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Old 09-29-2016, 03:01 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
which walls do you think would be unstable?

I removed my FB seats 5 years ago when I pulled my real decks up.

the side walls on the FB, because the seats are gone and there are major gaps in it.
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:03 PM   #42
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well good luck with it, can't really picture why it is different.
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:13 PM   #43
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I thought the seats gave a lot of structural rigidity to the side walls. but they dont. so there is no problem when removed.
and maybe I was worried to much
for me it's quite a big operation, because I have almost no experience in fiberglass.








By the way, this is the epoxy that I use
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:33 PM   #44
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a couples day later..
filled in the gap and sealed the seams.
fiberglased it all together and smoothed with filler.

tomorrow i can start sanding.

I'm quite satisfied with the results so far.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:08 PM   #45
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and, of course, also did the other side
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:14 PM   #46
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on the inside of the flybridge cabinet, I also used fiberglass for added strength
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:17 PM   #47
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the raised edges in the middle off the deck are also removed and sealed with fiberglass
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:27 PM   #48
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in order to get the deck Smooth, I filled up the low areas with fiberglass.

later I will make it plain with west system 407
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:55 PM   #49
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Have you finished the sides where the seats were yet?

I just filled where the seat back was and left the rest open.

Put removable black plexiglass panels there and use that area to store fishing rods. Perfect use of space on my boat.
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Old 11-03-2016, 12:35 PM   #50
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As you can see on the lates pictures, the sides are in and ready for painting.
i wil finish the rest off the deck and paint the deck and sides in one go.
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Old 11-03-2016, 03:55 PM   #51
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Nice job...brings back memories.....also while I miss the storage having a huge wide open area up there is GREAT!
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:33 AM   #52
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finally I filled the deck with putty and got it real smooth.
After a paint job it looks great already.
Now I'm waiting for a new deck. it will be a teak lookalike.

meanwhile I'm sanding all the wood down and getting it ready to be varnish
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:35 PM   #53
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I had a problem with the drainage channels. the holes are too high, so there always remained a bit of water in the gangways. filled it up with epoxy filler and give it a paint of white.
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:41 PM   #54
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Making good progress on the old gal swordfish.
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:14 PM   #55
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Making good progress on the old gal swordfish.
What he said.
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Old 01-02-2017, 06:12 PM   #56
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thanks, but I must hurry...at the end of April she should be back the water
lots to do very little time
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:57 PM   #57
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finally found a good supplier for flexiteak so I can make a mold of the upper deck. let it manufacture for me and lay it down myself.
When measuring I found out that the mast hump was not in the middle or square. They had ask me to put as much information as possible on the mold so I did.

photo #1
roughly translated:
mast foot not in the middle!
because in 1978 it was allowed for Carpenters to drink during work
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Old 01-22-2017, 04:18 PM   #58
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Also started to refresh the hatch of aft cabin.
by a bad sealant joint moisture has come under the wood.

after removing the old wood I attacked a sheet of plywood with a router.
now I only have to finish the edges and put the fan back into place.
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:58 PM   #59
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I do not know where to start but I have serious difficulties with painting. probably I suffer from a silicone contamination. I use the same brand of paint for years, and always have a professional end result. except for this boat.
the paint will not adhere to the vessel or paint tray as you can see in the picture, so the supplier added an anti-silicone. now the paint adheres well but will not spread out evenly on hull or upper structure.
I'm working with Akzo Nobel on a solution...
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Old 04-02-2017, 03:54 PM   #60
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a couple days later...

I did several tests with my paint and I think the paint is not good.
if I use an old can of paint, all goes well. when I use the new batch it looks terrible. When I use the old paint can again it also looks terrible because I used my infected paint brushes and rollers.
I bought a liter Sigmarine 49 and a new brush.... all goes well on the unpainted surface. and terrible on the contaminated paint.

Akzo wants to help me but refers me back to the supplier.

my supplier helped me initially but when I showed my test results the conversation started to be hostile.
they wanted to do there own tests so I brought back my 12liters of paint. he took all the lids of all the paint cans and I noticed a color difference He could not deny it
A test surface was painted (i told him to mark the paint can he just used) and i was asked to leave the building. about three days later (he should call me he said) i walked back into the store for some results.

the first thing i saw was a different test surface?? and the marking on the can was removed??

The paint on the test surface was in excellent condition. the other test was just the same he said and already tost it in the bin.

again a hostile conversation.

the only thing i want is a solution to the problem..
so far it had cost me about 800 euros of paint and supplies and his solution is to invest another 1300 euro in paint of an other brand i don't want..?

i told him i have to sand down the hole ship again so how fast can you get your 1300 euro solution in store?? he began to doubt himself and only wanted to sell me a liter to do some tests..?? He has no confidence in its own products i guess.
I was not planning to buy any products from him anyway... ever!! i think he is trying to screw me over big time
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