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Old 08-06-2015, 10:29 AM   #21
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Fred I'd love to see detail pictures of Lucy. Sounds like the ultimate in simplicity.
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:33 PM   #22
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Yeah Fred how about some pics of Lucy?
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:24 PM   #23
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Fred ya got any pics ????
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Old 08-06-2015, 03:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor of Fortune View Post
Thats the "Inconnu" (or used to be). It is a 40' personnel boat. The 50' are utility boats and are usually configured quite differently due to the open structure that you start with. Lots of the 50's are set up like Downeast boats with a open cockpit, midship pilothouse and fwd cabin like Fast Freds.
It still is the Inconnu, but I thought it was larger than 40'. It appears so much larger than my 30' PH Trawler that I thought it must be 50'. My Navy days were too long ago to remember the launches, and when out of the water (in chocks in the hanger bay) they look huge. There were a couple of them on board, one was the Captains Gig, and there was at least one other that was a crews liberty launch. Both were Willard's.

I would love to see pics of a 50" too :-)
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:51 AM   #25
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LUCY is laid up at our dock in FL. We are in CT for much of the summer.

We are snowbirds , so if anyone wants a photo essay of a study in simplicity , it will have to wait till after Nov 1 or so.

Folks visiting our dock (we need not be there ) can easily go aboard .

The tour is best as there is reasoning behind many of the choices that apply to this vessel, and might not be proper for others.

eg. We use (2) 8D truck batts as start and house service.

At the end of the day we switch the engine batts off , and the house to one 8D.

With propane refrigeration the only loads are lights and modern lights , even the bigger LED required for 5 mile viz in an over sized commercial Perko , draws little.


The interior was built for us , so its usually a shock that the 50 ft boat sleeps 2!

6 ft fwd is collision bulkhead and 15 ft aft is cockpit , so 50ft-21ft gives a much smaller living area than one would expect.

How it lives , mostly in FL ,venting is our key to FL cruising.
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:43 AM   #26
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Fair enough but if nothing is posted by December I'm going to bug you through PM's.
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:59 AM   #27
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Fred, I'm going to be in Fla late November, would love to have a tour!
I am getting well along in converting my Willard UB, am very interested in having a look at something similar.
I will PM you when I get there.
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:18 AM   #28
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I am getting well along in converting my Willard UB, am very interested in having a look at something similar.

Great , there is a second Navy Utility 50 a block away. It was fitted out as a roomeran so makes a sharp distinction.
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:10 PM   #29
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The bilge on my 50' UB has no sump hole, so bilge water has pretty much free run of the length of the boat, and is very difficult to pump dry. Currently am using a shop vac following every rainstorm!
I would like to cut out a sump at the low point to collect the water, but am unsure what lies below the surface there.
It has been rumored that there is a heavy steel backbone glassed into the keel, and I don't want to expose that, Willard factory doesn't want to talk to me about it...
It's a long shot, but does anybody here have insight on this?
thanks!
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:06 AM   #30
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I have the same problem.
When used for lobstering they simply installed a second pump aft of the engine and pumped which ever was in water.

I would be very reluctant to chop holes in the hull to get rid of the last drop.

When the conversion if finished , unless you have installed huge tanks for FW or diesel, the hull trim will not change much.

A second small diaphragm pump could get down to the lastb1/4 or 1/8 inch , dry enough for most boats.

On our boat the 6-71 has a old style lube oil filter , and the Navy would just let the 1/2 gal of oil dump in the bilge.

