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Old 02-05-2015, 01:43 PM   #21
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If you do go to look at the boat bring a camera on a stick. Some type of holder for a camera that you can get into places that are not easily visible.
Exterior rust is common on the tops of these tanks from leaks in around the deck fuel fill plate, then there is often rust on the bottom from bilge water. Water in the tank can sit at the bottom and cause corrosion from the inside.
I have heard of situations where both engines had to be removed to get new tanks into the boat
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtbrokerguy View Post
If you do go to look at the boat bring a camera on a stick. Some type of holder for a camera that you can get into places that are not easily visible.
Exterior rust is common on the tops of these tanks from leaks in around the deck fuel fill plate, then there is often rust on the bottom from bilge water. Water in the tank can sit at the bottom and cause corrosion from the inside.
I have heard of situations where both engines had to be removed to get new tanks into the boat
A Fiber Optic Camera Borescope might do the trick. Something like this:

Test, Measurement & Inspection | Optics & Visual Inspection | General Tools DCS600 SeaScope™ Recording Waterproof Video Inspection System | B803559 - GlobalIndustrial.com

Looks like a real handy device.

The tanks are mounted above the bilge somewhat similar to the Hershine link that was posted. I would be mostly worried about rust on the top.

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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
set up a simple pressure test system....probably what I should have done.

then you can check it at regular intervals....don't quote me but I believe around 5 psi for new tanks and around 3 for older ones. It should hold overnight at least.
Not sure I understand how to get the pressure in the tank and measuring it without putting a hole in it. Will have to do some homework on that one.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:32 PM   #23
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Pick any opening and adapt it so it can be pressurized, have a gauge, and be sealed...plug the rest.

But to make it easier for regular monitoring , it should be easy.

on my old ones, I could shutoff the fuel takeoffs easy. I would then have put a ball valve in each fill and just put a tee in the vent where you could shut it off, and have a quick connect to plug in a hookup to a compressor and have a gauge.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:59 PM   #24
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Pressure testing a questionable tank could have disastrous consequences. Turn off your bilge pumps, get out of the engine compartment and get yourself a healthy insurance policy for diesel spill. 3-5lb. pressure through a few micron size holes will drive fuel through your skin. If the tank is already weak, failure could be catastrophic.
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Old 02-05-2015, 04:06 PM   #25
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Like most things in life...if you don't know the whole story....educate yourself on it....proceed when satisfied.

How many things on TF are completely described down to every safety detail an possibility?
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:14 PM   #26
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Changed my tanks after having tanks cleaned which broke off rust inside the tanks which then leaked.Had two repairs then bit the bullet to replace them. Removed as much as I could in engine room,set up a-frame in saloon . Had tanks degassed, cut them up with many saws-all blades. Had a build up of crap and goo at bottom which had rusted thru tank. Had tanks made for $5,000.00 ,had to have them made 1inch smaller so they would fit thru window which was shaped like the tanks. After tank removal I lifted engine up and over other while bringing tank into saloon then install tank setting it in place then lower engine back into place. Would install that engine and start disconnecting other, then repeat . This was done in two weekends with help and working after work till the yard would close. This was done on a Jefferson 45 with twin Perkins .
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