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Old 06-03-2019, 07:22 AM   #21
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Well, on a routine visit to the boat, I arrived to find the front cabin hatch lying on the floor. The whole lot, timber frame and all, had ripped clean out of the fiberglass.
To make it worse, a storm was about to hit and I had about half an hour to come up with a repair before the heavens opened. I grabbed some offcuts of plywood from the top deck and whipped up a temporary hatch cover. Thank god for 18v tools.

This has made me slightly worried about how much rot is there and how quickly things degrade. I need to get onto this asap.
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:39 AM   #22
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So last weekend I decided I was going to do something about it. I started stripping off the trims and trying to carefully remove the timber that I can either re-use, or use as a template to make new ones.
After a day on the water I was able to uncover the puzzle to how these boats are put together. I was always curious as to how the different moulds were joined. Well, it seems the front deck wraps around the bow in one piece, and has a lip of fiberglass that the mould for the cabin top is bolted to. This join is covered by the interior timbers, and the timber decking outside.

I will hopefully be able to remove the teak decking to expose the bolt heads on the outside, and I have already exposed the nuts on the inside. If I can undo or cut these small 5mm bolts, I can hopefully lift off the fiberglass cabin top.

I will be returning in a week or so to continue stripping out the front cabin and bathroom to expose all of the structural timbers as I know there will have rot in them too.
More to come soon.
See the attached pics.
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:17 AM   #23
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Greetings,
Mr. 34. I was hesitant to comment on your re-build previously due to faulty/non existent memory cells but your pictures have helped to recall what I experienced 25+ years ago.
It appears you have exactly the same situation we had with our 1974 MT DC. Our 34's front cabin was constructed of a timber framework covered with 1/2" ply wood THEN sheathed with FRP. NO molds involved in our case. The side layer and the top layer were seamed underneath the 1/2 round teak molding you show on the outside of the cabin in picture #3 (post #21).
You may be further ahead to completely remove the FRP shell, construct a new framework, sheath with ply and re-glass rather than attempting to wiggle-fit new pieces into place. Just a thought...


Edit: Sorry Mr. 34. Just re-read the whole thread and what I suggested seems to be what you're planning to do...


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Old 06-03-2019, 09:51 PM   #24
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Great project!

Keep us updated. Pleeeese.
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Old 06-04-2019, 07:26 AM   #25
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Cabin

RT, you had this similar issue years ago? No photos I am assuming.
Did you track down the source of water entry? Mine seems to be the corners of the windscreen and the screw holes that hold the timber trim that wraps around the top section of the outer fiberglass

I will certainly keep you all updated. I have the boat booked in to be lifted out of the water for an antifoul and put on the hardstand for me to work on for a week.

A few funny things I found, the original battery charger was hidden behind a hatch in the forward cupboard. Marked as "Chen ming chang machine company". Who else still has one of these bad boys??
Also, evidence of one of the builders making a mistake with the hinges. They were accidently notched out on the wrong side of the door opening, and then filled in. The two lower doors in the front cabin were never there when my dad bought the boat over 20 years ago. I wonder what happened to them?
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Old 06-04-2019, 07:37 AM   #26
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wow . looks like you have a plan . i would look into coosa board just to protect from future leaks . defiantly keep us informed . i think i have some issues but i hope they are mostly limited to the rear cabin . thanks for the insight .
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Old 06-04-2019, 08:29 AM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. 34. Pictures? With a camera? From 25+ years ago? Heck we only got indoor plumbing last month.





Difficult to tell the source of OUR leaks but most probably the same as yours. I'm still attempting to remember the situation. I think our cabin sides were mostly gone and I think I re-did the roof structure with 2" X 2" beams covered with two glued layers of 1/4" marine ply wood. There was not much curvature to the roof that I recall.

We also had a raised hatch similar to this:





I would most definitely keep that relic battery charger. VERY handy to have a 12V power supply to use when testing electrical stuff at home on the workbench. Looks basically like a variable DC power supply. Again, VERY handy IMO.


AHA!!!! I just remembered! Our cabin sides were rotted and in the same shape (non existent) as yours AND, I remember how I did the repairs! EGAD!!! I remembered!


There is a lip (pictures 1 to 4, post #22 above) that is continuous with the bottom of your side deck that curves up inside and encapsulates the cabin sides to a height of about 2". I cleaned out all the rotten wood from this "groove" and filled the groove with pieces of 1/2" marine ply wrapped in wet resin. I also applied several layers of FRP mat and cloth to the inside of the existing outer skin. More....
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Old 06-04-2019, 08:39 AM   #28
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Greetings,
More: (didn't want to lose the above post).


By building up the inside of the existing forward cabin with FRP, I didn't have to worry about the fit of any replacement wood as I wasn't using any. It probably ended up 1/4+ thick and was solid. I also used the same (jamb a piece of wet wrapped ply into the void) technique with the corner supports (your picture #1-right hand side, above) as well, to tie everything together.



Make any sense? Not saying what I did was correct but it seemed to work at the time. I used polyester resin throughout.



