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Old 12-03-2014, 10:47 AM   #41
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My dink is mounted on the top as you plan. It is a PITA even with an electric crane. It adds weight up top which worsens stability. I have to get up top walking around the dink to maneuver it and just never feel comfortable high up without rails.


I would really prefer it mounted on the foredeck.
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:48 AM   #42
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Do you know what weight the top can carry?
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Old 12-03-2014, 11:00 AM   #43
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I suggest considering an electric crane. Even with winches a dink is heavy and in wind it is nice to have a hand free to steady the dink.
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Old 12-03-2014, 11:50 AM   #44
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I'm probably going with davits . It sounds like a real pain to get the dinghy down from the roof . When Larry photo shopped the davits they looked better than I thought they would .
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Old 12-03-2014, 02:36 PM   #45
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On all the outboards I have used, from 4hp up to 90, putting the motor in gear locks the prop. So when towing, putting the motor in gear will eliminate having the prop freewheel, so no bearing wear will occur.
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:01 PM   #46
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A lot of the "big" boys tow some of their larger toys. Here's the 164' yacht Imagine off of St. Marteens and two that we didn't get their names. Mostly it was engines up.
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:59 PM   #47
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Pac Mule,
If you can justify the added moorage davits seem to be best.

Perhaps of interest is a minimalist system I used on my Albin. Don't have a picture. I bolted two tapered 2x6 spars flat to the stern deck corners. About a foot on the corners on the deck and 3' or 4' out aft of the transom. These two spars horizontal w the deck supported the dinghy. To launch I'd stand on a corner of the deck, picking up the bow of the dink and sliding it outboard on the other deck spar. Didn't ship any water launching stern first. Pulling up the dink was a bit more difficult but I really liked the setup. Never fell in the drink either. Very simple and basically no visibility lost aft. Looked over the dink and it was plenty high enough for rough weather. Went to Alaska w this setup and used the dink often.
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Old 12-05-2014, 03:28 PM   #48
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Hi... A newbie to the forum and will post some intro info but ran across this davit post and wanted to pass along a good link w/ some ideas & good pics...

Steve Cyr a forum member has a great website resource at Customizing Take a peek at his davit project.

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Old 12-11-2014, 07:11 AM   #49
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Google ,,,simpson laurence davits.

These are nice looking and will handle most dinks.

We use them on our 90/90 ,inshore, and they are a delight

Lift the dink EVERY night and it will be there in the AM,
if it rains pull the plug rather than bail the dink.

On an inland trip the dink aft in davits is a great place for the garbage bags , if you anchor out a lot.

They can be shoe mounted for rapid removal , should you O nite in a $5.00 ft LOA tie up place.

Save $25 , tax free ,for 2 min of effort , works for me!

You may have to rethink your Man Overboard drill with the dink carried in davits.

Ours is to hit the davit release levers, and let the dink drop, and the MOB climb up the stern ladder.

The winch from the davit could be used to retrieve the MOB should he be hurting.
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Old 02-20-2015, 06:54 AM   #50
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Finally got my material ordered for building some davits . I couldn't find anyone here in the sticks that could bend a large radius from heavy wall stainless tubing . Keep your fingers crossed that they turn out . There is a welder/ farmer here in town that builds custom headers and exhaust for hot rods for fun . He hasn't ever built any davits but he is going to give it his best shot . He built my anchor roller . Ugly davits can ruin the look .
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:57 AM   #51
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Just getting started .
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Old 03-03-2015, 03:00 PM   #52
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I thought of that PackMule but wonder if having the bracing outside the bend would be better. Then it would be in tension instead of compression. Well the little struts would be in compression. I've got too many other things to think about and do now. I'll keep watching you while I play or fight w my stupid rubber duckie.
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Old 03-03-2015, 03:23 PM   #53
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The tubing for the arm is 2" od with 1/8" wall thickness . I wanted a large radius instead of the sharp 90 but couldn't get it bent . Trying to hide the look somewhat of the sharp 90 . Maybe it will come together in the end.
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:07 PM   #54
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A good fit up and clean weld out should have it looking snazzy
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:26 PM   #55
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Marty....just a reminder that any inner reinforcement that reduces the inner radius of the davit will take up space where the side of your dinghy cannot penetrate, and its edge will ride against the reinforcement. That's probably why Eric was talking about the outer reinforcement.
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Old 03-03-2015, 07:28 PM   #56
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Thanks Eric and Larry ,
I think I have allowed enough length in the arms for this plus the fact that my pickup points on the dinghy not as wide as the centerline of the beam by about 6" or more and also the length of my purchase blocks and rigging , but I still have my fingers crossed .
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:30 PM   #57
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Fit a plate filler inside the 90 deg bend , poke a hole in it for looks and install a cleat to tie off the hauling lines.
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Old 03-08-2015, 06:47 PM   #58
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I know you may not choose this, however , have you considered the option of adding a swim step for the many conveniences it offers and then Weaver davits are a neat option . I have used this for my hard bottom inflatable and I just cannot imagine my being without a swim step. But, I also usually tow an older whaler for fishing, crabbing etc.

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Old 03-08-2015, 07:59 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
Fit a plate filler inside the 90 deg bend , poke a hole in it for looks and install a cleat to tie off the hauling lines.
FF I'm adding cleats to the davits . Also looking forward to getting those teak blocks from you
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:01 PM   #60
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RNL I plan adding a swim step sometime in the future , just not in this years budget . By the way I love your KK 42 .
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