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Old 10-16-2018, 07:02 AM   #21
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Some ALZ people can communicate in the morning. Maybe ask his caregivers about his cycle.


I helped with a motor swap on a sailboat. We built inside the boat with plywood to protect everything and it was still a juggling and contortion act. We had a lumber trolley type rig and slid on greased rails. Aim to do this only once.
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:29 AM   #22
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Also, a 6.354 is about 1300-1400lb in full dress with gear. Stripped down to skinny status, basic engine likely about 1000-1100lb. Not one ton.
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Old 10-16-2018, 02:51 PM   #23
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That video was helpful hope I can get this done gonna try the door route thanks for all advice gonna try and do it in the water first I will keep everyone updated if I get it into salon I got it shame the door is not 24 inches wide it would be done by now I talked to Jay Bettis he said he thinks it can be done through the door so wish me luck not this weekend but next it’s gonna happen any more ideas please feel free to advise
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Old 10-16-2018, 02:52 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
Also, a 6.354 is about 1300-1400lb in full dress with gear. Stripped down to skinny status, basic engine likely about 1000-1100lb. Not one ton.
Thanks
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Old 10-16-2018, 02:53 PM   #25
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Thanks
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Old 10-22-2018, 01:07 PM   #26
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Just a thought, can you rig a cantilevered beam across those piles on the other side of the dock to sling the engine across to your boat?

As to getting it in, a friend had to go through his windshield when he needed to get a large object (a washer in his case) inside the boat.

Have you checked with the folks over on the Defever owners forum? I would bet there is someone there who has already done this.

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Old 10-22-2018, 01:35 PM   #27
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Take whatever coolers, alternators, starters, filters, manifolds, etc, off engine as needed to get it skinny. 1 1/2" of clearance is plenty, provided you measure very carefully. You can make a wooden jig out of 2x4 that is the same gap as your door opening and make sure you can guide the jig down the whole length of the engine.

I don't like doing this in the water dockside as tides and wakes play havoc with rigging. Can be done, but be super careful. An engine getting loose can do a lot of damage to it, boat and people.

If you want to use the side door (and that is the way I would try) consider moving everything to a dry stack marina and renting their fork truck. Usually $100 covers it as long as you don't hold them up.

This plus. The rear housing may also need to come off depending on how wide it is. Also don't over look how much the boat will lean when you put that much weight on one side.
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Old 10-22-2018, 04:15 PM   #28
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What I did:

My side door, positioned where yours is, is 27" wide.
To make my Volvo TMD40 (outgoing) <27" I removed the Heat Exchanger, Exhaust Elbow, Alternator. You may also need to remove the Starter, Trans cooler, and anything else that will get you down to <20".
My TAMD41 (incoming) also lost Aftercooler.

My boat was stabilized by a haulout and parking where a HIAB truck had access.
The HIAB operator was good enough that in 3 hours he had two engines out, two in, through the door and down through the openings in the floor, resting on the mounts.
The awkward part was getting the engine nearest to the door to come up through the opening in the floor, as the HIAB didn't have enough room to swing forward. That problem was solved by leaving the port transmission in the hole, shortening the load by 18" or so. You don't have your trans attached(?) so don't need as much room fore and aft in the hatch space. Plus, if you are in the water, you might be able to snake the boat fwd or aft to accomplish the placement of the engine once through the door.

You just need a crane on the dock, stable enough to lift and move the engine through the door. Or better yet, get the boat out of the water, then use a HIAB or a forklift.
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Old 10-22-2018, 04:41 PM   #29
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Hi Harlyguynola. First, congratulations on acquiring a DeFever (Down East) 40. There were only about 30 built before Down East folded in 1983. I also have a '79 and have only seen one other. Mine's a single screw and was their brochure boat. Mine unfortunately came originally with a very odd Ford SSD-655M engine that was made by Fiat-Iveco and was nearly impossible to find parts for. I re-powered the boat two years ago with an old/new Cummins 6B. I did about 95% of the work and got help from the boat yard as needed.



So if I understand everything, one of the original engines were removed some time ago and wasn't part of the boat package. You now have a replacement engine and need to get it in. Are you planning to do this installation yourself or have a boatyard do the work? If you are going to do much of the work yourself, you will still need to be on the hard with the right equipment to put the engine in through the port side door between the stove and refrigerator.



