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Old 02-18-2015, 12:29 PM   #41
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Budget in $1K per month (on 32' to 45' good condition used boat).

Do most work yourself; as well, don't go crazy purchasing needless accessories/upgrades or hiring-out too many work needs... if you do, then avg of $2 to $3K + can become reality.

Those are real figures if you have a boat already in good condition. If boat is in poor condition... well then... $$$ expense has virtually no limit! You will be the proud owner of a "sink hole"!

Some times the unexpected BIG cost-chunk will suddenly pop-up. But if averaged out over ten yr period and budgeted correctly... it basically levels off to approx $1k monthly.
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Old 02-20-2015, 08:28 AM   #42
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My expenses for repairs are watermaker, usually several hundred per year. Genset averaging $600 per year, 2013 was $3,500 for new back end, but usually hoses, heat exchanger, impellers, exhaust elbow, solenoid, redo of sound cabinet. Radios, one per year, either handheld, fixed (have three), or SSB something always goes wrong. Engines, replaced two Racor housings in last three years. Replaced much of the fuel hose. New fuel tanks 2012. Varnish, every year. Bottom paint (Caribbean paint lasts two years). Navigation computer every five years. Wind generator, new circuit board every other year ($350). Refrigeration, new units every 12 years, cost $350 per year. Zincs probably $40 - $70 per year. Anchor chain, every eight years, $200 per year. Batteries, every five - six years, $375 per year. Blinds, every 10 years, $150 per year. Fabric on the cushions, every 10 years, $250 per year. Galley, head faucets, every 10 years, $50 per year. Throw rugs, every other year, $150 per year. Solar panels, every 10/15 years. $100 per year. Routine maintenance on stabilizers $300 per year. Insurance - varies on location $2000 to $5000 per year. Bow thruster, wiring maintenance service $100 per year.

Lighting bulbs, wiring, updates, $100 per year.

List goes on and on. The boat is more expensive then our home and I am doing most of the work.
Really appreciate the input. Would really like to find and move aboard a trawler for a couple of years or longer. Trying to get a handle on how deep my pockets need to be.
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Old 02-20-2015, 08:36 AM   #43
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Typically and very generally...

The bigger the boat the more systems there are. The more systems there are the more failure points there are. Boat parts are either sold by the carat or Troy ounce depending upon where you buy them. Hire someone to do the work for you and they can be considered a dependent on your year end tax forms.

Everything on your boat is broken, you just haven't found out about it yet.
I can identify with your last statement. I have a sport cruiser now and looking to move up (in my mind) to a slower more comfortable hole in the water to pour my money into. Thx!
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Old 02-20-2015, 08:42 AM   #44
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JDCAVE,

What are you referring to when you say, "water in fashion plates"?

Thanks, Mike



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Old 02-20-2015, 09:42 AM   #45
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JDCAVE,

What are you referring to when you say, "water in fashion plates"?

Thanks, Mike



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Old 02-20-2015, 09:47 AM   #46
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..."water in fashion plates"?

We talking beautiful women here???
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Old 02-20-2015, 10:06 AM   #47
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One last Reflection

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDCAVE View Post
We closed our deal for our KK42 June 2013 at under $200k. 1985, hull 90. New fuel tanks, teak on the fore and side decks removed, immaculate engine room, recent blister peel and epoxy job, raised helm and impeccably rewired helm, new fridge and freezer.

WRT the comments about rot in the bulkheads. Use your nose. If the boat smells misty stay away. Ours has no musty odor.

Yes, you can buy an excellent kk42 for under $200k. But it's important to get on lots of them to understand what is out there. Be patient and don't jump at the first one you get on?

My shipwright told me to figure on 10-15% per year on the purchase price to maintain an older boat. That's been close for us.

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Jim, pretty much has it spot on.

We paid just above $200k for our 1988. It had very low hours and had had the foredeck and a total bottom job done the year before.

In addition, the PO had paid to keep the maintenance totally up to date, so that meant virtually all the critical hoses on the boat were near new, and he had put a new Raritan Lectroscan system in for both heads.

So in the first two years and 1700 engine hours, we have spent virtually nothing on "repairs". I really can't think of anything that broke on it's own. Meaning, there are a few minor things that I broke.

Other than routine maintenance, I have replaced the fan belt and impeller once and replaced the three heat exchangers since i didn't know how old they were and kept them as spares.

And Jim, also mentions a very important point, get the boat with the stuff you want on it already done.

i spent a lot on adding stuff I wanted for ocean crossings and other "dubious", in hindsight upgrades.

Had I been far less picky about many things, other than the fuel polishing and transfer system and the paravane stabilizers, our boat could have made this trip without all the other money I spent.

Routine maintenance has cost less than $2k per year, insurance $1k, fuel about $1/nm and marinas were my biggest extravagance in the first year, this last 12 months, has averaged about $300 / month.
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Old 02-20-2015, 10:38 AM   #48
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Quote:
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JDCAVE,

What are you referring to when you say, "water in fashion plates"?

Thanks, Mike



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Mike
I think the fashion plates are the uprights between the side deck handrails and the boat deck. They look like they would be structural but I believe they are cosmetic covers over the actual structure. Is that right JDCave??

Tom
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Old 02-20-2015, 10:59 AM   #49
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In agreement with JD and Wx post # 47... I just want to mention...

