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Old 02-11-2016, 02:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by alormaria View Post
The drain holes in the teak window trim are about 3/8 to 1/2 inch in diameter. Not something that would disappear with a coating of paint. They are located at the lowest aft-most corner of each window. They usually have a short length of copper tubing (1/2" long) with a "flared" end. If they aren't visible then something is different or wrong.
Thanks, I will take a closer look to see that they did to the windows.
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:33 PM   #22
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With respect to the evils of silicone...I concur. However, the stuff does have its uses. It's a pretty normal sealant for architectural glass, good for a great long time. It's the stuff used for gluing mullionless glass window walls together. I've used it for gluing broken glass window panes back together. I've used it to glue the bottom pendant on a glass chandelier back on. I've used it to glue a broken ceramic soap dispenser back together.

That said, every source you can find, including manufacturer's reps., will tell you that you cannot ever get it off of the faying surfaces.

That also said, the ports in our sailboat were glued in with silicone by a PO. I was advised to simply buy new tempered glass and to grind the fiberglass down to a new, clean surface and rebed with an appropriate sealant. Being cheap, I cleaned the glass with Soft Scrub and handy solvents. All seems well after five years.
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:28 PM   #23
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Take a drill and shoot a hole in each corner, at an angle for water to drain from, or just the down slope side. Best if you can over drill, fill with thickened resin then redrill a smaller hole. There are not any hard fast rules, mostly a SWAG.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:13 PM   #24
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Unpaintable Silicone?

There are many versions of silicone, but the most common here are "Roof & Gutter" and "Bathroom". The former will take paint, the latter won`t(said he, hoping he remembered which is which ).
A temptation to use silicone is the reusable nature of leftover product vs the difficulty of preserving Sikaflex etc for later use. It`s fine in a boatyard where the tube gets used fast, or on big jobs. But, wastage pales into insignificance when I weigh the cost of a tube to properly seal a timber window defect against the cost of repairing the window timbers.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:16 PM   #25
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My leaks were a result of the weep hole being directed thru a teak board. I removed the teak trim board, drilled thru the backing board with a 1 1/2" forstner bit where the weep holes are located, squared the holes at the top with a chisel, ran a waxed dowel rod thru the weep hole and glassed over the dowel, creating a drain pipe. I then bedded the new fiberglass drain in Teak Decking Systems sealant and replaced the trim board.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:24 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
There are many versions of silicone, but the most common here are "Roof & Gutter" and "Bathroom". The former will take paint, the latter won`t(said he, hoping he remembered which is which ).
Actually, the architectural caulk is "siliconized" and will accept paint. "100% Silicone" will not. Bathroom silicone caulk is regular (100%) silicone with a mildew preventative in it. Never use it to seal an aquarium or it will be fish for dinner.
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Old 02-13-2016, 04:26 AM   #27
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Quote:
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Greetings,
Mr. PB. "...without affecting the actual frame to glass seal under the timber..." I beg to differ. You ARE, in fact compromising the whole area by using silicone. ANY future repairs will be next to impossible to successfully complete once any of the surfaces are contaminated with silicone UNLESS you re-use silicone. Forget about paint adhesion. I stand by my $2/tube cheap latex caulk suggestion if you want to try to exclude a simple leak.
Poppycock RT, poppycock. I'm talking about putting a fine smear of silicone where no sealant is normally used, on the outside of the glass just up to the inside edge of the outside frame. Not pretty I grant you, but fairly unobtrusive, can be painted over, and sometimes - not always - but sometimes, saves the day, if the rest of the installation is reasonably sound, and the water is just sneaking in between the glass and the outside frame.
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Old 02-13-2016, 09:37 PM   #28
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Help - Infamous Leaking Taiwanese Windows

Here are some close ups. This is of the starboard windows in aft cabin, not the leaky port side. I didn't want to take off my plastic covering window in the 17 degree weather.

I know see weep holes as someone suggested I should in a previous post. Once it warms up I can test them.



