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Old 03-06-2016, 02:37 PM   #21
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I would not mix aluminum and brass....unless very well isolated from each other.

I could be wrong but if the brass has enough copper in it....copper and aluminum in a salty environment are mortal enemies with the aluminum cording very fast.

If you can squeeze in a layer of rubber or plastic sheeting...it may be fine.

I shaved a half inch off my wooden mast hump, built back up with multiple layers of fiberglass roving and built a dam around the whole thing and filled with epoxy. Still good after 5 years and I use my mast/boom to lift my 200 pound dingy.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:39 PM   #22
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can you spot the difference?
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
I would not mix aluminum and brass....unless very well isolated from each other.

I could be wrong but if the brass has enough copper in it....copper and aluminum in a salty environment are mortal enemies with the aluminum cording very fast.

If you can squeeze in a layer of rubber or plastic sheeting...it may be fine.

I shaved a half inch off my wooden mast hump, built back up with multiple layers of fiberglass roving and built a dam around the whole thing and filled with epoxy. Still good after 5 years and I use my mast/boom to lift my 200 pound dingy.

the aluminium container is painted. the underside of the brass is treated whit rubber seal. the holes where the stainless steel bolts come through will be sealed with sikaflex
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:10 PM   #24
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Swordfish: Nice job. Better than new.
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:26 PM   #25
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Greetings,
Mr. s. You do VERY nice work.
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:01 PM   #26
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the aluminium container is painted. the underside of the brass is treated whit rubber seal. the holes where the stainless steel bolts come through will be sealed with sikaflex
That's not good enought in the long run. I'd either make a thin pad, say out of Starboard, to go between the aluminum box and the brass part or you nylon washers to raise the brass part off the aluminum box while filling the space between the parts with 5200 to form a gasket.
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:53 PM   #27
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That's not good enought in the long run. I'd either make a thin pad, say out of Starboard, to go between the aluminum box and the brass part or you nylon washers to raise the brass part off the aluminum box while filling the space between the parts with 5200 to form a gasket.
Tough call for sure...but I agree, with a mast plate that will work a bit, it should have more than paint and a coating unless that coating is at least an 1/8 inch thick and tough as nails.
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:46 AM   #28
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So far it had cost me nothing. I found the high grade aluminium box , paint and rubber seal i had lying around. The only thing it had cost me is the work of grinding 8 mm off the brass.
the rubberseal is recomended to apply at a minimum thickness of 2 mm. I wanted to apply only at the brass but as i read al your reactions i think i apply it on the aluminium box to, so i have 2 layers of 2mm

Next year i want to grind the back to back seat of the flybridge and place flexiteek. Therefor i have to remove the mast again. I can inspect how my solution has worked out. If its not held up i should have listen to you all at first or else i have earned bragging rights



(Flexiteek is a one piece plastic deck that looks like a teak deck with grains and everything Which can be glued over the existing deck)
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:09 AM   #29
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at least an 1/8 inch thick.
Just found out 1/8 inch is 3.17 MM
why do you use that oddbal meassurement system and talk funny.. makes it al so hard for me
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:17 AM   #30
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Because I can....

4mm of rubber.....see....you sometimes can just feel the right thickness no matter whose funny ruler you use....
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:51 AM   #31
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Greetings,
Mr. s. There is a very simple reason the USA does not use the metric system. They have to keep up with the other two countries who still use the "other" system-Myanmar and Libya. (1mm=.040")

Regarding the "funny talk". Well, my friend, you'll just have to learn to "listen funny."

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Old 03-07-2016, 11:23 AM   #32
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:10 PM   #33
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Just found out 1/8 inch is 3.17 MM
why do you use that oddbal meassurement system and talk funny.. makes it al so hard for me
I think it's because Obama urged the kids to learn science, but never did his own homework for 8 years.
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:37 PM   #34
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due to bad weather, I have made no further progress with the masthump.
because there is still plenty to do I continued making ventilation in the porthole.
First I made a cardboard template. Then I sawed a piece of plexiglas. I had to thicken it at thebottom so I could use the existing wing nuts.
after I was sure it fitted wel, I drilled holes in the plexiglass. Finally I put a trimmed down grid on the inside and a stock grit on te outside to prevent rain comming in.
after testing with the old dutch test method (throw a bucket of water against it) found out that i had to use foamtape for a waterproof seal around the edge of the porthole.

going to see how it holds up after a few day's. maybe i make some more
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:01 PM   #35
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it has been a while since I've posted something.
after a lot of rain, the repairs i have made to the masthump are working out. dit not even have seen a drop of water at the ceiling. will post some pictures of the end result soon.

so up to the next task: electics, 12 volt system.
for starters i was planning to replace the batteries. When I pulled out the old batteries I wanted to check the cables. due to the complete chaos i had to call a electrician. He checked the cables and told me it was good, but very complex. when I asked him to look at the control panel/switchboard he started to laugh and I thought I heard him pray to god a little

after I asked him if it looked like spaghetti or a bird's nest, he answered: spaghetti sir. because in a bird's nest there is at least some structure!!
He gave me some advice for batteries and advice to clean the controlepanel/switchboard.
have bought 3x 200ah lucas batteries and placed them. started the cleanup of all unnecessary cables and then I began to understand some things in the chaos. I found out how the previous owner had made some circuits (and which now were not properly connected anymore) after remaking some circuits, things such as fuel gauges, refrigerator, several lamps etc. etc. suddenly starting to work when you press the button. finally I put in a new battery charger (victron IP22. 12/30) and a batteriemonitor (victron bmv 700)
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:15 PM   #36
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some before pictures
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:17 AM   #37
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after a cleanup and instaling victron parts it look like this
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:39 PM   #38
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After much thought, I decided that I was going to remove the back to back seats at the flybridge.
I started removing the teak trim on the inside and found out that the flybridge was hovering 2 cm above the deck and hold togetter by glue on the salon roof. In my opinion it must be properly secured So before I started I had an additional task

I was also afraid that the walls would be very unstable without the solidity of the seats, therefore, I first thought yet again before I started sawing.
finally I took the gamble and started with the first cut.

afterwards the walls are very stable without the SB seat, but to be sure i will strengthen them anyways by adding trusses.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:55 PM   #39
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which walls do you think would be unstable?

I removed my FB seats 5 years ago when I pulled my real decks up.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:56 PM   #40
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After cutting the starboard seats I had some good space to smooth out the gap with epoxy. later on i will reinforce it with glass fiber.

I will try to fit the short side of the seat into the sawn hole in de flybridge wall.
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