salon to the aft deck has a wooden (teak?) panel which has sustained water-related staining/discoloration. Only the door has this problem, which seems odd, since the door is more or less isolated from the rest of the house by being hung on hinges.

Does anyone know where that water might have come from? My only guess is that since the boat was at a dock, and therefore not always facing into the wind, that in heavy blowing rain from aft, water got to the door's window, which maybe was not sealed properly, and the water got in there. ??

Also: how would you repair this? Obviously, if my theory is correct, we would need to re-caulk the window. But as for the wood, I figure one would have to replace that whole teak panel; or (since sanding and use of teak-sealer would probably still show some water staining) paint that wooden panel to match the general color of the rest of the teak trim OR paint that panel the same color as the fiberglass gelcoat of the door and cabin. Any suggestions?

Has anyone else seen this type of leak in that location? Curiously, the water stains are in the bottom half of the panel (not the top, which is where I'd more expect to see something related to the door's window).

Any theories and suggestions are welcome!
Both the helm door and the aft door lower interior panels on our IG32 have had this staining. Some of it is from exterior water, especially the helm door, but condensation also contributes. The moisture may be getting in from bad caulking around the widow above, but also from running down the exterior of the panel and seeping into the join between the panel and the lower surrounding solid teak frame and then wicking up in the end grain of the veneer.

Our helm door panel got bad enough that I decided to replace it. It was quite a process as it was a thin veneer over ply that was epoxied during construction of the door to the fiberglass outer part of the door behind it. Then the solid teak door frame was constructed and screwed and epoxied to the fiberglass and on top of the edges of the panel.

I had to carefully and laboriously router the old panel out using a movable jig extending from the solid teak frame on one side, over the top of the panel, and then onto the top of the frame on the other side. Then edge guides to cut back the solid teak frame on all four sides of the panel.

I then epoxied a new veneer over ply panel into the routered out space. I made sure the grain on the edges of the panel got a good epoxy soaking.

Next I cut, fit, gave a decorative edge routing to, and epoxied solid teak trim strips around all four edges of the panel butting against the cut back solid teak frames and extending slightly over the edges of the panel.

Then I brushed clear epoxy over the exterior of the panel followed by multiple coats of satin spar urethane with UV filters.

Five years later the panel looks band new still.

The aft door lower panel on our boat is constructed a little differently. It also seems to be veneer inside but mated to a thin gelcoated panel on the outside. May have to cut out the whole kit and kaboodle if and when the stain gets too bad. Might actually be an easier job than the helm door.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:35 PM   #88
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Thanks so much, dwhatty.
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:03 PM   #89
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I also posted my questions about the stained teak on the door's interior in the Maintenance forum. Please post any responses there. Thanks.
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:32 PM   #90
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The set screw that holds the prop on the shaft has no ability to hold the prop in place. I replace 3 props in 2 years. This winter I'm having a new shaft made that will hold the prop on in a different way with a through bolt from the end.
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Old 09-25-2014, 01:36 PM   #91
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The set screw that holds the prop on the shaft has no ability to hold the prop in place. I replace 3 props in 2 years. This winter I'm having a new shaft made that will hold the prop on in a different way with a through bolt from the end.
You must have a weird set up. Ours, as does every shaft/prop set up I've ever seen, has two nuts (one a thinner jamb nut) on the end of the shaft holding the prop on, plus a large cotter pin through a transverse hole in the outer end of the shaft that prevents the nuts from coming off in case they work loose. If the nuts can't come off, the prop (theoretically) shouldn't come off.

As to which of the two nuts goes on the shaft in what order, that's been a matter of discussion for ages.
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Old 09-25-2014, 03:34 PM   #92
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bow thruster

I'm talking about the Schleipner bow thruster. It has only one 3/16 little allen set screw set into a detend at the end of the shaft. The torque from the 6 HP motor does a number on that little screw.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:03 PM   #93
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Oookay. I must have missed something in your original post.

Haven't had that problem with either the bow or stern thruster. I always put some loctite on that machine screw each year when I put the new zinc on.
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Old 09-26-2014, 09:37 AM   #94
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bow thruster

Did the same thing each time. I feel the 6 HP motor just raises havoc with the little screw and the plastic of the prop.
I have a spare just in case, but will try some other form of fastening the prop to the shaft next spring
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Old 11-21-2014, 06:37 AM   #95
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Andy G. Re; The bow thruster. The little 3/16 set screw holding the 9" prop in place is just not enough. I lost 3 props in as many years. At 9HP on the prop, pulling to StBd, it likes to pull the prop right of the shaft. I do not switch from Port to StBd on the thruster without a pause, none the less it too much HP on the plastic.
By the way, because of a change in computers and a subsequent loss of info I have yet another name with which I log on caus e I could not use my old name, "that name is already in use" :-)
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Old 05-06-2017, 09:21 AM   #96
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Am a new proud owner of an 1990 IG 36 Europa that needs some cosmetic work. Love the layout and may have to reluctantly retire the sailboat. Will there be a trawler meet in Solomon's this year, would love to make that my maiden voyage from North Carolina.
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Old 05-06-2017, 03:31 PM   #97
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"similar" is not close to the same. The prices are way high for a salt water boat.
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Old 05-09-2017, 11:17 AM   #98
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IG 32 Europa

Hello Everyone,

This is my first post and I look forward to participating in this forum. I would like to introduce myself. My name is Wayne Prichard (gray dog) and I live in Knoxville TN. We have owned our 1999 IG 32 Europa m/v Journey for three years and have used her for cruising much of that time. We have cruised almost 10,000 miles doing the great loop and a separate partial run to Florida. She is a great performer and I refer to her as a "muscular little boat".

When we bought her in 2014 she needed substantial upgrades to the electronics, larger black water holding tanks, canvas, dinghy lift, new batteries and the list goes on. More money than I ever expected but got her ready for long term cruising. Since we were away from our home waters so much of the time I had an opportunity to get to know her up close and personal. It was a rapid learning curve.

I am happy to contribute from my experience and I suspect you will see me ask a few questions from time to time.

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Old 05-09-2017, 11:27 AM   #99
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upgrades

Kind of what happened to my purchase of the IG 36. After the survey informed me the boat was in great shape, I repaired and replaced $12000 in electronics and about another $5500 in canvas, water and black water tank as well as other incidentals. But I got to know w the boat very well since I did most of my own work. Still trying to figure out what to do about the Windlass.
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Old 05-09-2017, 12:20 PM   #100
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More money than I ever expected but got her ready for long term cruising.
That seems to be a common experience for a lot of us.
Glad you got the boat where you want it and are using her.
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