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Old 09-26-2016, 10:02 AM   #1
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Accidentally bought a trawler ;)

Never really occurred to me, what I had done until describing the boat to a friend that is huge fan of trawlers.

Had been (probably accurately) describing it as a semi-displacement hull but once running it realizing how slow the damn thing is (), a light bulb went off and it all made sense

Boat is an '87 36' DC w/twin 270 HP, 350 cu in Crusaders and 6.5 KW Kohler generator.

Have owned it 2 months now and had it away from dock last weekend for the first time since the sea trial.
Loved it!

We were shopping at the bottom end of the budget for aft cabins and most we found in that range stopped being boats 3-4 yrs ago and became cottages.
As did this one.

As in, interior was gorgeous but nothing mechanical functioned
Luckily, I've done this all my life and am able to do most of the chores myself.

Sold an '86 Marinette 32' sedan/bridge (2nd 32', third Marinette) that was perfect to buy this project, knowing we'd spend most of the end of this season at dock (as in, a cottage) while I sorted it.

Top of list is motors. Starboard was recently rebuilt but port is orig.
On sea trial both motors ran warmer than I like so I replaced t.stats (160*) and topped off antifreeze (closed cooling) before going out last weekend.
At idle in neutral I saw approx 180* (new gauges) which is where it stayed under load up to approx 2800 - 3000 RPM.
Anything above that they climbed to 200* (which I don't like) and stayed there.
Based on feel and spray off the hull, I suspect the difference between 2800 - 3200 will only be felt at the fuel dock.

Overall I will say though, I am way impressed with this boat. The fit and finish, attention to detail, glass work is equal w/almost anything I've seen.
And i used to build vacuum infused 28' sport fish boats for the most anal guy I've ever met.

I am particularly impressed (as a glass guy) w/the glass piece that surrounds the ceiling of the main salon. Has built in wire chases, cavities for curtain tracks (full length of cabin!) and the gauge/dash panel for the lower helm and finished in gel coat.
This is all one piece w/not a single straight line anywhere. Would have taken hundreds of hours to get the mold right.

The picture is while anchored off the campground at Kellies Island in Lake Erie Ohio and the short video is coming around the west side of the island and passing the West Bay Inn. Has free dockage to enjoy lunch and a beverage and to see some of the best sun sets in the world.
Our wives were nice enough to give my brother (boat shopping again for first time in 20 yrs) and I hall passes for the weekend to play on the boat.

Anyhow, thanks for letting me play and I thought you guys might like to follow along w/the project.

Gary
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:12 AM   #2
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Nice looking boat. You have lots of fun times ahead, congrats.

Cheers, Bill
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:38 AM   #3
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Greetings,
Welcome aboard.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:47 AM   #4
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I'd be happy with the performance as is, in luding the 200 degrees over 3000. Nice vessel. Welcome to TF.
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Old 09-26-2016, 03:28 PM   #5
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Nice boat, welcome!

There's been some talk around here about cleaning out heat exchangers with an acid-based solution like Barnacle Buster, Rydlyme or just plan phosphoric acid (diluted). Several folks reported running 10 degrees cooler after.

Sounds like a very good thing to do with a recently-purchased used boat, I'm going to give it a try.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:38 PM   #6
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Thx for all the compliments guys.

Just reread the Mainship 36 thread and its great info as well.

Couple more weekends of fun and then it goes on the hard and the real work begins.

If weather cooperates we plan to put some miles on it this weekend and this time w/my GPS and note book so we'll get a base line.

Next season should be big fun.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:45 PM   #7
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Welcome Gary, great to see you bringing "that ol' girl" back to the dance! You will grow to love her. I love that aft enclosure set up. Looks like a hardtop? is that canvas on the fly bridge or hardtop there?
We have the 40 DC with the big block engines. The suggestion by CaptTom brings the point to mind that you may want to find WHY you are seeming to run a little hot. prior to assuming you need rebuilds for the engine. Lots of things could cause high heat. Poor water flow, clogged heat exchangers ETC. Gauges do lie. sometimes. You seem to have the experience to sort all of that out, ENJOY.
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:55 PM   #8
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Ok...so...just to confirm, as it has not been stated as such, and someone has to ask...is it a Mainship 40..? It looks like one, as as the old saying goes, if it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck...
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:27 AM   #9
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Peter, stated in post #1, it is a 36.
I think the hard top makes it look bigger.

Dave, hard top aft, canvas bridge enclosure.
Sea trial and closing was delayed as we debated motors "actual" condition.
Port (orig) motor showed low to no oil pressure at idle. Oh, and neither would even start for sea trial.
I like to gamble though, so.....

I replaced all gauges on bridge and oil pressure sending units.
And thermostats.

We now have 20 lbs of oil @ idle but doesn't rise w/rpm which is very odd.
Stbd idles @ 20 but goes to 60 @ speed so we know that one got a high pressure pump @ rebuild.

On elevated operating temps above 2800, I haven't been through pumps or strainers yet.
At first glance, it appears that objective is to establish health/power of both motors then go from their.
Have been considering power options but don't think I'm willing to go beyond small blocks due to necessity in changing manifolds, plumbing etc.
One option I do like is addition of Vortex heads to existing motors.
Approx +30 hp's per side.

