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Old 05-11-2017, 07:22 AM   #1
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Adventures of a new boat owner(1979 Mainship 34')

My name is Wes and as of yesterday I'm a new owner of a 1979 34' mainship . I lied about being a new boat owner but this is my first boat in this class(16-20' fishing boats till now).

I'm based out of Tallahassee but plan to keep the boat in Carabelle or Panacea.

For right now the boat will be used as a weekend retreat but sometime this year or starting next my wife and I plan on taking a long trip(probably Bahamas).

I've owned quite a few smaller boats(up to 20') and consider myself above average around the dock so I took the girl out for a spin alone yesterday. I set up some buoys to practice docking(no bow thruster/never handled a boat that big) and spent some time out there in the wind. Actually backed her in her spot on the first try afterwards(proud of that one).

Then I got cocky and pulled back out for some more practice.. Had to leave the marina for another approach after failing a few times . No real risk of bumping other boats but it didn't look pretty.

I got her lined up perfectly again put her in neutral to tie up. While coming off the bridge ladder she starts going backward . I ran into the salon and knocked her back in forward and gassed her. Missed the bulkhead by 1'(probably looked good though). Note to self make sure i'm in the middle of neutral.. She bumped into reverse.

34' mainship
200hp Perkins turbo T6
5kw Kohler genset(seems more powerful but i'll look into it)
Expensive battery charger/Rewire(c-charger still researching)
Coleman rooftop AC(don't love it)
Updated salon furniture(going to change it)
Windlass

Boat is solid but the coring seems wet on the flybridge(strong but I can't tolerate rot). Works well for now but i'm no stranger to fiberglass work(had 5 boats all under 5k). I'm itchy thinking about it. I'll probably divide it in half and do each half separately(recoring/working up glass). Going to wait until fall.

Isn't getting the speed I expected but the boat is kept in freshwater(spring fed) and I noticed some alge growth(bottom painted last year). I plan on running her to "the shoal" the clear water should allow me to give her a scrubbing.



Other than that she's "turn key"(no such thing).

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Old 05-11-2017, 08:47 AM   #2
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Welcome aboard. I don't think those blank postings will do you much good as this forum does not allow edits after a few hours.

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Old 05-11-2017, 10:47 AM   #3
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Shakedown run and walkaround.
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Old 05-11-2017, 01:27 PM   #4
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Welcome. Sounds like you will really enjoy the boat.

Based on what you posted, it sounds as if you bought the boat without a survey, engine survery and sea trial? Most here will tell you that it is money well spent. A sea trial would have told you what the speed was at WOT as well as at typical cruise. It also would have told you exactly what the condition the bottom was in.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:26 PM   #5
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I would guess that you will get about 10 - 12 knot cruise with a 200 hp. Looks like a nice boat. I really like the layout for a 34' boat. Good luck and enjoy the ride...
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:00 AM   #6
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Guy in my marina has the same boat, he has a set way he spins in a circle right in front of his slip and backs right in, anyone that watches it is impressed.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:41 AM   #7
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10-12 KT cruise seems mighty ambitions on a 34' to me.

Why not start of with a good quick haul, bottom scrub and prop inspection.
then you will have a proper baseline of performance.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:45 AM   #8
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It is great that you have a good example of how it's done. Maybe he would give you some tips
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Old 05-12-2017, 10:55 AM   #9
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With a clean bottom and prop, 1/2 fuel and normal load a MS34 MKI with 200HP should top out at 14-15 knots. She will transition to plane at about 13. Big trim tabs (42 x 12) will help it wallow up onto plane.

I find comfortable cruise with the bow just up a bit to reduce "wander" at about 8-9 knots. Anything between 10 and 13 is just pushing a lot of water

$0.02
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Old 05-12-2017, 10:00 PM   #10
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And my 2 cents..... definitely a bow (or stern) thruster .. it makes close quarter maneuvers soooo much easier.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays View Post
Welcome. Sounds like you will really enjoy the boat.

Based on what you posted, it sounds as if you bought the boat without a survey, engine survery and sea trial? Most here will tell you that it is money well spent. A sea trial would have told you what the speed was at WOT as well as at typical cruise. It also would have told you exactly what the condition the bottom was in.
I poked around every nook and cranny(spend a few hours on the boat) then on day 2 I went for a sea trial(ran great).

