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geoleo 03-19-2018 08:32 PM

Painting the Varnish WHICH PAINT??
 
I'm about to embark on getting the outside varnish painted on my new to me MT 34:rofl: DC. Sherwin Williams offers several paints in the color I want. They are : Industrial Enamel HS alkyd. SeaGuard 1000 Marine Alkyd Enamel .Pro Industrial Waterbased Alkyd Urethane Enamel . Anyone here ever used these paints ? Color to be "Saucy Gold" Or "Marigold ."

menzies 03-19-2018 08:40 PM

OK, I guess I don't quite understand what you are doing.

Are you planning on painting over the existing varnish, or stripping it back to the wood and applying a primer and then the paint?

HopCar 03-19-2018 08:56 PM

I’m not familiar with any of those paints but I would avoid the water based one. Water based paints have not been very successful as marine paints. I would also avoid two part paints as the strong solvents used will likely lift the varnish.

My choice would be Interlux Briteside.

menzies 03-19-2018 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HopCar (Post 646662)
Iím not familiar with any of those paints but I would avoid the water based one. Water based paints have not been very successful as marine paints. I would also avoid two part paints as the strong solvents used will likely lift the varnish.

My choice would be Interlux Briteside.

For choice would you paint over varnish?

HopCar 03-19-2018 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by menzies (Post 646665)
For choice would you paint over varnish?

Until recently no I wouldnít. There was a recent thread talking about this and someone suggested that if you wanted to revert to varnish in the future, a coat of varnish would keep the paint out of the wood grain. This would save you a lot of sanding when you wanted to go back to varnish. Iíve never tried it.

Simi 60 03-19-2018 09:27 PM

We painted our rails in self priming water based Sherman Williams housepaint.
Sanded flaking varnish off to bare wood with 60 grit on a sander and rolled in two coats.

2 years down the track , zero cover and in a semi tropical climate it looks as good as the day it went on.
All above deck timber currently getting the same treatment.

geoleo 03-19-2018 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HopCar (Post 646662)
Iím not familiar with any of those paints but I would avoid the water based one. Water based paints have not been very successful as marine paints. I would also avoid two part paints as the strong solvents used will likely lift the varnish.

My choice would be Interlux Briteside.

Bird doo lifts Brightside unless it is removed quickly- Brightside also losses most of its gloss in 2 years.

menzies 03-19-2018 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simi 60 (Post 646674)
We painted our rails in self priming water based Sherman Williams housepaint.
Sanded flaking varnish off to bare wood with 60 grit on a sander and rolled in two coats.

2 years down the track , zero cover and in a semi tropical climate it looks as good as the day it went on.
All above deck timber currently getting the same treatment.

Yes, but you took all the varnish off and painted the wood from bare.

Here we are thinking about painting over the varnish.

geoleo 03-19-2018 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by menzies (Post 646659)
OK, I guess I don't quite understand what you are doing.

Are you planning on painting over the existing varnish, or stripping it back to the wood and applying a primer and then the paint?

It has fresh Vietnam varnish- which will not hold up in Florida- I'm using that as a primer and just sanding to rough up. In places where the wood is bare and was not Vietnamesed varnished-I'm sanding smooth-then primer -then 2 coats of one of the paints I listed.

menzies 03-19-2018 09:45 PM

Do you have a lot of wood, would it be prohibitive to take it all back to the base and redo?

FF 03-20-2018 06:16 AM

I would sand the old varnish lightly and use an oil based primer , then any single part oil paint.

This will make stripping easier as primer is softer than enamel and allow the scraping to have a warning strip at the top of the varnish.

The masking would not need to be removed between the primer coat and the covering paint.

So its not much extra work.

psneeld 03-20-2018 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geoleo (Post 646676)
Bird doo lifts Brightside unless it is removed quickly- Brightside also losses most of its gloss in 2 years.

Not quite sure what birds and sun exist near your boat..... :D

Pelicans? :eek:

But brightside in my world and quite a few others seem to do fine against both.

Mine doesnt care about bird crap, even if left till a rainstorm ....and it does dull a tad, not being a 2 part.... so its no mirror but has enough shine to look as good as the rest of the boat. But it will bubble if something wet is left on it for weeks on end.

Unless you are doing a total makeover with a 2 part and removing most external features.....most will agree that brightside is good enough compared to the expense and labor of the alternative.

And for me, not having a climate controlled shed, I am not going to waste my time worrying about the perfect job as it wouldnt happen anyhow or on a reasonable time table.

