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Old 03-08-2017, 04:06 PM   #21
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Just a small comment, your fuses/breakers are intended to protect the wires, not the device...
Yep
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Old 03-08-2017, 04:31 PM   #22
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We've now completed all interior lighting switched to LED. Shopping running and anchor lites now. One thing we did over the sink/galley was to use a whiter light, still in a low power LED bulb. The rest of the overheads are warmer light and that seems to work fine giving the head chef the light she needs.
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Old 03-08-2017, 04:51 PM   #23
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Just a small comment, your fuses/breakers are intended to protect the wires, not the device...
and by extension your boat
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Old 03-11-2017, 12:01 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Xsbank View Post
Just a small comment, your fuses/breakers are intended to protect the wires, not the device...
Then why do all your electronic devices have fuses. Why do bilge pumps, circulating pumps, bow thrusters, winches, specify a fuse or breaker size. Circuits such as power outlets have have fuses / breakers to protect the wires because the load is unknown.

Ted
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Old 03-11-2017, 01:31 AM   #25
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Well OC, you have a panel with gangs of breakers or fuses, notice they are all different specifications? Notice how your windlass has a giant breaker and the radio has a small one? Take a look at the ampacity of the wires that are used to power these devices...check this out - Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:16 AM   #26
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Then why do all your electronic devices have fuses. Why do bilge pumps, circulating pumps, bow thrusters, winches, specify a fuse or breaker size. Circuits such as power outlets have have fuses / breakers to protect the wires because the load is unknown.

Ted
Electronic devices and bilge pumps have individual fuses because they might be wired to circuits that have a different level of overcurrent protection. We might have a 20 amp circuit with two chart plotters, a GPS antenna and a depth sounder module attached. Each device would need individual protection. Or, we could run individual circuits to each and provide protection at the source. Some devices need protection that can't be provided by typical circuit breakers. A GPS antenna fused at one amp, for example.

A bilge pump usually has a fuse because it is usually wired in a way that it bypasses any electrical panel and is powered all the time.
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:57 AM   #27
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Well OC, you have a panel with gangs of breakers or fuses, notice they are all different specifications? Notice how your windlass has a giant breaker and the radio has a small one? Take a look at the ampacity of the wires that are used to power these devices...check this out - Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems
The point is that often the fuse is specified to protect those devices from catastrophic failure not the wiring that is feeding them.

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Electronic devices and bilge pumps have individual fuses because they might be wired to circuits that have a different level of overcurrent protection. We might have a 20 amp circuit with two chart plotters, a GPS antenna and a depth sounder module attached. Each device would need individual protection. Or, we could run individual circuits to each and provide protection at the source. Some devices need protection that can't be provided by typical circuit breakers. A GPS antenna fused at one amp, for example.

A bilge pump usually has a fuse because it is usually wired in a way that it bypasses any electrical panel and is powered all the time.
Yes, I'm fully aware of that. The point that I was originally making was that incandescent lights don't need to be fused to prevent a risk of fire, the circuit does. LED emitters should be fused to protect against the extremely small risk of a fire when they fail. Since the emitter doesn't have a fuse, prudence dictates you limit the circuit (with a fuse or breaker) to the minimum amount of amperage required.

Ted
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Old 03-11-2017, 10:14 AM   #28
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...... The point that I was originally making was that incandescent lights don't need to be fused to prevent a risk of fire, the circuit does. LED emitters should be fused to protect against the extremely small risk of a fire when they fail. Since the emitter doesn't have a fuse, prudence dictates you limit the circuit (with a fuse or breaker) to the minimum amount of amperage required.

Ted
Your point wasn't clear to me.

You are correct and in fact, I did that when I changed my interior lights to LEDs. I measured the current with all the lights on and one circuit was a little over three amps, the other about four amps. I swapped out the twenty amp breakers for five amp breakers. These replacements were "fixtures" with small pigtail leads.

It's fine to use smaller breakers or fuses than the wire calls for but not the other way around.


I did not change the breaker for my navigation lights because they were "bulbs", not replacement fixtures so there are no smaller pigtail wires that need protection. Also, the original incandescent bulbs were saved as spares.
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Old 03-11-2017, 10:17 AM   #29
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OC Diver Raised a good point, we changed all our old twin fluorescent tubes by soldering in 3 strips of LED but made a cock up by fitting white light in the saloon and sleeping cabins.
Dummy, should have fitted warm white duh !
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