Hope this helps...
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Old 06-04-2019, 05:27 PM   #29
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Haha thanks RT, not that I think about it, itís a bit of a silly question. You tend to forget how precious photos were back in the film days, and you most certainly didnít just snap photos of everything.I got my first digital camera in about 2004 (15 years ago), and camera phones certainly make things easy nowadays, you tend to take it for granted.

Itís funny you mention how you repaired yours, because thatís exactly what I was planning on doing originally. Until I saw the extent of the damage, and how far back it extended under the windscreen. Because of the lack of support, the windscreen has dropped slightly and cracked a pane of glass. Iím going to have to prop it up and replace the timber framework to restore the strength. I also had reservations about fiberglassing upside down. As I am new to it, I thought I would let gravity help me at first until I get some practice. Did you have any issues with the new poly resin sticking to the old stuff?

I will certainly keep the old charger, not in the boat though as it isnít the most suitable charger for maintenance free and AGM batteries.
Thanks for the feedback, itís great to have opinions and advice.
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Old 06-04-2019, 06:20 PM   #30
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Greetings,
Mr. 34. "You tend to forget..." Yes. EVERYTHING!!!


I don't think I did both the cabin sides and the roof at the same time. I DID glass the sides as I described and I DID do the roof as I described above but I did the sides one year and the roof a few years later. I don't recall any adhesion problems using polyester resin. The fact that the sides were solid meant a good base for the roof supports.


Wish I could remember more. Sorry.


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Old 06-04-2019, 06:49 PM   #31
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Wish I could remember more. Sorry.


A memory is a terrible thing to misplace, isnít it, or did I forget something?
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:31 AM   #32
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Mooring

So todayís job was to re-install the mooring tyre. It was looking a bit sad, didnít have much yellow on it, and the steel eye bolt was wearing a bit thin. It was removed a few weeks ago, towed over to the boat ramp and pushed up into the back of the van to take home. Let me tell you, it was bloody heavy (still full of water).
My dad welded up the steel plates, repaired the damage to the tyre and gave it a new paint job. He did an amazing job.
Having a tyre just makes mooring a breeze, especially on your own. For those who arenít aware, there is a sleeve in the top of the steel plate, when you leave the mooring, you slot a post about 1.8m high with a hook on the top, into the hole in the tyre and hook the mooring rope onto it. Even in a big swell or huge wind, I can simplly drive up to the mooring, walk out the pilot house door and grab the rope from the pole and place it straight over the Samson post. No hanging over the bow with a boat hook hoping to grab the rope on the first attempt. When done, pull out the pole, switch off the motor and make a cup of coffee.
Anyway here are a few pics of it. The wife and kids were extremely keen to watch.
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:32 AM   #33
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Please excuse the photos I don’t know why they keep loading like this, I’ll try and fix tomorrow
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:13 AM   #34
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May have to do w the orientation of the camera when you take the picture. Mine wind up up-side-down frequently when I use my i-pad. Camera never.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:26 AM   #35
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Well guys itís been a busy week.
The local marina has been stuffing me around so dad and I ended up towing the boat to another well known marina on the Hawkesbury but it was a 3 hour journey. Luckily we had a beautiful morning, no wind and the tide was on our side.
As the boat had no steering due to the rear chain needing repair, and the motor wasnít pumping raw water due to blocked intake, we borrowed a boat and tied along side. I was amazed how well it moved along and very maneuverable too.
As visibility was an issue, I was in lookout while dad drove, but I set up a camera with a small monitor so he could see ahead.
The guys at the marina met us and before we knew it, the slings were on and up she went.
Not a lot of growth considering the 4 years between lifting. The anodes were almost gone though.
The hull was scraped, pressure washed and sanded back, followed by a prime coat and two top coats of antifoul. Great job!
That crane was just incredible to watch. It moved the boat around like a toy.
With all empty tanks and almost everything taken off, she weighed in at 8.5 ton.
I took the opportunity to keep it out of the water for a week on the stand for repairs.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:29 AM   #36
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Just a little sneak peek into whatís to come next...
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:56 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 34Clipper View Post
Just a little sneak peek into whatís to come next...
Amazing job and great thread ...thanks for taking the time to post all your work it is really useful to many of us as well as being interesting. looks like you are at Fenwicks for the lift and hard stand. I keep my boat at Koolewong between Woy Woy and Gosford. Where is your regular mooring?
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:02 PM   #38
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I donít know if you realize it, but you have a fairly large hole in your bow... What a project. Keep the photos coming, I like the fact that someone is even crazier than me.
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Old 07-12-2019, 07:13 AM   #39
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Thanks guys.
Happy to document it all. It would have been extremely handy if someone else had already done it so I wasnít flying blind.
Aquabelle it was Fenwicks. Couldnít have been happier with their work too.
Itís moored at Berowra normally.
Yes rather large hole in the bow, but beats a large amount of spreading rot I guess
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:54 AM   #40
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are you going to be able to use the old skin to add too or do you have to start from scratch? how bad is the beam below the windows? if you do as good with this as the upper deck it will work out great . thanks for documenting . she looks good with the new bottom.
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