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Old 12-27-2018, 05:39 AM   #1
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Bottom Paint

Need to bottom paint my KK-39. The choices are hard paint or self polishing paint, specifically Pettit Trinidad PRO or Cukote respectively. I need to decide which is the best option and why? I would appreciate any experience-based advice.

Thank you
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:02 AM   #2
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For a slower boat like your KK-39 I think that ablative paints are better. They won't build up a thick layer over time, can be hauled and relaunched with no affect on their performance and I think they work better than hard paints. Also consider the water based Trinidad Hydrocoat SR- better on the environment.


For a fast planing boat it is better to use hard paints as an ablative will quickly be worn off


David
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:04 AM   #3
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I had Southerly bottom painted in Freeport Bahamas. Charlton Knowels marina. 7 year paint (different regulations in the Bahamas). Great guy and I am very pleased. So are my divers.
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:58 AM   #4
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If you haul ever season I’d go with an ablative as David mentioned. If the boat stays in the water year around, I’d go with a hard.

We use a hard now and can go 2.5-3 years between painting. The bottom gets cleaned on a regular basis. When we had an ablative, in warm water, with regularly cleaning, we only get about 18 months before the paint is gone.

If you have an ablative and then want to switch to a hard, most paint manufacturers want all the ablative removed before you can apply a hard paint so that’s a consideration.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:28 AM   #5
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Thanks folks.


The bottom has had ablative paint on at least for the past four years. I just bought this boat recently with a few small blisters (otherwise in very good condition) which were discovered during the survey. To take care of the blisters, we will have all the old paint stripped to do the necessary repairs. Since we will be starting with a clean bottom and, would like to do some long cruising next year, that is why the alternative bottom paint is being considered.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:43 AM   #6
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If you are going down to bare fiberglass then you should put on an epoxy barrier coat before the bottom paint.
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Old 12-27-2018, 03:08 PM   #7
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If you are going down to bare fiberglass then you should put on an epoxy barrier coat before the bottom paint.
Yup, do it now so you donít have to strip the bottom again. Interprotect 2000 by Interlux would be my choice. Their Microplate technology does work.

Iíd use an ablative / self polishing on your boat.

No mater what paint you choose be sure it has an anti-slime compound in it. Pettit paints with anti-slime are labeled SR. Interlux adds a chemical they call Biolux on the label. I donít know what Sea Hawk calls theirs.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:20 PM   #8
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It is CUKOTE that i used on my Manatee,,,,,I also add more copper powder and very hot pepper powder in the paint. It lasted over 3 years so I recently repeated the the same.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gahmadi View Post
...The bottom has had ablative paint on at least for the past four years. I just bought this boat recently with a few small blisters (otherwise in very good condition) which were discovered during the survey. To take care of the blisters, we will have all the old paint stripped to do the necessary repairs...
No need to strip the whole hull to fix "a few small blisters". Unless there are other reasons to strip, like a/f build up or adhesion problems, you just repair the blisters,prime the repair,and reapply antifoul. For compatibility, it helps to know what is on there already.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:59 PM   #10
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It is CUKOTE that i used on my Manatee,,,,,I also add more copper powder and very hot pepper powder in the paint. It lasted over 3 years so I recently repeated the the same.
The hot pepper does nothing and adding copper powder in the U.S is illegal.
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Old 12-27-2018, 05:31 PM   #11
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I am currently having Magic painted with Cukote. What tipped me in that direction is the 1-year warranty against hard growth. The product must be applied by an approved yard. If you have hard growth and take it to an approved yard my understanding is they will cover everything to redo the painting. The details are on the Seahawk website.
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Old 12-27-2018, 05:44 PM   #12
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Red pepper, copper powder, terramycin all greatly improve bottom paint. The paint manufactures donít want you to know that because they would sell less paint!

Oh yeah, the Earth is flat and the Moon landing was faked.
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Old 12-27-2018, 06:54 PM   #13
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Red pepper, copper powder, terramycin all greatly improve bottom paint. The paint manufactures donít want you to know that because they would sell less paint!

Oh yeah, the Earth is flat and the Moon landing was faked.
OMG HopCar, Terramycin? You are as old as me!
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:32 PM   #14
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OMG HopCar, Terramycin? You are as old as me!
Oh yeah, Iím that old. I remember that a marine company actually sold little veils of terramycin to add to bottom paint.

Donít forget to put magnets in your fuel filter to kill the bacteria and improve your mileage.
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Old 12-27-2018, 09:23 PM   #15
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My boat is on the hard in NJ, how long between stripping bottom paint and barrier coating? Will a few months of winter allow the hull to dry?
No blisters just too many coats of paint.
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Old 12-27-2018, 09:56 PM   #16
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I started with the ablative Micron and was very disappointed. It works great on my charter boat that cruises at 15 knots. At 7 knots on the trawler, it doesn't ablade well. Only time it sheds is when the diver scrubs it. Sanded it off and went with Petit Trinadad SR (yard version). The yard version is the same paint as Trinidad SR except it's only available to boatyards at about $100 less per gallon. Petit's logic is that there's no marketing cost so they sell it cheaper and the boatyard can be more competitive on bottom jobs while still getting a good markup on the paint. Hope to get 3 to 4 years out of it.

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Old 12-27-2018, 10:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
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My boat is on the hard in NJ, how long between stripping bottom paint and barrier coating? Will a few months of winter allow the hull to dry?
No blisters just too many coats of paint.
Greg
It depends on a lot of things, how wet is the hull, how much humidity is in the air and what temperature is around the boat. The hull will dry out quicker if the boat is in a dry warm area. But if you are going to strip it you should barrier coat it if it isnít already.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:59 PM   #18
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Here is a 2014 article on a number of AF products in Australia. Interesting takeaways are that the more expensive, or higher copper content paints, are not necessarily better performing.

http://www.pacificpaintandfibreglass...ember-2014.pdf

Some of the AF tested are no longer available. I had been using CuKote while the boat was in the PNW. On bringing it to Australia I started using Micron Extra. Performance was adequate at best. In March this year I changed to Jotun Seavictor 50. It seems very good, so far!
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Old 12-28-2018, 01:22 AM   #19
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Greg should probably start his own thread about his individual hull query, but if it has no blisters and simply has an excessive antifouling paint buildup needing removal, why would it be wet and need to dry out? Subject to the requirements for recoating it should be good to work on after the water used to wash it down evaporates.
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:04 AM   #20
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Delfin was just sandblasted to remove all barrier coat and layers and layers of bottom paint. After a whole lot of discussion and research, I went with Interlux epoxy coat and their Interspeed bottom paint. This is a semi-ablative paint, so it will slough, but not quite as quickly. It is the same system the U.S. Navy uses on many of their boats, and Interlux's technical rep was helpful in inspecting the work as it progressed in the yard. I asked him about modifications of the paint (more copper, etc.), and he indicated that if there was an additive that would extend the utility of the paint, they'd be all over it, since the really big purchasers of bottom paint would flock to their doors. There isn't such a fix, so they don't.

The rep thought I should get a solid three years out of this system.

Incidentally, we used silver, then bronze color on the epoxy, then overcoated with first red, then black bottom paint. That way whatever color shows through tells us what stage wear is at.
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