Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-26-2010, 04:49 AM   #21
FF
Guru
 
FF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,518
RE: Whats under the teak decks?

Water on deck works its way past the filler hardware and runs down the fill hoses to collect on the top of the tank.

UNQUESTIONABLY

The problem is folks believe in the goop fairy (cousin of the tooth fairy) that some majic bedding does not wear out.

8- 10 years is perhaps late but about the time Everything installed thru the deck musty be lifted and re bedded.

It is easy to modify a boat so disaster does not result from inattention.

An example , our launch has a 2 in deck plate like most boats.

The modification was to toss the fill plate , shorten&replace the old fuel hose and use a pipe nipple and cap. The deck got a 8 inch bronze screw down cover.

So if the cover leaks , in time , its not leaking water into the fuel .

5200 sucks as the stuff is far to hard to seperiate and clean off at intervals.

Good ancient Dolphinite , makes re bedding an easy task and seals at least as well as stickum goop.
__________________
Advertisement

FF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2010, 06:46 AM   #22
Guru
 
Anode's Avatar


 
City: Missourah
Country: USA
Vessel Name: M/V Scout
Vessel Model: Sundowner Tug 30'
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 645
RE: Whats under the teak decks?

Thanks Fotoman and Jennifer for the kind compliments. It's been a labor of love for both my wife and me.
I'll to get the photo album updated soon as we continue to make 'progress' on Scout.
__________________

Anode is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2010, 02:43 PM   #23
Guru
 
jleonard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,738
Whats under the teak decks?

<q><q><q>5200 sucks as the stuff is far to hard to seperate and clean off at intervals


Well, I am a fan of 5200 as I have had excellent results (and luck) with it for sealing deck hardware.

However not sure I'd use it on the teak decks. We just re-caulked a bunch of our decks including the entire flybridge with TDS 440 and that stuff seems ( pun intended) to work great. I'd probably use that for deck fittings.
By the way we re-caulked as a PM task and I have to say it was no where near as difficult or time consuming as I have read.


</q></q></q>

-- Edited by jleonard on Thursday 26th of August 2010 02:44:00 PM
jleonard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2010, 02:42 PM   #24
Guru
 
Tom.B's Avatar
 
City: Cary, NC
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Skinny Dippin'
Vessel Model: Navigator 4200 Classic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,153
RE: Whats under the teak decks?

I've been told before that, really, 5200 should only be for projects below the waterline. If you ever see the need to take it apart, never use 5200.
Tom.B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2010, 04:07 PM   #25
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
RE: Whats under the teak decks?

Quote:
GonzoF1 wrote:

I've been told before that, really, 5200 should only be for projects below the waterline. If you ever see the need to take it apart, never use 5200.
Good advice.* For bedding hardware to our teak deck we generally use Lifecaulk.* For bedding the big laminated teak block that supports our anchor windlass we used Dolfinite.* 5200 would be a very bad thing to use because if you ever had to remove the hardware the upper layer of wood would separate before the hardware did.

The only thing that "encourages" 5200 to loosen its grip is heat.* I've never had occasion to do this, but I've been told by shipwrights we know that that's the one weapon against 5200.* That or being able to get*a thin, sharp*blade between the hardware and the surface it's fastened to.

Where 5200 is very good is at holding down things like hawses in the gunwales, backing plates for deck cleats, and so on.* Things that are not likely to ever need removing, or if they do, the reason for it will be pretty major and loosening the grip of 5200 will be the least of the problems to be dealt with.

*
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2010, 05:15 PM   #26
Guru
 
Tom.B's Avatar
 
City: Cary, NC
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Skinny Dippin'
Vessel Model: Navigator 4200 Classic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,153
RE: Whats under the teak decks?

I used it (well... someone else did) on the thru-bolts to my transom zinc. Would you not want to use it on all thru-hulls and seacocks?
Tom.B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2010, 08:57 AM   #27
Guru
 
jleonard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,738
RE: Whats under the teak decks?

I use 5200 for everything below the waterline. It works great and I have never had any real trouble removing it. Even when used above the waterline. A little heat or simply cutting thru part of the bond with a stiff putty knife works for me. A dab of*WD 40 lets the knife slip right in
jleonard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2010, 05:55 AM   #28
Hospitality Officer
 
Andy G's Avatar
 
City: Pittwater
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Sarawana
Vessel Model: IG 36 Quad Cabin
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,557
RE: Whats under the teak decks?

Quote:
patzfan4eva wrote:

*

"Have made an agreement to purchase a 1980 34ft*CHB tribcabin and the decking could use some work.* After discussing with my wife and brother-in-law who has a 36 grand banks, we think it might make more sense to pull the teak deck and put down noneskid.* I understand that 1980 should be full fiberglass cabins but does anyone know whats under the decking? is it marine plywood or fiberglass"

From my experience in redecking a 1978 34'CHB & a 1981 36' IG* it's probably best you don't look, unless you really have to. Have to, means spongy decks. If so take core samples, being careful not to go right through, take the samples around the filler caps and any through deck fittings. Also take some samples toward the stern, water follows gravity(usually)From my experience the decks are of a sandwich construction, if you are lucky they may be marine ply or in the case of IG's solid hardwood planks glued to the lower glass membrane.

*If you are unlucky they can be of anything that was to hand when laying down the boat.*That includes the wooden packing cases that the boat parts were delivered in! I kid you not.