I'm a real DIY guy with good mechanical skills and tools. If your cabin floor was already cut to allow the original engine to be pulled out, then you have a good start. On my boat, I had to cut nearly the entire cabin floor out to get the engine and transmission assembly up and into the main cabin. I used the yard's "A" frame set up in the cabin to lift the engine and trans up and then removed all accessories, manifold, heat exchanger, whatever it took to get it narrow enough to pass through that 19 1/2" door opening. I also had to removed the port handrail. The yard used a long boom attachment that slid onto their forklift. The engine had to be chained close to the boom in-order to take it out over the caprail. So your replacement engine will also need to be stripped down to get it in. I know of no other reasonable way to do it. A reputable boatyard will know how to do it. It's a big job. Let me know if I can be of help.
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remwines View Post
Hi Harlyguynola. First, congratulations on acquiring a DeFever (Down East) 40. There were only about 30 built before Down East folded in 1983. I also have a '79 and have only seen one other. Mine's a single screw and was their brochure boat. Mine unfortunately came originally with a very odd Ford SSD-655M engine that was made by Fiat-Iveco and was nearly impossible to find parts for. I re-powered the boat two years ago with an old/new Cummins 6B. I did about 95% of the work and got help from the boat yard as needed.



So if I understand everything, one of the original engines were removed some time ago and wasn't part of the boat package. You now have a replacement engine and need to get it in. Are you planning to do this installation yourself or have a boatyard do the work? If you are going to do much of the work yourself, you will still need to be on the hard with the right equipment to put the engine in through the port side door between the stove and refrigerator.



I'm a real DIY guy with good mechanical skills and tools. If your cabin floor was already cut to allow the original engine to be pulled out, then you have a good start. On my boat, I had to cut nearly the entire cabin floor out to get the engine and transmission assembly up and into the main cabin. I used the yard's "A" frame set up in the cabin to lift the engine and trans up and then removed all accessories, manifold, heat exchanger, whatever it took to get it narrow enough to pass through that 19 1/2" door opening. I also had to removed the port handrail. The yard used a long boom attachment that slid onto their forklift. The engine had to be chained close to the boom in-order to take it out over the caprail. So your replacement engine will also need to be stripped down to get it in. I know of no other reasonable way to do it. A reputable boatyard will know how to do it. It's a big job. Let me know if I can be of help.


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ID:	82229 I am going to try and do this while in the water pull my boat sideways with port side door center the end of my dock take section of railings down and trim around door opening move fridge and side panel out something I am already sured up floor transmission is still in place the starboard side engine is fine and runs like new port side is the one that needs to be replaced I was thinking long 2x12 with kind of see-saw with engine hoist to lift with sliding the engine down holding back with come a long once in rig 20ft beam I have from top of port dash to where fridge is with beam to ceiling using bottom of beam with beam crane with swivel snatch off salon floor guide it over and down then I have to roll it back and onto stringers then pry up onto mounts before I do I will have to reassemble bell housing alternator starter water pump coolers manifolds heat exchangers wiring then bolt it to transmission i have already completely painted and insulated rewired complete engineroom over haul then a weeks worth of electrical left booking up three inverters and all controls to run genset and we head to the Bahamas lol
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Old 10-23-2018, 06:47 AM   #31
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Via side window

I have replaced old Volvo Penta engines with dual new Nanni Kubota via side window. By tying the engine between the crane forks, we were able to fit them through the window without cutting the wood nor fiberglass. With Volvo engines the clearance was less than an inch. Kubota was less tall by 1.5 inches. No disassembly of the engines was necessary as my Island Gypsy 44 has pretty large windows.
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Old 10-23-2018, 06:24 PM   #32
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Hi Harlyguynola. I see from your interior pictures that the original fiberglass refrigerator enclosure has been removed, so you will have more room than I did to swing the engine once inside. Looks like you've got a plan. Like Ski was saying earlier, "An engine getting loose can do a lot of damage to it, boat and people." Have plenty of safety measures in place to restrain that engine and people out of the way. And please post some pictures. I am particularly interested because these boats are far a few between. My DF40 is still pretty much as built, but with new electronic. I enjoyed looking at some of the interior upgrades that have been done to yours. BTW, I have many of the original full blueprints from these boats, including the AC and DC wiring for the single and twin engine models. Let me know if you need anything.
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Old 10-24-2018, 08:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
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Hi Harlyguynola. I see from your interior pictures that the original fiberglass refrigerator enclosure has been removed, so you will have more room than I did to swing the engine once inside. Looks like you've got a plan. Like Ski was saying earlier, "An engine getting loose can do a lot of damage to it, boat and people." Have plenty of safety measures in place to restrain that engine and people out of the way. And please post some pictures. I am particularly interested because these boats are far a few between. My DF40 is still pretty much as built, but with new electronic. I enjoyed looking at some of the interior upgrades that have been done to yours. BTW, I have many of the original full blueprints from these boats, including the AC and DC wiring for the single and twin engine models. Let me know if you need anything.