In the nearly 7 years we have owned our Tolly there have been relatively minor breakdowns; i.e. $125 freshwater pump, $160 fuel pump for gen-set, starter button and solenoid for elect toilet are all that come to mind. As well during second year we accomplished a planned $600 replacement of batts. Reason so few “boat-dollars” spent is that we knew the boat was in great condition before we laid cash on the table. Of course it is a 38 yr. old 1977 34' tri cabin boat and there have been a few items such as rail stanchion base fasteners I needed to tend and some window seals needing attention… but I knew that was going to occur. The rest of what I've/we've done or added was not needed but rather what we felt like doing/having. Other than that, general maintenance - and - play, baby, play!

Point I want to make is that if used cruiser is carefully surveyed prior to purchase there are goodies available.

One more point: I knew at purchase that both heads needed toilet work. From that I received applicable discount on an already very reasonable agreed purchase price. First thing I did once purchase had closed was hire a marine sanitation expert to accomplish needs apparent. His cost fell right in line with the discount I'd received. Actually, I had a few hundred bucks left over!

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Old 02-20-2015, 07:32 PM   #50
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Mike
I think the fashion plates are the uprights between the side deck handrails and the boat deck. They look like they would be structural but I believe they are cosmetic covers over the actual structure. Is that right JDCave??

Tom
Exactly
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Old 02-20-2015, 09:26 PM   #51
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I currently own a 24 year old boat, and there's always something wrong with the damned thing. That's what worries me, I guess.
Here's something that bears thinking about. Just about all the stuff that breaks on a boat is not stuff the manufacturer made. Grand Banks, Krogen, Nordic Tug, Fleming you name it--- made the hull and the decks and the superstructure and the cabinetry. Probalby the cabin floors, too. and maybe the doors. Everything else--- engine(s), door knobs, generator, toilets, batteries, fresh water pump, refrigerator, instruments, radar, rudder bearings, prop shaft(s), cutless bearings, transmissions, circuit breakers, wire, cable connectors, window glass, compass, sink faucets, light fixtures, anchor windlass-- all the stuff that actually wears out or breaks, was made by other companies.

So it's very likely that some of the things that are crapping out on your current boat will be the same things that are on a Krogen.

A manufacturer can select top-of-the-line components or middle-of the-road components or not-so-great components, and that will defeinitely have an overall effect on the reliability of the boat. But the boat's manufacturer is not a guarantee of no or minimal problems. With a used boat, partilularly an older one, the previous owner(s) of the boat you buy will have had a whole lot more impact on the reliability of your boat than what the manufacturer did way back when.

When I asked the captain/manager of a 120' corporate yacht I was associated with for awhile, a gorgeous Philip Rhodes-designed, Abbeking & Rasmussen-built steel vessel that had been built in 1966, if his vessel was harder to maintain than the brand new 200' yacht at the next pier over, he said:

"Everything on that new boat is going to wear out and break just like everything on this boat is wearing out and is going to break because it's basically all the same stuff. The only difference is that right now, everything on that boat is new. So he's got a bit of time to relax before he has to start fixing things."

As Al (Flywright) suggested some posts back, what you really plan to use the boat for should be the more important guide to what brand of boat will be best. As opposed to starting out wanting a particular brand and then forcing it to fit your plans.

Obviously if someone really wants a Krogen no matter what, they they should probalby buy a Krogen or they won't be happy. Then they'll have to fit the Krogen to their boating plans.

Sometimes--- probably a lot of times--- the desired brand of boat also fits the boating plan. The PNW is a good example of that. Up here even if all one can afford is a log, it can provide some great "cruising" adventures in the islands. So Krogen, Grand Banks, Tollycraft, Nordic Tug, Fleming, Bayliner, you name it--- they all work great. A Florida coast, tuna-towered sportfisherman maybe not so much.

I've always regarded buying a boat--- or anything really--- to be the same as buying a computer. Figure out what you want to do with it, what programs you want to run and what you want to accomplish with them, and then buy the best computer for running those programs.

As opposed to buying a computer and then figuring out how to make what it does fit what you want to do.
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Old 02-21-2015, 11:01 AM   #52
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Quote:
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Mike

I think the fashion plates are the uprights between the side deck handrails and the boat deck. They look like they would be structural but I believe they are cosmetic covers over the actual structure. Is that right JDCave??



Tom

That was all I could think of, but wasn't sure. Thanks.


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Old 02-21-2015, 12:39 PM   #53
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Yes the "Fashion Plates" are the two panels along the side deck(s). Not my terminology, but if you come across this term, that's what they are. There used to be some great photos and "how to" links available on the internet, but sadly these are no longer available. This is the only link I could find of someone working on them.

http://mvbroulee.blogspot.ca/2010_04_01_archive.html

I have a hard copy newsletter on the boat of how to work on them.



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Old 02-23-2015, 07:15 AM   #54
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Yes the "Fashion Plates" are the two panels along the side deck(s). Not my terminology, but if you come across this term, that's what they are. There used to be some great photos and "how to" links available on the internet, but sadly these are no longer available. This is the only link I could find of someone working on them.

http://mvbroulee.blogspot.ca/2010_04_01_archive.html

I have a hard copy newsletter on the boat of how to work on them.



Jim
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Thanks Jim.


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