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Old 03-16-2019, 08:25 AM   #1
City: Hobe Sound
Country: USA
Vessel Name: E-Sea Going
Vessel Model: Mainship Pilot 430
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 2
Running wires in overhead

I have a 2007 Pilot 430, I plan to install an additional antenna and I'm have trouble figuring out how to rum the wires in the salon overhead, any advice appreciated.

E-Sea Going
Hobe Sound Fl.
2007 Mainship Pilot 430
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:30 AM   #2
RT Firefly's Avatar
City: Slicker?
Country: Bumpkin?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 11,814
Welcome aboard.

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Old 03-16-2019, 01:36 PM   #3
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City: Tri Cities, WA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Beachcomber
Vessel Model: Sea Ray 550 Sedan Bridge
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,317
I can't be of any help with your problem, but I will suggest that when you run your wires that you also run a length of 1/8" nylon rope along with your wires. That way if you ever need to run wires again you'll have something to attach them to and just be able to pull them through with your nylon rope.

Oh, and welcome to TF
Mike and Tina
Beachcomber 1995 Sea Ray 550 Sedan Bridge
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:32 PM   #4
City: Fairport
Country: United States
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,300
electricians have some trick tools:
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:42 AM   #5
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City: Bethesda, MD
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Solstice
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 47 Eastbay FB
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 507
I'd start by getting into your flybridge and start tracing where stuff goes now.

A tone probe is also fantastic following wires. Put the tone sender on one end of a wire and the probe will help you follow where the wire goes.

Sometimes getting from point A to point B takes a more circuitous route than you'd expect. The flybridge on my boat runs a TON of stuff down from the lower helm, forward to the A-pillar of the windshield and then inside that up to the flybridge. And there's an oddball access panel in the ceiling of the starboard stateroom that provides access to the base of the A-pillar. I wouldn't have assumed this (as the B-pillar is MUCH closer) but following the probe signal told me otherwise.

That and in addition to the fiberglass poles (which are great) it's helpful to have a flat fish tape. Not the typical wire type. I find the flat kind seems to slide better along/through various spots without getting stuck. The thicker wire kind are good in some situations but I've often had trouble with them getting hung up.

There are now some really inexpensive borescope cameras on the market now. I've got one that's wireless. You connect your phone to it's wireless signal to see the live signal. This is an improvement over the kind that plug into your phone, as those tended to be a hassle trying to juggle both the camera and the phone ends. This wireless one lets you rest the phone in your line of vision while keeping your hands free to move the camera.

What I haven't yet found is a good, BRIGHT, light on a gooseneck. I've got a magnetic base one that's proven handy, but there's nothing magnetic the boat for the base to grab. Still, the 20" gooseneck has proved useful for twisting the light into tight places under the helm and inside columns.

I've also found it's sometimes helpful to do the work in either BRIGHT sunlight or after dark. Sunlight shines through thinner places in the fiberglass, likewise a BRIGHT light if it's dark. Which can be helpful finding just where there is or isn't a way to get things through somewhere.
-- Bill Kearney
2005 Eastbay 47 FB - Solstice
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