After over a decade of Simple Green and other scrub attempts , we still add detergent to the bilge and allow the motion of the ocean help get rid of the past sins. So an inch or two of water is no hassle.
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:00 PM   #31
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I have scrubbed the bilges until my fingers bled, trying to erase the many years of oily splash. The hatches, unfortunately, were not designed to stop water and grit intrusion. The transom area was the worst, I guess "full speed ahead" caused all the crap to slosh there the highest.
I have much experience with fiberglass fabrication, and feel confident that I could do this work without significantly weakening the hull, but do not want to open a can of worms!
I have a pump just forward of the ER bulkhead, and another behind the transmission, looks like these were the OEM locations, and are the best that can be done without a sump.
The humidity is fierce down there, and having a lake under the hood doesn't help.
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:04 AM   #32
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The humidity is fierce down there, and having a lake under the hood doesn't help.



We install these turbine vents in the PH overhead. It is over a std RV 14x14 hatch , so can easily be changed out for a cover or a Fantastic vent fan.



Not very yachty but with a few Dorade vents to let air in , can keep the interior humidity (south FL0 down.

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Old 12-16-2015, 07:21 AM   #33
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We are now in Fl, and have room for an O nite RV or boat of most any size , under 6ft draft.

Come for a tour!

Being your sense of humor , ( hint) the boat is not White for a reason.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:36 AM   #34
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FF's setup is very cool. Everyone should take him up his offer.
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:35 AM   #35
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Time for some pics, Fred
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Old 12-16-2015, 04:52 PM   #36
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Here's a real Willard 50.
None were built.
This pic I took from a market testing add in PMM Feb 2002 Pg 65.
Would have been a big boat. The 40' Willard looks huge next to my 30' .... and so does the earlier built W36.
So when you see a 50' Willard talked about it will be US Navy boats built either by Willard or Uniflite. They are Navy boats (mostly surplus) boats .. not Willards or Uniflites. They were never marketed to the public except in surplus sales.
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Old 12-17-2015, 05:54 AM   #37
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The military style construction would be of little use to the public.

Most don't require a boat with 100% flotation , or one that can be bulldozed off a carrier deck 60ft and survive.

Price is always the concern for public use , so I doubt if even the monel fuel tanks would be bought.

Certainly the heavy duty bronze steering would be overkill for a 200 hour a year boat.

Sadly the Fire Retardant resin is only a few cents a pound extra , and would be a good safety feature John Q might pay for.

Yacht hulls are built to a std , commercial vessels a different std , and the military has its own rule book.

Not many yachts have a collision bulkhead std.
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Old 12-26-2015, 01:23 PM   #38
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Fred,
I really appreciate all the features mentioned above, the boat is built like the proverbial "brick shithouse"!

The engine and fuel tanks are mounted quite high in the hull, tanks are actually on deck, and the engine mounts are at the same level.
I can easily crawl clear under the engine and transmission, well, not that easy, but I have been there!
I assume that there was some reason for the high mounting, probably some specification that does not apply to a civilian craft. I am wondering if there would be significant stability gains in placing the weight lower in the hull? (Just the tankage, I wouldn't care to move the motor)
I run the boat in open ocean, and it has some roll in a beam sea, and though it is a slow roll, I'm wondering if that could be improved upon by lowering the CG, and without adding more appendages below the waterline or dragging birds?
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:34 PM   #39
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kapnd,
May be related to a low mounted starter.
An engine I was quite excited about installing in my boat had a low starter. It was also about 8 to 10hp too much power. So I choose the Mitsu.
I would think that DD would have a high starter as many DD's were sold for marine use.
Another posibility is that the prefered gear has a large spacing between input and output shafts.
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:43 PM   #40
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kapnd,
May be related to a low mounted starter.
An engine I was quite excited about installing in my boat had a low starter. It was also about 8 to 10hp too much power. So I choose the Mitsu.
I would think that DD would have a high starter as many DD's were sold for marine use.
Another posibility is that the prefered gear has a large spacing between input and output shafts.
I'm pretty sure it was designed that way, possibly to allow the engine to keep running even with lots of water in the bilge?
Mine is a '94 model, came with a very nice Cummins B, not a DD.
The trans is a TD 506, way up in the air. There's around 6' of shaft before it exits the hull.
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