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Old 02-13-2018, 05:32 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Mrwesson View Post
Haven't done any fiberglass work since redoing my rear deck but getting ready to tackle the flybridge. I decided to just make it solid again rather than fix the sagging rear door.. Hope I dont regret that some day but spring is creeping up on me this year.

Have you been using tile-clad on the interior(thought I saw a can?) stuff is amazingly strong(stronger than gelcoat) and a good value @ $100 for 2 gallons of 2 part epoxy paint. Roll it on or you can spray it with a cheap $15 harbor freight airgun(assuming you have a large compressor).

Going to use cheap EBAY teak and holly Eva foam peel/stick decking on the rear deck for non-skid(comparable to seadek/much cheaper). I'll let you know how it holds up(only about $150 for the rear deck).
I'm a bit sloppy so it wont look custom made but hoping for something good.
Hi MRwesson, not using any tile-clad. I just looked it up and looks great and I do have accounts at the local shops/SW store. I should be using it. I feel like I'm goofing around with some exterior stuff that is not gonna hold up??
Thanks for bringing the product up! Looking forward to checking it out.. No doubt especially with a discount cheaper than say epoxy primecoat by interlux.
Especially for interiors.
I agree with the post below about your sag. Do the rear door first!
I always follow the build from foundation up philosophy. I'd be afraid of laying down new flybridge and it will all be done per the sag from the door...that hardens and sets. Then you go to jack up door and fix issues and it has knowwhere to go. Even a half an inch or whatever can be a real pain in the ass. Unless you have a hardened core/fiberglass bender?? Mine is broken or I would lent it to you Just my .02
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:05 AM   #42
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I made my '78 MKI much quieter doing a few simple things. One was to "box in" the vent hoses taking air to the engine compartment. These ultra thin vinyl hoses carry engine room noise, and are in the walls port and starboard of the salon. I straightened them up vertically, used 3/4" plywood from the side deck (include the vent box) to the salon deck and glued 2lb sq ft mass loaded vinyl (1/4" thick) to the plywood. Its all screwed together with gasketed seams so it can be taken apart for access.

Really helped quiet down the salon

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Old 03-24-2018, 03:48 PM   #43
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Mass loaded vinyl???? Do you have pictures, sources, price? I assume it is a sound proofing product.

Thanks.
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Old 03-24-2018, 08:26 PM   #44
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Mass loaded vinyl (MLV) is what's in most small boat insulation nowadays, basically a lead replacement product. Used in the same weights as lead, works on noise like lead, non toxic and cheap. Looks and works like a sheet of rubber. Cuts with shears or a razor knife, glue, staple, nail or screw. Google search, plenty of sources, even big box stores.

I was tight on space, not enough room for conventional insulation, the 3/4" plywood and the 1/4" thick 2lb sq ft MLV had enough mass to stop quite a bit of noise. Using 3/4" ply made "boxing in" the vent lines pretty easy without the need for lumber "cleats" in the corners. Tight fit is important, noise will find any little crack.



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Mass loaded vinyl????
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:51 PM   #45
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I am buying a 1978 MS-34 #98 off the mold. It has no soft spots in deck or overhead and the rear bulkhead is fine. But this thread scares the hell out of me. I hope I dont have to ever do this!!! You have my very deep respect for even trying this job.
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:10 PM   #46
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update

Thanks Jimisbell, I hope you don't either!

So will be updating more now as the weather is slowly getting better here.

1.So core, fiberglass, and fairing are done. Excited for the new wide drains as I love the look.
2. Put up the foam backed vinyl ( bought from sailrite)
3. replaced vinyl padding with finished PVC trim pieces. They have nice finished edges and better than having to router edges and such.
4. Had my paint account guys color match the vinyl (slightly off white)
so I can paint PVC and anything else so the "white" stays consistent throughout
5. ripped the stairs going down to the galley out. rebuild new ones (pictures to follow) and nice red oak steps from Home Depot.
6. Sanded down the black exterior panels that had the mainship logo on them and will repaint. The inside panels on the other side of the black panels have gotten the same vinyl shown here to match. Was very hard to remove the old vinyl from those panels. (pics to come)

By the way, click on photos and the turn the right way. Weather is looking good as of now for the weekend and will be attacking more work, Hoping for a couple full days as launch is May 4th!
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:25 PM   #47
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Looking good
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Old 04-20-2018, 03:33 PM   #48
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Few more photos, All the fairing is done and setting in the new drains. I have some guys spraying the topside and nonskid. Will update as I think as we speak they are doing it.
Here are the new 10 inch cleats to replace the old ones. Going with two on each side of the boat. Also having the fuel deck fills re cromed. They are a funny size and i don't mind the old school look. Lastly self-explanatory shot of a "boat under renovation." Soon as that non skid dries I have some wiring to jump on for new lighting, thru hulls, and 10 other things to get going before we splasg on May 4th.
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Old 04-20-2018, 04:49 PM   #49
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:45 PM   #50
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Your progress is really amazing. Looks nice.
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:52 PM   #51
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Adding a second spring cleat is a good idea & on our list of things to do. It's good to see you're progressing nicely!
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