I've bought many smaller boats and mostly know what to look for and the boat was IMO a great price(and local = Huge bonus) @ 25k.

I plan on spending another 10k on upgrades/fixes.

If it was in the 40k range I would have but didn't feel it necessary @ 25k with a large cushion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
I would guess that you will get about 10 - 12 knot cruise with a 200 hp. Looks like a nice boat. I really like the layout for a 34' boat. Good luck and enjoy the ride...
She's topping out around 11mph right now but I have been playing with the trim tabs. Seems to plow but not plane. Haven't spent much time running though(have large trim tabs).

Quote:
Originally Posted by bayview View Post
10-12 KT cruise seems mighty ambitions on a 34' to me.

Why not start of with a good quick haul, bottom scrub and prop inspection.
then you will have a proper baseline of performance.
It's on the short list but where it currently sits no such service available. I want to do some touch ups/slight upgrades where it is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bayview View Post
It is great that you have a good example of how it's done. Maybe he would give you some tips
I did it twice so far. Once alone with an afternoon breeze and the 2nd time with my wife in a solid 20 knot wind. Got it in the spot first try both times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keysdisease View Post
With a clean bottom and prop, 1/2 fuel and normal load a MS34 MKI with 200HP should top out at 14-15 knots. She will transition to plane at about 13. Big trim tabs (42 x 12) will help it wallow up onto plane.

I find comfortable cruise with the bow just up a bit to reduce "wander" at about 8-9 knots. Anything between 10 and 13 is just pushing a lot of water

$0.02
Found this to be true but my 2nd time out the seas were not suitable for speed runs. It has trim tabs but i'm unsure the size(look pretty big).

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And my 2 cents..... definitely a bow (or stern) thruster .. it makes close quarter maneuvers soooo much easier.
So far I don't think I need it. I can get it to turn around in its only length plus about 10' with alot of bumping reverse/forward.

Trick so far is since she backs perfectly straight to max out the rudder when parking(depending on approach) and bump her forward and back.

Scary as hell the first time.
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Old 05-15-2017, 05:52 AM   #12
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She backs perfectly straight? On a single screw?

L.
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Old 05-15-2017, 06:24 AM   #13
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She backs perfectly straight? On a single screw?

L.
Yeah I don't get how there's no prop walk or anything but there's just about zero steering in reverse.
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Old 05-15-2017, 02:33 PM   #14
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So far I don't think I need it. I can get it to turn around in its only length plus about 10' with alot of bumping reverse/forward.

Yes, it certainly can be done, but it is ALOT easier with a thruster.
I also find almost no steering in reverse, a bit of prop walk. Use the thruster to "aim" and then hit reverse. Not perfect in a strong wind
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:00 AM   #15
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How hard would it be to tow this around locally(would be nice to have a runabout/tender)?


I also feel that this little boat needs its own little paragraph. 16' Henry-O center console made by one of the Mckee brothers who went out on his own(they split from Boston Whaler). Foam filled and this little boat rides like no other boat. The deadrise is great for 2' chop(real 2' chop) and i've had her out in 4' seas(snotty 20mph wind stuff). That weird bow shape knocks down the spray making it one of the driest boats i've owned.

I'll put it this way. My previous boat was a Hydrasport 20' Kevlar hull with 22 degrees of deadrise and trim tabs. A very respectable boat but this boat rides better .

If you ever find some poor sap who's willing to sell you one you'd be smart to buy it.

Back to the topic.


Wallpaper is evil! Typical Wife "I hate this wallpaper" "new flooring" etc but she's right.


Outing number 3 and she performed very well but wont "plane out" which is no big deal but just pushes water @ 10/11mph. I'm going to investigate to make sure the trim tabs are getting full swing. Cruises very nicely @ 1500rpm @ 7-8knots.

She performed very well in the south 15mph wind and incoming tide building up the seas a bit.

Following seas are well not a strong point but with a sharp entry and flatter back to be expected.

I bought the boat with a SI-tex sp-70 autopilot knowing someone stole the processor(previous owner claimed work done/guy took off). After checking around Si-tex wanted $700 for a new one.