*We have just finished re decking the IG, at first we thought we only needed to take up the old teak(954 screws).HA, 22 core sample later we gave up and removed the entire lower deck, dug out the mush, replaced with 9mm composite and bedded it in with 45kg of epoxy, replaced the old glass top, buit it up*to ready it for its new 9mm teak deck(love the teak)which, as is the way today, will be glued* not screwed. Not glued with epoxy however but a*newer*moreflexible sealant, (ask me in ten years).This took 2 of us 6 weeks full time, god knows what we would have paid if we got a yard to do it.

I mention all*this, not to either depress/impress you but to acknowledge the incredible restoration work that Anode and his wife have undertaken & achieved*rebuilding 'Scout' I know the*amount* of *work*that each of those pictures**entails, well done both of you/

By the way Anode*is that a mighty Fein tool I see in your hand?
*
Andy G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2010, 06:58 AM   #29
Guru
 
Anode's Avatar


 
City: Missourah
Country: USA
Vessel Name: M/V Scout
Vessel Model: Sundowner Tug 30'
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 645
RE: Whats under the teak decks?

Thanks "Shrimp" for the compliments.
I agree with your 'don't look unless you have to' statement. After 25 or 30 years it's going to be ugly under there.
We were lucky that Scout was built with end cut balsa coring and the fiberglass was structurally sound with the teak deck*removed. I really didn't know what I was getting into at the time.*I still felt it prudent to reglass the decks.
You were correct in giving my wife Julie credit for her part in this project. She truly loves this boat and is up there working every chance she gets.
I need to update the photo album as we're making continued progress.
Yes that is the mighty Fein tool in the photos. We have two of them. His and hers. No way I could live without my Fein's. Mortised in some piano hinges with one last weekend. Slick.
There's also*two Fein vacuums*on the boat as we use*dust collection on the*sanders. Again...his and hers.*
Love to see some photos of your deck project if you have some.
Thanks again for the nice compliment.
Chip and Julie
Anode is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2017, 11:02 PM   #30
Newbie
 
City: WOODLAND HILLS
Country: United States
Vessel Name: sea ductress
Vessel Model: chb 34
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anode View Post
Check out my photo album. Properly removing teak and reglassing decks is not for everybody. The results were worth it for me.
how can i see the pictures ? i have 1979 chb 34 i am ripping out my deck now to replace with fiberglass non skid i have run into shabby repairs where someone scabbed in new wood i need to replace rear starboard and part of the cockpit sub decks and would love any input
thanks mike
mike sullivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2017, 06:48 AM   #31
Guru
 
Tom.B's Avatar
 
City: Cary, NC
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Skinny Dippin'
Vessel Model: Navigator 4200 Classic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,153
Step one would be not to dig up a seven year-old thread. pretty sure people that use hosted picture sites let them expire. Try starting a new thread or searching for a newer one. Good luck
__________________
2000 Navigator 4200 Classic
(NOT a trawler)
Tom.B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2017, 09:26 AM   #32
Guru
 
alormaria's Avatar
 
City: Trenton
Country: USA
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 902
Why not repair the parts that are bad and continue to enjoy your beautiful teak decks?
__________________
Al Johnson
34' Marine Trader
"Angelina"
alormaria is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2017, 12:39 PM   #33
Guru
 
Xsbank's Avatar
 
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Country: Canada
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Vancouver Shipyards Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,447
I didn't read all this thread but CHBs are infamous for building their structures with old packing cases, bits of wood off the beach and encapsulating it all in fibreglass. Then they drill a thousand or so holes in the fibreglass to screw down a teak deck. What could go wrong? The other thing they did, the workers were so poor, they would drill the hole and then steal the screw, place the bung in the deck hole and sell the screws in the market! Not if but when the teak decks leak, the water gets into the substrate (that's being kind) and rots the wood. The deck then loses most of its integrity and a proper fix is to pull out all that rotten crap and put in nice marine or pressure treated plywood and reglass. If you are very lucky, you will not find that the water/rot has migrated into the cabin walls, that the windows (wood framed) have never leaked and you do not need to replace all the wood in the cabin walls too. Any sign of discolouration on the interior panelling, that lovely teak joinery, you can be sure you have an issue.

While doing this job, pull all the windows and rebed them!

One way to tell about the condition of the decks is to go into the rear stateroom and take down the teak plywood that covers the upper part of the side deck. The part you can't usually see unless you are lying in bed. Shine a flashlight in there and you will see the dark rot through the fibreglass (which does not have gelcoat there). There will likely be signs of wet on this panel you have dropped because they screwed that through the fibreglass too.

Good luck, its expensive and takes a huge effort to do but if you like the boat, it will be worth it.

I must have looked at a dozen of these boats over the years, while shopping for mine. All of the "affordable' boats needed this work, the expensive ones had already had this done. You could tell if each boat had this problem immediately, don't let the broker open the doors until you are there. The mould smell tells the tale.
__________________
Don't believe everything that you think.
Xsbank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2017, 01:06 PM   #34
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,877
My Albins main decks were nice teak ply, not rotten even though wet.

My flybridge eas built out of teak blocks with poured polyester over them....only a flaming idiot would do that on multiple levels.
__________________

psneeld is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Teak Decks Tony B General Discussion 16 04-09-2016 01:07 PM
IG teak decks Nomad Willy Island Gypsy/Halvorsen Designs 91 12-24-2012 06:09 PM
Durabak over teak decks see through? meridian General Maintenance 16 01-03-2012 06:09 AM
Old Boats and Teak Decks Tony B General Discussion 31 09-06-2011 05:18 PM
Teak decks KJ General Discussion 7 02-06-2011 06:17 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012