Inspecting Engine

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Ron T

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2007
Messages
328
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Grand Yankee
Vessel Make
1981 49' Grand Banks Classic
I found a SP-355 Lehman that has not run in 4 years. The owner had fill the crankcase with 10wt oil and sprayed fogger down the air intake, also close off the exhaust. I am afraid to just hook up a battery and hit the started. May have water in Cyl. May have rust on rings an that would just break them. I am looking for advice on what steps to take before I just turn it over to see if free. With a gas engine I would pull the plugs and spray rust buster type solvent into cyl. and try to turn over slowly with crow bar on fly wheel. Not that simple with a 474 CID diesel engine.* Thank you for any advice.
 
if it has water in it it is already done so not much to lose maybe turn over with a breaker bar first git rid of the 10 wt I there is water in the cylinder you will see some in the oil
 
Unplug the intake and exhaust , make the oil level correct on the dip stick.

Use a tube from a small hand pump to make sure there is no water UNDER the oil .

Rotate 2 turns with a breaker bar , install a hot battery check the fuel is on.and start it up.
 
While you're at it and before you start the engine, change the fuel filter, oil *and oil filter. To get all the accumulated grit out, heat the pan bottom a bit and drain the old oil from the bottom of the pan, not with a suction pump.

Be sure the engine is tied down well, they can walk a lot as they stumble around*from a long layover.
 
"drain the old oil from the bottom of the pan, not with a suction pump"

Easy to say , but,

On most boats this is impossible with out first removing the engine
 
FF

The way I (mis) read the OP was the engine was not necessarily marinized nor*in a boat or tractor but on the hard.
 
If the engine is "frozen" it can be safely unfrozen by getting a product called "Sea Foam" around the outside of the top of the pistons. Leave set (days if necessary) and bar the engine over when it's ready. Then follow the above. Fred summed it up nicely.

Eric
 
Sea Foam, Krolls , PB Blaster , diesel fuel or ATF.

All will penetrate enough to free a stuck engine IF given TIME.

Unsticking will NOT cure rust pits and the loss of compression on an engine that was not put to bed properly .

That takes a boring bar on a throw away,, or a set of cylinders and pistons on an industrial engine
 
Thank you all for input; I will carefully unscrew each injector and mark its position. Vacuum and clean around hole so no debrie falls in. Try to bore scope cylinder if possible, put some magic fluid in each hole. Plug holes. wait a day. take plugs out and slowly turn engine over with crow bar. Once I know it is free, add a little more fluid to holes and turn over with starter. Drain all oils, change fuel and oil filters. Could there be light rust on valve seats ? should I take valve cover off and lube and lightly tap valves to make sure there free ? I guess a good time to send out injectors to be checked. Re install, set valves cold. hook up and prime fuel. Battery on line and push the button after a short look up at the sky and say PLEASE. Any input to better plan of attack , please let me know. Thanks again. Ron T.
 
Be ready for the Air Police to visit after she starts , all that oil will make great smoke.

"Could there be light rust on valve seats ? should I take valve cover off and lube and lightly tap valves to make sure there free ? "

In theory it could happen and would cost a pushrod or two , but it would be evident if you removed the valve cover and found wall to wall rust.
 
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