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Old 04-15-2019, 08:21 AM   #1
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6.354 new exhaust & stuff

This past winter I was faced with the dilemma of what to do with the Perkins in our boat. We would get a whiff of exhaust smoke in the cabin so I removed the exhaust & turbo blankets to investigate and found the previous owner had wrapped the turbo housing,exhaust mixer & everything else that was deteriorated with a muffler bandage. My fault for not picking up on it during the initial survey but the engine ran so well & I just didn't feel like I wanted to undo the turbo blankets for fear of them not going back correctly. Lesson learned...next time I'll investigate a little farther. Anyway,attached are pictures of the condition of everything hidden inside of the turbo blankets.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:42 AM   #2
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Greetings,
Mr. b. Nasty! Well, the good thing is you didn't break any exhaust studs. You're 1/2 way there IMO. Thanks for the look-see.


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Old 04-15-2019, 08:50 AM   #3
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I'm lucky Trans Atlantic Diesel is close by and even more lucky they had everything in stock! From everything I've read, the turbo was going to be hard to come by. Not only did they have one in stock, they offered me the option of a reman turbo which saved me $3-400. Sheri fixed me up with everything I needed, right down to every gasket, nut bolt & washer.
I ran the idea of changing the raw water cooled exhaust manifold to be included in the closed cooling loop of the engine but Marcus @ TAD just wasn't keen on doing it. He insisted the manifold was robust enough to last in salt water for many years but if I was worried to just fresh water flush the engine once a week or so. Since I replaced the Raritan sea water strainer with a new one anyway, I incorporated a 3-way valve in the system to flush it with. It works pretty slick plus it'll make winterizing a little easier too.
A couple on cans of paint later (I went with a Rustoleum color...the Perkins OEM paint is just so bland!) and the engine is gleaming once again. We took it out for a short first cruise of the season yesterday & everything performed flawlessly.
We're finally nearing the end of our Mainships complete rebuild. It's time to start cruising instead of working.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:52 AM   #4
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Wow, that's a great job removing all that. Did you have to split the nuts in half to keep from twisting off studs?
We must have been posting at the same time . I just saw post #3. Man this looks great.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. b. Nasty! Well, the good thing is you didn't break any exhaust studs. You're 1/2 way there IMO. Thanks for the look-see.


Luck was with me for the manifold replacement, Mr RTF! Some of the studs did merit replacement but NONE rung off & I was able to source them locally.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:58 AM   #6
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Wow, that's a great job removing all that. Did you have to split the nuts in half to keep from twisting off studs?
The turbo adapter was the only place I needed to use a chisel to get the turbo separated from the adapter. The rest came out relatively easy, believe it or not. Mostly in pieces, though.
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:25 AM   #7
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I'm impressed, great handiwork! Ya gotta love Perkins engines and TAD.
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:40 AM   #8
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I had some corrosion and similar leakage issues on my perkins 354 but most of my corrosion was on the turbo housing. I simply replaced it with a Chinese HX35 knock off turbo for under $300(about 200 hours or so going strong). The old turbo just needed a new housing but wanted to experiment. It bolted right up to the flange but the outlet was slightly different so it was welded direct to the mixing elbow. I hate v-band clamps.. They always seem to leak.

There's no increase in power with the upgraded turbo because in a diesel you add fuel for power but these chinese turbos seem to hold up very sell in the Cummins circles.

I no longer use a turbo blanket.
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Old 04-15-2019, 03:54 PM   #9
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Looks like a leak from the raw water outlet or hose did that. Blanket held the salt water around the turbo and with the heat rusted everything.
Good work on the replacement !!
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:12 PM   #10
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Man, everything about the engine and engine compartment looks super!
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:23 PM   #11
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@ Solly, you're right, it does seem that salt water was the culprit but I assure you there haven't been any raw water leaks since we owned the boat but like I mentioned, the PO did (and hid) a lot of patch work so there's no telling what issues were there prior to us buying it.
@ tumblehome, thanks. Fresh paint & LED lighting really brighten the area up!
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Old 04-16-2019, 10:14 AM   #12
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[QUOTE=Mrwesson;757276] I simply replaced it with a Chinese HX35 knock off turbo for under $300(about 200 hours or so going strong).

Mrwesson...
Looking for more info please...
Was the original turbo water cooled ?
Mine is ( H1B ) and I was wondering about replacing it some time. Maybe with 1 that isn't water cooled if that's possible.
What did you have to do as far as blocking off the water passages and mounting the turbo ?? Have to be a different hole pattern.
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Old 04-16-2019, 02:19 PM   #13
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[QUOTE=Solly;757627]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrwesson View Post
I simply replaced it with a Chinese HX35 knock off turbo for under $300(about 200 hours or so going strong).

Mrwesson...
Looking for more info please...
Was the original turbo water cooled ?
Mine is ( H1B ) and I was wondering about replacing it some time. Maybe with 1 that isn't water cooled if that's possible.
What did you have to do as far as blocking off the water passages and mounting the turbo ?? Have to be a different hole pattern.
** Purchase/install at your own risk. I can only say it's worked for me and I have under 1000 hours on it.

Posting info like this can be dangerous but i'm pretty confident that it's safe enough.

It was the holset 3LD(not water cooled) and I replaced it with a Holset H1C chinese turbo(also not water cooled). Pretty straight forward swap except a couple of fittings being a bit different. It's my understanding the H1C is almost identical in housing and turbine size so performance should remain the same. Some say a small amount of added HP but I'm skeptical.

I've not heard of the water cooled 354 turbo but i'll look into it to see if I can help.

People report power improvements but I don't see how that is possible with the 354. I'm pretty sure the only way to add power is by turning up the fuel pump. This is a good thing though.

Mine shows no sign on wearing out FWIW.

It was $228 on ebay(Gyturbo). Pretty sure this is the exact one I ordered. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upgrade-Tur...item3d4fe70638


Apparently these turbo's dont show their chinese colors unless you stress them in high HP applications. For a low boost tractor engine it'll hold up forever. The components are made out of the same material. If you're worried that it'll let you down order 2 (comparable turbo from Perkins is 1700 refurbished although unlikely to be as good).

If your stock 3LD is performing well then then the only reason I see ordering the ebay turbo is for a backup on the loop or just as a backup. Mine corroded @ the housing(similar to OP) so I had to do something.

EDIT Apparently you can run a water cooled turbo and simply cap the water passages or leave them dry. Many road going turbo cars are built around some water cooled turbos and they do it. I wouldn't cap a water cooled turbo but it's a strong sign that the mounts are the same(they look the same) so you should be able to simply swap in a H1C or 3LD. I'm not certain of this and it comes off of 10 minutes of research so I highly suggest doing your own.
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