Found one on ebay guaranteed to work(with compass/wiring) for $175 . Wiring it up should be interesting in this heat we're having.

I can't wait to get it because although I love trawler speeds(relaxing) I don't care to be constantly making corrections at the wheel. I hope to integrate it into my Garmin GPSMAP 3205 for serious automation(vigilant automation BTW).

Not paying attention is irresponsible regardless of speed and with the amount of crab traps around my home waters would be expensive as well.

The boat is currently in a very tidal marina so leaving at low tide can be difficult/impossible. I looked into a closer/deeper marina and @ 3x the price decided I can deal with it . Money saved will go towards even more upgrades/fixes.

Boat has 20' outriggers that can make bridge navigation difficult. I like to fish and plan on using the boat to troll/fish but not sure I need them(never used outriggers). Should I take them off and sell them?
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:16 AM   #16
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I'm going to undertake an interesting project
1. Save money duh
2. It sounds interesting.
3. I'm a sucker to learn my own "lessons".

The boat has a rooftop coleman ac that works well but is noisy. Put simply I hate it. It also has a portable LG A/C in the cabin. Nice unit but it gets in the way.

After doing some research on the differences between marine units I came up with an idea. Replace the air cooled coil with a water cooled coil and plumb it with enough seawater. Next thing is knowing that a standard coil wouldn't last a week before corroding into a mess I found out i'm not the first one to have this idea.

cupro nickel coil is what's needed to stand up to the salt water so I found one(wasn't easy) for $129 on ebay.


This thread was very helpful.
Window ac converted for marine use - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum




Going to buy a 10,000 BTU(or larger) window unit, Take it apart, Bring it to a licensed HVAC guy, have him remove refrigerant, take home/solder in coil, and bring it back for him to charge it.

After that I can test it on a water hose and then move on to installing a 3GPM pump to supply the seawater. Then finally work on running the ductwork.

First time typing all that out and it sounds like a stupid way to save some $$ but i'm a curious soul.

Backup plan is to buy a 16.5btu unit used for under 1k.

Place your bets fellas.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:49 AM   #17
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I admire your creativity with the Air conditioning hack. At the risk of being a naysayer, you would probably reduce your overall expense and aggravation by going with a marine unit. That said it is interesting and there is no reason it cannot be made to work. I think you may regret the unit not being ducted. On our mainship 34' it only has one unit but it is ducted to the saloon and the V berth which does a good job of keeping it comfortable. Does your boat have a cabinet aft of the galley, across from the lower helm? Is this where the unit will be mounted? One significant advantage to the marine specific ducted units is reduced noise because the compressor and fan are located remotely, on ours it is below the galley countertop in the aft port corner. If you proceed with this experiment use a high strength solder like silfos to handle the pressure of your refrigerant lines. A major benefit of a window unit or water cooled unit is the avoidance of field joints, having the entire refrigerant loop undisturbed from the factory with the correct amount of Freon charge. Once you start opening it up and making your own connections, it is far more likely to cause headaches.
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrwesson View Post
I'm going to undertake an interesting project
1. Save money duh
2. It sounds interesting.
3. I'm a sucker to learn my own "lessons".

The boat has a rooftop coleman ac that works well but is noisy. Put simply I hate it. It also has a portable LG A/C in the cabin. Nice unit but it gets in the way.

After doing some research on the differences between marine units I came up with an idea. Replace the air cooled coil with a water cooled coil and plumb it with enough seawater. Next thing is knowing that a standard coil wouldn't last a week before corroding into a mess I found out i'm not the first one to have this idea.

cupro nickel coil is what's needed to stand up to the salt water so I found one(wasn't easy) for $129 on ebay.

This thread was very helpful.
Window ac converted for marine use - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

Going to buy a 10,000 BTU(or larger) window unit, Take it apart, Bring it to a licensed HVAC guy, have him remove refrigerant, take home/solder in coil, and bring it back for him to charge it.

After that I can test it on a water hose and then move on to installing a 3GPM pump to supply the seawater. Then finally work on running the ductwork.

First time typing all that out and it sounds like a stupid way to save some $$ but i'm a curious soul.

Backup plan is to buy a 16.5btu unit used for under 1k.