Awesome great and yes I will send you video and pics I have new plan my neighbor is F1 race driver for many years holds many national championships drives for Sheik of Dubai we actually grew up together he came up with great plan gonna move my 25ft Chaparral out of sling he has 30ft I beam gonna take straps off of cables that lift boat and mount top of beam using bolts and L brackets on bottom using 2500lb trolly with 2500lb hoist snatching engine off of dock pulling boat port side center of slip so beam lines up with center of door sticking end of beam in port side door then gliding engine through door swinging like you said because I am going to remove the fridge and panel inside setting engine down then I am going to have another beam bow to stern over hatch cutting floor about 2ft back of hatch over engine mounts on beam inside putting same trolly and hoist on beam inside snatching back up off floor and lower onto motor mounts of course shoring up floor to support weight and a Aframe at each end of beam as high as I can get it oh btw here’s my phone number call me because I put macerator in engine room and moved 10 kw Isuzu generator with limamac back in lazaret so I would like to see what you have 985 768 6019 my name is Tim Click image for larger version

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Old 10-24-2018, 09:23 PM   #34
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Greetings,
Mr. H. Holy moley! That sounds like a PLAN! You HAVE to video the whole process. It will go viral on U-Tube.


PLEASE be careful.
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:09 PM   #35
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Videos indeed Seriously, good luck with the install. oh, and punctuation - our Faulkner would be proud
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:13 PM   #36
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Everybody's weighing in with good advice.
My two penn'orth would be to strip down the engine, alternators etc to reduce not only the size but the weight for easier handling.
Get some old foam rubber and tape it around door edges etc to prevent any damage.
If it were mine I'd go to a service shipyard as SKI suggests.
There's a time and a place to save a few bucks and this ain't the time.
Take loads of photo's at each stage, write down a rough copy each stage, you can tidy that up later and build a file for future reference.
Surprising how many small things you will forget over time.
I've seen many jobs made over complicated so measure twice cut once, and make haste slowly.
Good Luck with the project.
p.s Put some cold ones in the fridge for the evening post mortem.
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:35 PM   #37
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Everybody's weighing in with good advice.
My two penn'orth would be to strip down the engine, alternators etc to reduce not only the size but the weight for easier handling.
Get some old foam rubber and tape it around door edges etc to prevent any damage.
If it were mine I'd go to a service shipyard as SKI suggests.
There's a time and a place to save a few bucks and this ain't the time.
Take loads of photo's at each stage, write down a rough copy each stage, you can tidy that up later and build a file for future reference.
Surprising how many small things you will forget over time.
I've seen many jobs made over complicated so measure twice cut once, and make haste slowly.
Good Luck with the project.
p.s Put some cold ones in the fridge for the evening post mortem.


Thanks will post pics I got this have great help it’s going to be tight but it’s going in
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:58 PM   #38
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You'll get there, don't worry.
The post mortem write up and photo's are good to look back on and also show service records/repairs for any future owner.

I really love my boat but it's a material thing and it will outlast me and have to be sold one day.
Maybe my son will wait until all the works finished with nothing more to do except enjoy life, then wander along and say 'Hey Pops I've been thinking'
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Old 10-25-2018, 07:47 AM   #39
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Best tool for engine removal, saws all. It’s fiberglass, mate. When building our 34’ sport fish boats, no large engine hatch. For major engine problems or removal, just saw a large enough hole in the deck, and the roof if need be. Found it much easier to repair the hole than all the bs of trying to fit it through doors and hatches.
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:39 AM   #40
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I have a 1974 DeFever Passagemaker 40. Replaced the motors and the fuel tanks in 2007. The yard had a contraption that attached to the travel lift that
had an articulating arm. I've attached a few pictures.
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