The types of paint you are discussing are good paints, similar what we use on the assistance towboats. They dull way more and faster than brightside (we have used both, even at the same time on different parts of the boat). But we repaint the hulls every year as they get abused and the white uppers, a little dull but clean looks goid from the end of a tow line... :D

The best expert job I have seen on painted teak is OC Divers boat, who epoxied and filled first..... his rails look like painted glass over steel. :thumb:

Donna 03-20-2018 07:22 AM

I did this. Painted all my exterior bright work. Sand then apply 6-7 coats of Pettit EZ Poxy. I unscrewed all my bright work, it made it easier. It’s been 1 1/2 years and still looks good.

Larry M 03-20-2018 07:55 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by geoleo (Post 646676)
Bird doo lifts Brightside unless it is removed quickly- Brightside also losses most of its gloss in 2 years.

Weíve been using one part Brightsides for 10 plus years on our exterior pilot house doors, eye brow and name boards. The name boards have been stripped down and the lettering replaced once since weíve owned Hobo (11 years). We get 3-7 years before I have to touch up but being a one part, itís easier and it blends in well. We also use their primer.

There are no perfect paints.

C lectric 03-20-2018 10:38 AM

I have been seriously considering painting over some of the varnished wood. Love its look but the load is finally getting to me. My side window frames have a lot of detail causing hours of prep and varnishing.

Yes, I will overpaint the varnish so if I, or the next owners, ever decide to go back it will be possible.

I contacted Interlux and they told me:
--- not to use a two part paint as the solvents will lift the varnish no matter how well it is primed.
---the Brightside paint will do a good job.



As far as I'm concerned if it goes to a 5-7 year repainting interval that would be a huge relief. As it is now the varnish need sanding and recoating every year.

HopCar 03-20-2018 04:20 PM

Briteside or Pettit Ez Poxy will start to lose gloss at about the two year mark in South Florida. The further north you are, the longer it will last. I’m happy with it out to about three years. At that point I think it needs a light sanding and another coat.

If you are in South Florida and only get two years before you feel the need to recoating the Briteside, you will have avoided recoating the varnish at least three times.

O C Diver 03-20-2018 07:30 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by psneeld (Post 646739)
The best expert job I have seen on painted teak is OC Divers boat, who epoxied and filled first..... his rails look like painted glass over steel. :thumb:

How teak cap rails are meant to look. :D

Attachment 74377

Attachment 74378

We refer to this as Awlgrip for teak. :dance:

Ted

menzies 03-20-2018 07:34 PM

Black?

Ughhhhhhh.

O C Diver 03-20-2018 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by menzies (Post 646919)
Black?

Ughhhhhhh.

Poor inside florescent lighting. It's Carinthia Blue.

Everyone who has seen it, really likes it. Boot stripes are the same color.

Ted

C lectric 03-20-2018 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HopCar (Post 646867)
Briteside or Pettit Ez Poxy will start to lose gloss at about the two year mark in South Florida. The further north you are, the longer it will last. Iím happy with it out to about three years. At that point I think it needs a light sanding and another coat.

If you are in South Florida and only get two years before you feel the need to recoating the Briteside, you will have avoided recoating the varnish at least three times.

I fully expect your timetable is right for your area. I've seen Brightside in other uses where I like and it's not unreasonable to expect a 5 year cycle.
For me that would be a huge bonus.

Last year I just missed 200 hr and I did not get everything, close but not quite.

Darn boat expect to be used. Well, my wife and I expected to use it.

menzies 03-21-2018 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by O C Diver (Post 646935)
Poor inside florescent lighting. It's Carinthia Blue.

Everyone who has seen it, really likes it. Boot stripes are the same color.

Ted

Nice.

Donna 03-21-2018 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HopCar (Post 646867)
Briteside or Pettit Ez Poxy will start to lose gloss at about the two year mark in South Florida. The further north you are, the longer it will last. Iím happy with it out to about three years. At that point I think it needs a light sanding and another coat.

If you are in South Florida and only get two years before you feel the need to recoating the Briteside, you will have avoided recoating the varnish at least three times.

Just throwing this out there for you. Pettit just released an additive for e-z poxy. Itís an extender you mix in. Iím going to use that when I need repainting.

Godson is the manager of the newest West Marine store!

HopCar 03-21-2018 12:33 PM

Ted, that looks great! Do you have any cracking at the seams or has the epoxy stabilizedthe Wood enough to prevent that?

NightCrawler 03-21-2018 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simi 60 (Post 646674)
We painted our rails in self priming water based Sherman Williams housepaint.
Sanded flaking varnish off to bare wood with 60 grit on a sander and rolled in two coats.

2 years down the track , zero cover and in a semi tropical climate it looks as good as the day it went on.
All above deck timber currently getting the same treatment.

Seconds on this for a color coat exterior. We did all the window frames and white painted exterior trim in this same paint with their best primer. Cleans up great and hard as a rock. We just finished sanding and painting the mast while we have it down. Ok she just finished. . . . ;)

Pack Mule 03-21-2018 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by O C Diver (Post 646935)
Poor inside florescent lighting. It's Carinthia Blue.