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Old 02-14-2016, 02:46 AM   #29
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With the Canadian dollar in the toilet I'd suggest you look at new "clamp-in" windows from Bomon .... a bargain if you're buying with US dollars.

I have just irecently completed installation of 17 of these in my boat and it's the third boat I've done this with over the last 25years, never seen a leak again.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:20 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raymond.goff View Post
Here are some close ups.


Attachment 48813Attachment 48814
Them windows ain't natural. That's not standard issue Taiwanese workmanship. They been messed with.
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Old 02-14-2016, 05:42 PM   #31
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I know. The "Decks & Cabin Top replaced and re-fiberglassed, & Entire Boat Painted (04/05)". I think that is when they did the windows.
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Old 02-29-2016, 02:34 PM   #32
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The first 6 Windows took days to remove as I was trying to save the teak and just replace the broken glass and seal the leaks. Now I know that was a waste of time and two multi tools on black goo.

This time I used a circular saw and cut the entire window out. I cut thru the frames to keep the original size hole. If you are ok with a 3/4 in larger window, run the saw around the frame. Then you won't have a 1/2 in of trim to remove. Removed the 4 salon windows in 2 days. After the new ones come a day to install with sikaflex. Pics to follow unless I can figure how to upload from my phone.
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:27 PM   #33
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I just posted photos of a number of projects on DIRT FREE on my website including replacement of 17 leaky wood frame windows with Custom Bomon aluminum frame units
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:46 PM   #34
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Ray another thing to look at is the wood "drip rail" around the top of the aft cabin. Rain water comes off the flybridge roof and drips on the aft cabin roof and also directly on this rail. If you watch this in a heavy downpour the water will run down the drip edge and try to find a way in at screw holes and un-caulked gaps. It also will curl around the drip edge and wick itself in on the bottomside of the edge. dont ask me how I know good luck, Bruce
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:29 PM   #35
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I'm a newbie just today...hope I'm doing this right.


What is the consensus on bedding material for glass against plywood that is held in place by exterior trim screwed to the ply? Seems the choices are butyl rubbers, polysulfides, and polyurethanes. What will stick to both wood and glass and provide a seal?
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:36 PM   #36
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I supplied an answer in your first thread. Might want to keep just one thread going at a time to keep all answers in one place.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:51 PM   #37
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I guess polyether is another option (West Marine Multicaulk)
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Old 12-09-2016, 10:35 PM   #38
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I think the prejudice against silicone is a tad overstated. It has its place. I had a very leaky skylight with two panes of glass on this boat when I got it. Took both panes out, put two new panes in with silicone. No leaks and looks great. I also went around to all my outside windows and using a tool dragged out a lot of old non silicone caulk that was all dried out and pulled away and leaking. Cleaned it all out and then put a nice bead into the fresh gap and left it a bit proud and now watch it shed water nicely and no more water in the house from leaky windows. Is it the best? No. Is it OK for occasional use and putting off bigger jobs till later? Sure. Its also a lot easier to get stuff apart with sili than if one uses Sika or 5200.
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Old 12-09-2016, 11:05 PM   #39
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Ok, sicilicone prejudice! Guilty! My PO used it. Everywhere outside he used it the white turned black. Have had to sand and grind it off. Replaced with 3M 4300 and no problems. Paint will not even stick to the stuff. I wish you better luck than I had with it. Worked great in the galley and shower however.

I will continue to pay a little more for 3M.
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Old 12-09-2016, 11:29 PM   #40
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Hi folks, Here is a product that works well for those leaking windows
CAPTAIN TOLLEY'S Crack Cure Sealant, 2 OZ. | West Marine

I have unlimited success with this product to the extent that I have not completely used a bottle up as other persons require it and the bottle is offered never to return!!
Just continue to trace your window frames till the fluid will not be absorbed per instructions.
Neat stuff well worth the purchase.

Al-Ketchikan
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