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Old 09-30-2013, 05:54 PM   #1
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A25 storage on boat stands

I am thinking seriously of having Manatee hauled home ftom the marina for winter storage - so I can perform work on her more conveniently and as well to save a few dollars. I'll tarp it rather than shrink. I have to get some of those pyramidal boat stands and put together some keel blocking.

Can I get away with 2 stands and 2 blocks? Rule books says 4, but I see plenty of boats on 2 stands.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:10 PM   #2
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There are a lot of boats in our marina that are either on 4 stands or 2 stands in the front and 2 blocks in the back. I use 6 stands and also block the keel in at least 4 spots. With full fuel tanks and a heavy engine it is important IMO to spread the weight out as much as possible.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:38 PM   #3
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I'm going to see if a local carpenter can knock together a cradle. No way do I want to buy 4 stands for over $500.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:17 PM   #4
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Ask OFB (Old Fish Boat) to post some pics of fuel drum stands. Some on this forum think they are Mickey Mouse but if placed right they are fine. Seen a lot of them over the years. The trick is knowing where to place the wood dunnage and wedges.
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:04 PM   #5
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Still a bit more shoring up to do. But at least she's home safe.
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:45 PM   #6
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Sunset,
Thanks for the pic as I love to look at the A25. Especially her hull.

Sure wish I was close as I have 6 jack stands and haven't used them.

Did you get w OFB? He has pics of stands utilizing 55 gal oil drums. With good blocks of wood and wedges safe stands can be made. I see you have 2 aft. Another pair amidships should do it but I'd set up 4 more. Remember the jack stands aren't holding up the boat. That's the job of the keel supports. The outbd stands are only to insure the boat dosn't tip either way. Adjust the oil drum stands from time to time and adjust w wedges. You should be able to move around in the boat w very very little movement.
PS I just looked back at your picture and think I'd put two more keel supports under the keel. Do all you can to insure they all support the same (approx) weight. If nothing else you can be very watchful of how hard you're tapping/driving the wedges. You could use the 2 wedges you have fwd w a chain under the keel tying the 2 jack stands together. Put up a pair of drum stands and move your stands fwd. Or just buy 2 more jack stands.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:02 PM   #7
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Thanks mb. Rather than oil cans (not so very easy to find as I've looked for one for a burn barrel) I am thinking of using upright 2x6 spruce buried a few inches in ground and staked, and up top, wedged under the gunwale/rub rail lip. I am also going to add another block wedged under the keel below the engine.

Then the fun work begins in a race against snow and ice!
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:03 PM   #8
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OK, here's what I've done. I bought 2 used stands for the front area, linked by chain to prevent any side-slip; placed 3 sets of blocks under the keel; and stabilized the stern area with PT 2X5 wedged under the gunwale. These I further secured with 2 1X4 strapping, again to prevent slippage of the planks. Shrink over the cabin top. We'll insert a zip door on the port side of the shrink this weekend so I can work inside in the off-season. Signed up for a CPS electrics course for November (4 weekly evenings).

FYI the strapping is ahead of the bow block, not on top of it - the pic is deceiving in that regard.
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:47 PM   #9
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This is one reason we had a trailer for our A25 when we owned her. Winter storage at our house for repairs etc, no moorage fees, ability to launch wherever we wanted and a very nice apartment for reading and relaxing.
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:45 AM   #10
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The guy that bought my A25 had a trailer made for it in Tampa. I think it was around $4500.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:30 AM   #11
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I'm always on the lookout for a trailer in the used market. Of course I am also mindful that a trailer implies the additional purchase of a vehicle that can pull the rig and I am not keen to go there just now. I am happy cruising the 1000 Islands while working full time, so the $450 cost of seasonal hauling (each way) is an acceptable solution for now.
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