Everyone who has seen it, really likes it. Boot stripes are the same color.

Ted

Joy and I have both seen it up close . It’s the best fiberglass and paint work we’ve ever seen. After we saw Ted’s boat we looked at each other decided not to show him our boat :o The dark and light blue are beautiful.

O C Diver 03-21-2018 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HopCar (Post 647129)
Ted, that looks great! Do you have any cracking at the seams or has the epoxy stabilizedthe Wood enough to prevent that?

Parks,
Below are links to 2 posts from my refit thread describing the process of encapsulating the cap rails. The teak is wrapped with bi-axial cloth and West System.

Trawler Forum - View Single Post - My Short Haul Refit

Trawler Forum - View Single Post - My Short Haul Refit

No issues with cracking so far.

Ted

O C Diver 03-21-2018 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pack Mule (Post 647149)
Joy and I have both seen it up close . Itís the best fiberglass and paint work weíve ever seen. After we saw Tedís boat we looked at each other decided not to show him our boat :o The dark and light blue are beautiful.

:blush: I was wondering why I wasn't offered a tour of William.

Ted

Bigsfish 03-21-2018 04:46 PM

:)Tedís boat looks like a commercial for the finest painting boatyard. It shines and glimmers like a showroom multi million dollar yacht (and it looks great Year after year). It shamed all the boats at the Ft Pierce gathering, next year we need to move him to a different dock. :)

geoleo 03-21-2018 10:46 PM

Decided on PainT!
 
I have decided to paint over all the outside varnish on my 1982 Marine Trader DC with Sherwin Williams Industrial HS Alkyd Enamel. Color to be "Saucy Gold" SW6370. They could not do this color in Marigold SW6664. They could not do either color in Seaguard 1000 Marine Alkyd Enamel. :socool:

O C Diver 03-21-2018 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsfish (Post 647231)
:)Tedís boat looks like a commercial for the finest painting boatyard. It shines and glimmers like a showroom multi million dollar yacht (and it looks great Year after year). It shamed all the boats at the Ft Pierce gathering, next year we need to move him to a different dock. :)

You've got to stop parroting Don. We both know your boat was the focal point of attraction with Larry's and Don's a close second.

Ted

BruceK 03-21-2018 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geoleo (Post 647422)
I have decided to paint over all the outside varnish on my 1982 Marine Trader DC with Sherwin Williams Industrial HS Alkyd Enamel. Color to be "Saucy Gold" SW6370...

Just wondering,are you color blind, to any extent?:blush:

Bigsfish 03-22-2018 09:10 AM

Ted. My boat was the center of attention because all the food and booze was there, yours attracted more looks and photos. Since you were a couple of boats away your shine didn’t take away much from mine.

chriscritchett 03-22-2018 07:55 PM

FWIW, I too have used Brightside in SWFL, and the two-year life expectancy seems about right to keep its gloss. However, I extended mine for another year or so at a time by simply hitting it with some polish to get the top layer of chalked paint off. Probably would have lasted longer if Iíd actually waxed it. And mine was a bright yellow (smokestack) where the chalking showed pretty badly; another color might fare better in that respect.

Also, reading the history of the famed Ticonderoga, when she was conscripted into the Navy for WWII, her captain slathered on several coats of varnish over everything before they painted the battleship grey, and was credited with Ďsavingí her. Apparently the paint came off fairly easily after the war and never got into the grain and ruined the woodwork.

Bigsfish 03-23-2018 08:40 AM

Ted. Your costing me $$$$ but the new ice maker is great and only uses water to make ice. Happy boater since the PSS seals have been replaced and the new windless mounted. Now to check out sea chests.

O C Diver 03-23-2018 09:02 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsfish (Post 647815)
Ted. Your costing me $$$$ but the new ice maker is great and only uses water to make ice. Happy boater since the PSS seals have been replaced and the new windless mounted. Now to check out sea chests.

Irv, is this sort of what you're looking for?

Attachment 74465

Ted

Bigsfish 03-23-2018 09:25 AM

Exactly as long as Watfa doesn’t find out.

Benthic2 03-23-2018 12:50 PM

Do those qualify as a PFD or a PF Double D ?

Bigsfish 03-23-2018 03:25 PM

IMHO they are larger than breasts, they are mams.

geoleo 03-23-2018 10:55 PM

...........my thread is adrift.....................

Bigsfish 03-24-2018 09:01 AM

Amazing how that happens as a thread dies for lack of interest.

Nomad Willy 03-24-2018 10:28 AM

I’d say post #35 has great “universal” interest.

Bigsfish 03-24-2018 11:28 AM

Ted always gets the accolades.


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