Since taking down the mast on my IG, I sanded it since the paint was chalking real badly. Sanded and used a Rustolium primer. Something tells me that I should have used an AwlGrip primer and paint. Can somebody clear that up that has some experience with AwlGrip paint. I like the paint to be tough and UV resistant so that I don't have to do this again anytime soon.
Mast paint
- Thread starter sunvale
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I don't know what's right but here's what we're doing. Everything will be sanded, mast, boom and paravane poles, down to bare surface metal then we'll clean with Alumiprep 33, then 3 coats of Aiodine 1201, then 3 coats of 545 Awlgrip Corrosive Epoxy Primer, then prep and paint with 3 coats of Awlgrip paint.
The Alumiprep 33 is a phosphoric acid cleaner.
DGR Industrial Products, Inc. :: Specialty Coatings :: Conversion Coatings :: Alodine Chromate Conversion For Aluminum Alloys :: Alumiprep 33 Aluminum Cleaner
The Alumiprep 33 is a chromate.
Alodine® 1201
It might be over kill but after taking everything down and stripping off every pieces of hardware. Hopefully, this will be the the last time we ever do it.
We,ve hired a local to do the sanding and painting. Here's a picture of the start.
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Would be nice if mine was made of aluminum but it's fiberglass with a wood core and heavy as hell. I sanded it down to the glass, but have the feeling I should have left the Rustolium primer off[/QUOTE
The Alwgrip 545 primer is also recommended for fiberglass.
I will do that. Awlgrip sounds great but I find it a mumble jumble trying to figure out the steps to take for a good application. I called the tech line and still have not heard from them. The stuff is just to costly not to know what the right way is in applying the paint etc.
There are other 2 part polyurethanes that are just as good and some will say even better than Algrip. Hatteras Yachts, who has been using Algrip since the 70's, switched to Axlseal. Axlseal is supposably better and easier to repair. We are using Algrip because it is what is available here and Algrip is what our painter Nigel uses.
Regardless of what you use, a two part polyurethane is going to more durable thus longer longer lasting than a one part.
I just finished the boom with Rustolium and will do the mast with one of the 2 part Urethane's and see what they look like. I had the boom primed with Rustolium and did not like the idea of having to sand that all of again.
I'll report back.
I'll report back.
Capn Chuck
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Maybe this might help a bit. Voyages of Sea Trek: Refurbishing The Spars . Chuck
FF
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With any paint on aluminum the hassles come with blisters , and the mast then dissolving under the paint.
If you can stand the look stripping and cleaning down to bare will have the mast live longest.
If you can stand the look stripping and cleaning down to bare will have the mast live longest.
I'm in the Great lakes area. Fresh water an minimal corrosion on metal surfaces. Plus the mast is made of fiberglass and so I don't have the corrosive concern there either.
Just finished the boom with Rustolium and the finish is so so. Since I used a roller and allowed the paint to float, it did not get the coverage that I would have liked.
Just finished the boom with Rustolium and the finish is so so. Since I used a roller and allowed the paint to float, it did not get the coverage that I would have liked.
Capn Chuck
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Ummm, the poster says it's fiberglass. Leaving exposed aluminum on a mast if the boat is going anywhere near salt water is a very bad idea. That's why mast manufacturers anodize them. Chuck
psneeld
Guru
Anodizing them just keeps the looking purdy...I'm pretty sure aluminum ...almost all of the alloys are self-protecting...a mast should only get a dousing of salt infrequently enough that the salt crystals can be washed off before real harm is done.
Not to say it will have a pretty chalkiy appearance like a cheap screen door...but it shouldn't be compromised by being left unfinished...not as a mast at least.
skipperdude
Guru
I would think it would be best to use the primer for what ever paint you intend to use.
i.e. Rustolieum primer for Rustolieum paint.
The company's research this to find the best bond to bond.
Primer isn't just all purpose.
Sd
i.e. Rustolieum primer for Rustolieum paint.
The company's research this to find the best bond to bond.
Primer isn't just all purpose.
Sd
I agree. Use products from a single manufacturer and products intended to be used together by that manufacturer. And follow the manufacturer's instructions for preparation and application.
Went to West Marine and purchased upon recommendation some paint and primer for the mast. After reading the cans label I returned the stuff cause it was not intended to be used on a Mast, (bright work).
Received some new stuff and coated the mast and boom with a coat of primer.
20 hours later the stuff will still stick to my fingers. According to the label it should be dry after 15 hours.
Something tells me that if a person wants some advise on boat paint, don't ask any self designated experts in the field.
