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Old 06-02-2015, 10:15 AM   #21
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I have found the tool used does not have to be as wide as the groove, but small thin enough to fit into the groove. I also use different size screw drivers. For the small hair line crack, I use Daily Sea fin which is a sealer that goes one as a thin liquid to soak in to post teak and down into the tiny cracks. I repair and seal the deck each year.

For the really small groves I just run the carpet knife up and down the grove. The carpet knife I use the most to cut the old caulking out. also I find it best to do a small area at a time about the area I can reach across.
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post
It looks like your decks are warn (been sanded?) and a groove to accept caulk needs to be re-cut. The original grooves are gone and the 1-2 mm groove in the picture is the butt edge of each deck plank?

How thick is the teak? I was taught that 3/8" of teak is considered serviceable for decks, ie: thick enough to accept screws/bungs and have enough thickness for caulking in the seams. Thinner than that, hope for the best or replace.
I have an area that looks like Brisyboy's photo in post #14, and its clear to me that Larry in on the money here.

In my case the teak was originally 1/2" thick with the caulking grooves likely to have been about 3/16" deep, although possibly 1/4". The PO had sanded repeatedly so now a lot of my deck is a little over 3/8" thick only. I had to remove slippery Cetol from my decking so I used 2 coats of paint stripper followed by a light sand to get rid of it. On the step from my Portuguese Bridge to the foredeck my sanding took the last of the caulking groove away in a few places. I am yet to router deeper groove - its a small area and doesn't really bother me the way it is.

But I do have the same issue as the OP for the deck around the Portuguese Bridge walkway. I soon need to decide whether to put teak back after repairing the wet core. I have just started to get a leak into the master cabin from it. On my foredeck I went with non-skid when replacing the wet balsa core, and like it there. But I am quite attached to teak in the walkways and cockpit.
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:03 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insequent View Post
I have an area that looks like Brisyboy's photo in post #14, and its clear to me that Larry in on the money here.

In my case the teak was originally 1/2" thick with the caulking grooves likely to have been about 3/16" deep, although possibly 1/4". The PO had sanded repeatedly so now a lot of my deck is a little over 3/8" thick only. I had to remove slippery Cetol from my decking so I used 2 coats of paint stripper followed by a light sand to get rid of it. On the step from my Portuguese Bridge to the foredeck my sanding took the last of the caulking groove away in a few places. I am yet to router deeper groove - its a small area and doesn't really bother me the way it is.

But I do have the same issue as the OP for the deck around the Portuguese Bridge walkway. I soon need to decide whether to put teak back after repairing the wet core. I have just started to get a leak into the master cabin from it. On my foredeck I went with non-skid when replacing the wet balsa core, and like it there. But I am quite attached to teak in the walkways and cockpit.
Howdy!

New member here. I have read every comment in this thread.

Noticed something in your comment that made me wonder if you or anyone here on TF has documented with photos, perhaps one personal blog, the replacement of the deck core as you described. Or perhaps a video of the process on YouTube. Anything like that?
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Old 11-25-2015, 10:40 PM   #24
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George, are your decks glued down?

To the original poster, if you don't like maintaining teak, get rid of them!

A Swiss Army knife, the small blade, works great for teak deck seams.
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Old 11-27-2015, 03:44 PM   #25
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Quick update from original post. This summer my wife spent a sunny afternoon on a friends nonskid deck, barefoot, and that was all it took to overrule my decision.

Found a guy that his been slowly repairing the deck, a few hours a week, which has been ideal to manage cash flow. We are about 85% done and I've spent about $2k USD.

The majority of the bungs and screws have been replaced. Many were missing, others loose. Each time a bung is replaced, first the old screw was removed, hole filled with epoxy and new screw installed. I'm leaving out a few steps, but that has been the basic process. If a screw head breaks, it is capped and a new hole and screw installed next to it. This has only happened a few times fortunately. We could have drilled the screw out, but I opted for the less labor option.

Caulking. Most of the existing material is in good condition, so he's been removing and replacing as needed. All new white installed around the house. I think 4200 was used for the white areas, but need to verify.

No sanding other then to flush each new bung.

Aft cabin, much of the teak surround at the edges was thin and lifting. Those areas have been removed and replaced with new teak.

Pending is to dig out the old rubber along the fly bridge seats and repair the lazurett cover.

Cheers from Catalina Harbor
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:50 PM   #26
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That looks really good! Inspiring
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:03 PM   #27
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Feeling smart having dropped the teak deck option to spend a significant amount less on a very loud air horn.

But my boat's exterior is somewhat commercial in appearance.
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Old 05-08-2016, 09:38 AM   #28
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Winty...

Have you heard about the get-together, anchoring at White Island on the afternoon of May 22nd, hosted by the folks from the yahoo chb group? I'm planning on attending. Perhaps you too... it would be appreciated that you take a look at my teak deck situation... if the get together wont work perhaps some other time... I am moored in Holiday Harbor in San Pedro.

Carl



QUOTE=winty;391318]Quick update from original post. This summer my wife spent a sunny afternoon on a friends nonskid deck, barefoot, and that was all it took to overrule my decision.

Found a guy that his been slowly repairing the deck, a few hours a week, which has been ideal to manage cash flow. We are about 85% done and I've spent about $2k USD.

Cheers from Catalina Harbor[/QUOTE]
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:07 AM   #29
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Hi Carl

Just missed you by 12 hours. We were anchored in the Isthmus yesterday afternoon. Underway right now from White's to Long Beach. 50% chance I'll be at the island weekend of May 22, based on work travel. I haven't been monitoring the yahoo forum for a few years, so thanks for the heads up.

I have a guy based in Long Beach that did the deck work for me. Slow, affordable, quality, I'll pm you his info as well as mine.
He's a better set of eyes to look at your decks, even if you want to DIY most of the work.
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