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-   -   Window replacement with UPVC (http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s32/window-replacement-upvc-35840.html)

Skeeter 11-29-2017 11:50 AM

Window replacement with UPVC
 
I have been thinking about replacing some of my smaller sliding windows on the trunk of my Bristol 42 with UPVC double glazed units (teak colored).

Has anyone else out there tried this and if so what were the results?

Seems a good way to reduce leaks and teak but keep a reasonable appearance but I have never heard of anyone doing it.

Thanks in advance, Steve

FF 11-30-2017 06:22 AM

Double glazing does a great job of cutting the noise passed into the boat.

Unless the space is filled with inert gas , the heat transfer , R value is almost the same.

On most boats the mounting of the window , and the failure of the mounting sealants is the problem, not the glazing.

Skeeter 11-30-2017 06:43 PM

I wasn't concerned so much with the efficiency of the windows but more with maintenance. My windows are the sliding type with felt seals, they don't last 5 minutes in the Florida sun and it's a lot of work removing the teak frames each time they need replacing.

rocksea 12-10-2017 03:33 PM

Lookout Boat Window Frames, builds custom fiberglass frames for all kinds of boats

stubones99 12-10-2017 08:00 PM

Get a good UV film in the middle between the panes and the R value will be higher and you’ll be far cooler

C lectric 12-12-2017 01:18 PM

I'm not in the Florida sun so this may not work so well for you.
I quite with those ss tracks and the felt seals. I found the same thing; I was forever fighting with them. enough.

I started using BLACK UHMWPE. The black is the UV protection so do not be tempted to substitute the white. All my sliders are now done. The first were done about 3-4 years ago. They work well and they don't have that troublesome felt; don't need it either.
They won't be forever but I expect 10 yrs+ which for me is good

I simply cut the blank strips to the lenght, height and width needed to form a track.
Then I cut the tracks into the material to allow a bit of slop for the windows. The track bottom was left thick enough, about 1/8", to bury a screw head, silicone bronze, fully recessed so the glass wouldn't make contact.
I started with 1"W x 3/4"T x 10 ft long strips from the supplier and then trimmed to suit. First was cut to 4ft lengths for ease of sawing the grooves.

I then used a Vargus deburring tool on the edges to form a tiny curve and remove any hairs.
The stuff can be cut to final length with a handsaw.

I was able to match the old screw holes into the frame by heavily taping the old SS track on top of the new in the same orientation and then drilling the the holes in the SS tack. Then use another bit to produce the recess for the screw head. Be carefull when recessing as the material can grab and jerk the bit in and fully through. I use a bit stop collar to prevent that.

I now have to be carefull to not shove the windows too hard as the tracks are slippery and there is no felt to ball up and interfere or collect junk so they slide very easily.

Just my solution.

Skeeter 12-12-2017 01:23 PM

Sounds a good idea but what is sealing the glass?

C lectric 12-12-2017 02:51 PM

My windows are sliders, not fixed, so the pieces are not sealed. Can't be. There is teak trim to cover the tracks. Drain holes in the teak trim so the new tracks are slightly cut back to keep the drains clear for drainage.

chc 12-22-2017 09:11 PM

Any chance you might be able to share a picture of the project?

C lectric 12-23-2017 09:21 PM

To whom are you addressing the question?

If me, then PM me.

chc 12-24-2017 09:09 PM

Sorry for the confusion; PM sent


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