Place your bets fellas.
My 16000 built in unit uses a 500 gph pump, and they're not cheap. Ducts run to the forward cabin, head and salon. The unit is aft of the sink. Only issue with my installation is that there is no return duct and in hot weather I need to open the locker door under the sink to ensure adequate return air flow. The (newer) fridge blocks the flow from the louvre.
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keysdisease View Post
With a clean bottom and prop, 1/2 fuel and normal load a MS34 MKI with 200HP should top out at 14-15 knots. She will transition to plane at about 13. Big trim tabs (42 x 12) will help it wallow up onto plane.

We had a MkIII with 220-hp DD 8.2T. From memory, I think tops was 14 kts. Could cruise at 12 but it was too noisey, normally stayed at about 8-9 kts, IIRC.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou_tribal View Post
She backs perfectly straight? On a single screw?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrwesson View Post
Yeah I don't get how there's no prop walk or anything but there's just about zero steering in reverse.
Our stern would walk to port in short bursts of reverse. ("Bursts" meaning just shifting into gear, no throttle.)

I could steer sorta straight in reverse, once given a head of steam, but that took a bit of fairway to achieve... And the "straight" didn't necessarily mean I could steer where I wanted to go.

-Chris
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Old 05-17-2017, 04:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdavid View Post
I admire your creativity with the Air conditioning hack. At the risk of being a naysayer, you would probably reduce your overall expense and aggravation by going with a marine unit. That said it is interesting and there is no reason it cannot be made to work. I think you may regret the unit not being ducted. On our mainship 34' it only has one unit but it is ducted to the saloon and the V berth which does a good job of keeping it comfortable. Does your boat have a cabinet aft of the galley, across from the lower helm? Is this where the unit will be mounted? One significant advantage to the marine specific ducted units is reduced noise because the compressor and fan are located remotely, on ours it is below the galley countertop in the aft port corner. If you proceed with this experiment use a high strength solder like silfos to handle the pressure of your refrigerant lines. A major benefit of a window unit or water cooled unit is the avoidance of field joints, having the entire refrigerant loop undisturbed from the factory with the correct amount of Freon charge. Once you start opening it up and making your own connections, it is far more likely to cause headaches.
Winner winner.

Basically the limiting factor after some research.. I need alot of BTU's and would..
1.Have to run 2 units(that means 2 coils)
2. HVAC labor makes it not worth it.
3. Probably a bunch of other things but that's where I stopped.

I'm going to buy a used unit. Still not sold on BTU's but I doubt I'll have tons of choices. Right now the top canidate is a 16.5k BTU flagship unit in good shape with a water pump for $850. The catch is a 3 hour drive but I doubt i'll do better.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff F View Post
My 16000 built in unit uses a 500 gph pump, and they're not cheap. Ducts run to the forward cabin, head and salon. The unit is aft of the sink. Only issue with my installation is that there is no return duct and in hot weather I need to open the locker door under the sink to ensure adequate return air flow. The (newer) fridge blocks the flow from the louvre.
I'm lucky in the previous owner installed some ducts for the portable unit for fresh air.

I'll do more research but would a 5gpm washdown pump do the trick or does it create too much pressure?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger42c View Post
We had a MkIII with 220-hp DD 8.2T. From memory, I think tops was 14 kts. Could cruise at 12 but it was too noisey, normally stayed at about 8-9 kts, IIRC.






Our stern would walk to port in short bursts of reverse. ("Bursts" meaning just shifting into gear, no throttle.)

I could steer sorta straight in reverse, once given a head of steam, but that took a bit of fairway to achieve... And the "straight" didn't necessarily mean I could steer where I wanted to go.

-Chris
Don't know why that extra bit of speed bothers me but it does. Mostly because I want to know everything is in good order. I'm going to have her hauled out sometime soon to check everything out.

Mine backs straight but you can forget about steering. Only does that when going forward.

I'm getting the hang of it but for the mean time have 300k worth of liability(doubt every boat in my Marina = that but some reassurance).


I can add on Comprehensive(didn't at the time) for ~$650 a year(large deductible/30k cash/disaster situation/fire/sinking).. I'm on the fence it being a 25k boat but would sleep better.
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