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Old 01-06-2018, 09:08 PM   #21
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You have a good memory - it was Bob Lowe who described using the Makita and making a shoe and guide pin for it. You're also spot on about this being a major job. I've been doing a lot of research, gathering tools and trying out various techniques. Luckily, most of the seams look tight and I have plenty of time for the job. One step at a time. I knew going into the purchase that I'd eventually have to tackle this and that time's approaching. One way or the other, the seams need some TLC...
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Old 01-06-2018, 10:22 PM   #22
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Put this blade in your Fein tool

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct.do?pid=3332

It's made specifically for what you are trying to do. Why reinvent the wheel?
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Old 01-07-2018, 05:06 AM   #23
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Yes that's the blade being discussed earlier but it is for getting the old caulk out not for deepening the grooves. It will cut through the caulk like butta'. Teak ...not so much. Need some form of guided jig with a blade or router bit. i think any attempt involving hand guiding only would be a disaster. At least for me it would a disaster.
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Old 01-07-2018, 08:38 AM   #24
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What is so special about the Fein tool? It looks like a simple oscillating saw. With the right blade, it would make quick work of the caulk. I think if you are going to deepen the joints, you are playing with fire doing it in place with power tools. The precision you need just isn’t possible.
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:45 AM   #25
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Not sure that there is anything special about the Fein Multimaster beyond good quality and assortment of blades, adapters, etc. I read about people who use Harbor Freight equivalent with great success. Not sure how it would hold up in the long run though but for occasional use seems to work fine. Or Fein. Whichever
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Old 01-07-2018, 04:33 PM   #26
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I've already talked to Fred ( FBoykin) but I wanted to post this.

On our last boat, some of the existing groves were less than 1/8” deep with no caulk due to wear/exposure/poor installation, some caulk was loose in other areas and some plugs missing. The overall thickness of the decks was 3/8" or greater (which is considered serviceable) and with no moisture in the core, re-cutting the groves, re-caulking and replacing the plugs was the only way to fix the decks or remove the teak. NOT!

We used a 4” 120 VAC Makita. We put 2 blades together with a thin spacer to get the approximate 1/4” wide groove and set the blade(s) to ~3/8” depth. We ending up cutting over 800 linear feet of deck with that saw. The saw was very easy to guide using 2 hands. It had no tendency to wander. You just went slow and easy after some practice on some scrap. For the radiuses/curved sections and butt ends of the planks, I used chisels. I have a file I used to clean the groves. I would not suggest sandpaper, you can't keep the fresh cut square. The goal is to keep the upper edge sharp, if not, it will look wider and/or the width will not be even after you've finished it. Now that TDS sells a newer generation tool (s), I'd suggest those.


Before/during we replaced over 250 plugs and screws. We used 12 cases of TDS caulk. It took 3.5 of us (Lena was the half), 2.5 weeks working 10 hour days, 6 days a week and that included replacing the teak on the house on our 43' sailboat. It’s no wonder I’ve had to have a knee and hip replaced.


I wish I had better pictures but these are the afters. There's also a picture of my repair box. We still have teak decks.


If it was just a matter of replacing the caulk, you can do it manually but if the groves are not at least a 1/4” deep you have deepen them and powers tools are needed. I'm not suggesting the Makita is the best but it worked for us.
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:05 PM   #27
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Larry, you are da man my friend. Can't imagine taking it on. Thought about the physical part as well when I was looking at that boat I mentioned.
I need a knee replacement. Last week I replaced one (1) bung, on the flybridge. My knee let me know it did not think highly of me doing so. That was 1 bung. As in less than 2 bungs. 250? Um, OK.

I'm going to keep ignoring my knee. Maybe it will grow back.
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Old 01-08-2018, 04:11 PM   #28
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Larry M, thanks for the extended post & great pictures. A really big thanks for contacting me directly the other day. I greatly appreciate your time! Thanks again.
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Old 04-08-2018, 01:25 AM   #29
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It looks like there are a number of good ways to do this. I was too scared to go the makita saw route method fearing that one false move and I would destroy my deck. The Fein tool looks fine but a bit expensive an electric. I went with one of these

Veritas® Router Plane - Lee Valley Tools

I think it worked really well in both removing the old caulk, cleaning and re-grooving. I keep it on the boat for quick repairs.
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:24 AM   #30
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Did you use progressively deeper passes when removing the caulk with the plane or were you able to sink the blade deep and get most out in one pass? Not much in this world as nice as a fine hand tool....
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Old 04-08-2018, 12:03 PM   #31
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That Veritas plane looks interesting! I tried out my Makita 3 1/2" saw on my bow locker hatch. It did ok, but there was still plenty of handwork afterwards and I was always on edge that I was going to mis-cut my teak. So I did the smaller of my 2 lazarette hatches by hand with a Fein tool, Teak Decking Systems reef hook & sanding block plus MM size hand chisels and a nice English plow plane I found on Ebay. It turned out very well, but took more time than expected.

I sent mplangley a message with questions. Mainly how well di it work and what was his preferred method of use. His plane looks like a very, very useful tool! Unfortunately, tool is out of stock until late April...
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Old 04-08-2018, 12:59 PM   #32
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I use the Fein tool pretty regularly at work. For personal use I picked up the Milwaukee 12 Volt cordless oscillating tool for $79. ( I already had a number of Milwaukee M12 batteries ) While I have not used it a lot yet, it works very well, battery life is good, and the cuts are very precise. If you've already got some cordless tools, most of the major companies make cordless versions of the oscillating tool. Its amazing how useful it becomes once you own one.
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Old 04-08-2018, 04:20 PM   #33
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Mr. Lowe, that’s why.
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Old 04-08-2018, 10:00 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firstbase View Post
Did you use progressively deeper passes when removing the caulk with the plane or were you able to sink the blade deep and get most out in one pass? Not much in this world as nice as a fine hand tool....
We did make several passes depending upon how deep we needed to go. It worked perfectly.

One thing is I did not use the blade in the picture. That might work well also especially for removing the caulk. For removing the caulk we mostly used a reefing tool and did not encounter much of a problem with that..
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:36 AM   #35
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Thought I'd update folks on my teak project. I used my 3 hatches (bow & 2 lazerette) for practice. I tried the Makita saw on the bow hatch and found that it was too tricky to use (messy & real easy to overcut or wander) and never used it again. After seeing the plow plane photo in this thread, I researched them - Stanley made standard size ones and there was an English palm size version (Record #043). I located both on Ebay. I also got some millimeter size hand chisels and tools from Teak Decking Systems (TDS) and did the lazarette hatches by hand with assistance from my Fein multi-tool.

Some of the hatch board tips were loose so I glued them back with West thickened epoxy, then cut out the caulk with a carpet knife and TDS reefing tool. I cut the grooves deeper with the Record plane and hand chisels. Sanded the grooves with the Fein tool and applied the caulk. I used bond breaker tape and masked the teak with 3M blue tape.

Believe me, I got WAY better as time went on. One photo shows the majority of the tools I'm using (since I have the rest of the deck to do). There's lot more details, but that's the big picture.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:44 AM   #36
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Looks good. Practice always helps with the skills...
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