Last time I shop at West Marine....
Received some new stuff and coated the mast and boom with a coat of primer.
20 hours later the stuff will still stick to my fingers. According to the label it should be dry after 15 hours.
Something tells me that if a person wants some advise on boat paint, don't ask any self designated experts in the field.
Last time I shop at West Marine....
skipperdude
Guru
Sometimes drying takes as long as it takes.
Time, temperature and humidity.
There are drying agents.
Dark colors dry faster. White takes the longest.
SD
Time, temperature and humidity.
There are drying agents.
Dark colors dry faster. White takes the longest.
SD
I have worked as a shipwright for many years, painted, sanded and build a great many boat molds. So sanding and painting a simple trawler mast and boom is and should not be rocket science. Although I have been away from boat chemicals for many years and thus have to rely on the suggestion of supposed informed sale personnel which turning out to be a mistake.
I should have stuck with my old methods and formulas for painting.
The gel coat on the mast and boom was chalking pretty badly and I was going to just simply sand it down and refinish. That turned out not to be simple.
Sorry to vent, there won't be any more.
I should have stuck with my old methods and formulas for painting.
The gel coat on the mast and boom was chalking pretty badly and I was going to just simply sand it down and refinish. That turned out not to be simple.
Sorry to vent, there won't be any more.
Phil Fill
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Was it two part paint? If not mixed correctly 2 parts can take a long time and not get the results. I will never use two part paint if there is a one part just as good. The only two part I use is Epoxy which is sanded and painted over. I paint/varnish is late July, August and early September when the times are 70+ and the boat is bone dry. No use painting in cold temps and/or the boat is wet/moist.
The Eagle boom, aluminum, has been pained for 12+ years with one part Bright Side and it has not bubbled. 95% of the result is the prep work, not the top gloss pretty coat. If you watch a professional boat painter it’s the prep and primer that covers/protects, not the final gloss coat. Most newbee, dirt paint thinking ONE coat covers all.
The Eagle boom, aluminum, has been pained for 12+ years with one part Bright Side and it has not bubbled. 95% of the result is the prep work, not the top gloss pretty coat. If you watch a professional boat painter it’s the prep and primer that covers/protects, not the final gloss coat. Most newbee, dirt paint thinking ONE coat covers all.
BruceK
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Re the discussion on repainting aluminum (I`m aware Sunvale`s mast is f/g), guys at the boatyard told me to prime immediately after sanding back bare, before the surface starts to oxidise again. I thought I got that right with my windlass cover,seems I didn`t,corrosion is evident under the 2 pack, it has to be stripped and redone.BruceK
psneeld
Guru
It certainly is in the first step of corrosion...oxidation....which forms it's own protective barrier so it actually arrests corrosion...so other than the ugly paint job now...it has probably stopped any further corrosion.
2 days of drying and I can leave finger prints on the primer. looks like this stuff is going back to the dealer as well.
Going to let it cure one more day and than strip it as well. Going to go Gel Coat and do the sanding.
Although I might just take some advise from a previous post and not use the mast at all. Just don't know what to do with the radar can.
Going to let it cure one more day and than strip it as well. Going to go Gel Coat and do the sanding.
Although I might just take some advise from a previous post and not use the mast at all. Just don't know what to do with the radar can.
FF
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"Leaving exposed aluminum on a mast if the boat is going anywhere near salt water is a very bad idea. That's why mast manufacturers anodize them."
Visited a number of mast MFG when a builder, and darn few have the ability to anodize a spreader , never mind a mast.
An interesting concept is that many mast MFG that leave the aluminum , and not sucker a paint job , will coat the mast with the oil that is used on cement forms to assure seperation.
This forma a seal , but does not capture moisture below the paint surface if scratched.
Clear and cheap.
Stock cookie sail boats became popular in the 1970's, most with bare spars , most still exist today.
FF
Visited a number of mast MFG when a builder, and darn few have the ability to anodize a spreader , never mind a mast.
An interesting concept is that many mast MFG that leave the aluminum , and not sucker a paint job , will coat the mast with the oil that is used on cement forms to assure seperation.
This forma a seal , but does not capture moisture below the paint surface if scratched.
Clear and cheap.
Stock cookie sail boats became popular in the 1970's, most with bare spars , most still exist today.
FF
If the label says it should be dry after 15 hours and it's not dry after 20 hours, how is that the fault of the person at West Marine? Seriously?
Either the paint is defective or you didn't apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions. I'm betting on the latter, but why not call the manufacturer and ask for their help and advice?