Really enjoying Tony B's fuel use graphs and in looking at them, it appears to me that there is a sweet spot @ 3K RPM.
Bellow and above that rpm, the boat needs more rpm to gain 1 mph than it does @ 2980 rpm and 15.8 mph and .9 mpg.
If I'm doing my math right, that equals 14.23 gph @ cruise which I'm OK with.

What I really like though is that tells me the 270's have enough power and w/existing props I only need them to be happy @ 3k which I think I can do.
Clear as mud?

Dave, PS, we like the additional living space of all the canvas but I like the looks of the boat w/o any of it.
If I was single, the hard top and all canvas but bridge Bimini would be for sale ��

In picture, left are new gauges, rt is new.
Drastic, affordable improvement.
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:57 PM   #10
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Gary, Yes that is odd with 20 lbs oil pressure at idle and no change with change of RPM? Odd indeed. I like the side enclosures off as well. Not much cold weather around here to hide from. Keeps things less dirty in winter when all zipped up!
We do other stuff when it's freezing out. New gauges look nifty, appear easier to read at a glance. The hard top for the aft area is the best. Wish ours had been optioned that way. Too much trouble for me to change it now.
Great looking ship you have there. Cheers
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:03 PM   #11
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I too love the look of this boat can't wait to see what you do with her from here on. Please post pics as you do improvements
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:28 PM   #12
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Welcome Gary. I started to read your post thinking "There better be pictures!" Not only pictures, but a video! Well done. I did not know we could post videos!!! Thanks. Great looking boat.
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:48 PM   #13
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Welcome aboard!

Have you changed the oil and filters? That might affect the readings?
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:23 PM   #14
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I did clean my cooling system with Barnacle Buster. Put it in and let it sit for about 7 hours. Port engine dropped 5 degrees and the starboard engine dropped 10 degrees. We just bought the boat about a year ago. I have not had the heat exchangers apart yet, but the temperature readings were based on 200 hours run time last summer so I am confident that it did make a difference.
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Old 02-04-2017, 11:08 AM   #15
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I recommend a portable IR temp meter. About $50 or so. There is so much that make dash gauges inaccurate. Sensors, grounding, dual stations, etc. 160 deg stats are correct. 180 deg at idle is not; but right now the gauges are not believable.
Take a IR shot of the thermostat housing, at idle, and then during a cruise run after at least 20 minutes. It shouldn't exceed 180 deg at the housing. Remember after this point, that same water has to cool the exh manifolds. You don't want that to exceed 200 or so at EM exit. As you get the remote gauges sorted out, then it becomes a good reference to see early trouble. Right now though, I recommend at least a temporary run into a mechanical oil pressure and the portable IR temperature trick. At one point, I really got into the various temperature readings on my GM motors; engine output temp. heat exchanger input and output temp, and raw water output temperatures. Knowing a base line (normal) set of numbers helps in debug.
To oil pressure. A fixed 20psi reading over rpm is hopefully not correct. Hopefully a stuck sender. Check with a mech gauge.
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Old 02-04-2017, 12:22 PM   #16
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Oil pressure gauge: With the engine running, turn the key off then back on. Does the pressure drop to zero?
Swap the oil pressure sender to the other engine. Does the problem move. If no, try the same with the gauges.
Good luck with the boat. If you are getting 0.93 mpg at 3000 rpm with a 36' gas boat your doing good.
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Old 02-04-2017, 12:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
I did clean my cooling system with Barnacle Buster. Put it in and let it sit for about 7 hours. Port engine dropped 5 degrees and the starboard engine dropped 10 degrees. We just bought the boat about a year ago. I have not had the heat exchangers apart yet, but the temperature readings were based on 200 hours run time last summer so I am confident that it did make a difference.
I had a heating issue after my purchase some 10+ years ago (my--- time does seem to fly!) that I cured with new oil coolers, risers & elbows. But the thing that really made a difference was removing the heat exchangers along with their covers. Now with the tubes exposed, it took less than five minutes to rod them. THAT REALLY MADE A DIFFERENCE.
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Old 02-04-2017, 04:30 PM   #18
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May I ask what kind/brand of gauges you have installed? I may be changing out mine in the near future, Thanks.

Kevin
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Old 02-05-2017, 07:14 AM   #19
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Diver Dave's suggestion for an IR (or laser from HF) to get better temperature accuracy is on the mark. Because I went through a similar experience after purchasing my Silverton, I think your problem is real and most of it in the heat exchangers.

But I want to caution you about risers and elbows. The recommended change period for risers is 10 years with some extremist claiming 5 years. If a $200 riser fails............it will take the engine with it. And having changed risers along with exhaust hose, I found removing the hose from the muffler first made things a great deal easier.

I changed my risers/elbows back in the summer of 1996. I plan to replace them after the upcoming season.
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Old 02-05-2017, 08:58 AM   #20
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In my Southern Latitudes, where the ocean has more salt, GM risers and RW cooled elbows are on 4 year schedules for replacement. Anything over 4 years is very risky. I had a OEM elbow clog on a passage one time; the exhaust hose started burning, smoke out the exhaust. Luckily, with a V engine and one still good side pumping water, the fiberglass muffler did not burn down below deck. That Crusader elbow was 4 years old. Been through 4 replacement cycles and at 4 years, the cast iron passages are very small, lots of scaling rust.
As a side note, I did a FW flush after most every use for a full 4 years. Still a shocking amount of scaling free rust at 4 years.
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