12V Refrigerator

[slowandsteady]

I ordered and just received a NovaKool refrigerator for my 83 Mainship III. I specified AC/DC but I was shipped a DC only. My question, should it matter? Anything wrong with running off the batteries while the boat is plugged in to shore power at the dock? I assume that the charger should be running all the time when at the dock. The dealer offered to send out the AC/DC module and split the cost with me. Should I take him up on it or just call it a day and install the DC only model?

 

[Pau Hana]

No problem at all. The challenge is that you ordered A and got B without a call from the dealer.

 

[Bay Pelican]

Perhaps one of the electrician gurus can answer as to whether the refrigerator would then be using the batteries or just the charger's power. If it is using the batteries then you are adding to the number of cycles of usage on the batteries.

Why should it cost you anything to have the part shipped. You ordered AC/DC and the dealer made a mistake.

 

[FlyWright]

I'd take him up on the AC/DC kit. On my boat, I value having the AC/DC power options.
Maybe someday you'll appreciate the capability when the cost difference no longer matters.

Love my NovaKool!

 

[rochepoint]

When we replaced our dual voltage Norcold we went with a NovaKool in 12volt only, that was over 15 years ago. It has been running very happily 24/7/365, exercising the batteries and charger.

 

[kchace]

Perhaps one of the electrician gurus can answer as to whether the refrigerator would then be using the batteries or just the charger's power. If it is using the batteries then you are adding to the number of cycles of usage on the batteries.

Why should it cost you anything to have the part shipped. You ordered AC/DC and the dealer made a mistake.

I would definitely take the offer for the AC/DC kit. While D.C. Only may be fine, you never know how your circumstances may change and you did order AC/D.C.

As far as exercising the batteries or not, as long as the charger is running and your total D.C. draw is less than the charger's capability, the power to run the fridge will come from the charger.

Ken

 

[AusCan]

My fridge is AC/DC but it always runs on DC in the boat.

The only time the AC was used was at Christmas, when I brought it home and used it to give extra capacity to the home refrigerator. You may want to consider AC for similar circumstances.

 

[Larry M]

Why bother? More parts, I'm one to keep it simple at 12 v only. . With only 12 volt, as long as you're plugged into shore powers and your inverter/charger are working right, are you really cycling the batteries? Our refrigerator and freezer have Danfoss compressors and are 12 volt only. After 10 years they have run flawlessly and have maybe have been turned off for 6 months total in that time.

 

[AusCan]

The only difference is it includes a 110V AC to 12V DC transformer. You shouldn't have to return what you have.

 

[DavidM]

12V DC only will be fine. It will have no effect on the batteries.

David

 

[ranger58sb]

I ordered and just received a NovaKool refrigerator for my 83 Mainship III. I specified AC/DC but I was shipped a DC only. ... The dealer offered to send out the AC/DC module and split the cost with me. Should I take him up on it or just call it a day and install the DC only model?

If you ordered AC/DC, and you paid for AC/DC, I don't see why the dealer would expect you to pay half the cost of the AC/DC module.

-Chris

 

[BruceK]

If you ordered AC/DC, and you paid for AC/DC, I don't see why the dealer would expect you to pay half the cost of the AC/DC module.

-Chris

Indeed. Or even change to the unit to what you ordered and pay the freight both ways. Problem is, if you take the kit instead of getting what you ordered you lose automatic switching between power supplies.
Is the DC cheaper than the AC/DC? That could be a factor affecting the foregoing.

 

[C lectric]

Electrically the batteries could care less as long as the 120V charger is operating unless you only have a tiny charger. I'm being silly maybe but there are some very small chargers, less than 10A output.

I too have a Novakool, now about 4 years old and it works well. I did order the 120V option and have since kicked myself since it was more $$ and to use the 120V option the boat must be plugged in anyways. It also could mean the unit is more prone to failure.

I don't think the 120VAC option is any advantage.

I also have a freezer which is 12VDC only which I bought later.

The question is since you did order it then why should you have to pay extra. They should refund the difference in price or send the unit for no extra. But I don't think you should have to double pay to get what you already paid for.

JMO.

 

[FF]

12V only is PERFECT.

If you paid for the 120/12 , you are due a refund for the 120v not delivered.

 

[Peter B]

12V DC only will be fine. It will have no effect on the batteries.

David

I second that. I converted a eutectic fridge to 12v Danfoss because it was such a nice large, well-insulated unit otherwise, and the Waeco 12v runs from the charger effectively when on charge at the dock, as the batteries just stay on float, so don't add to battery cycles in any real sense. Out on the water it is going to run off the batteries at 12v anyway, unless you ran a generator most of the time, which is unnecessary with the efficient Danfoss driven fridges, so you basically have a redundant 110vAC circuit in it that sometimes does give trouble when switching from one input to the other, and that circuit just converts 110vAC back to the 12v anyway.

 

[O C Diver]

I would get the kit for 12DC /120AC. If anything happens to the DC bank (blow a fuse, charger death, changing batteries, etc), I'd like the option to fire up the generator or plug into shore power and save my bacon.

Ted

 

[ranger58sb]

I did order the 120V option and have since kicked myself since it was more $$ and to use the 120V option the boat must be plugged in anyways. It also could mean the unit is more prone to failure.

I don't think the 120VAC option is any advantage.

I haven't had any sign of failure; two 15 year old AC/DC NovaKools. That's only a poll of one, though...

I would get the kit for 12DC /120AC. If anything happens to the DC bank (blow a fuse, charger death, changing batteries, etc), I'd like the option to fire up the generator or plug into shore power and save my bacon.

Yes, and it helps us sometimes manage loads on the genset while we're underway.

If the genset is running while we're underway -- usually for aircons -- then we usually have the water heater on and the two fridges set to run on AC... which in turn lowers the DC load on each main battery bank. That's especially useful when we're trolling on only one engine, since the fridge on the other (engine's) battery bank wouldn't be being serviced by an alternator during that period.

-Chris

 

[Ex Sailor]

I would get the kit for 12DC /120AC. If anything happens to the DC bank (blow a fuse, charger death, changing batteries, etc), I'd like the option to fire up the generator or plug into shore power and save my bacon.

Ted

LOL ..you must mean " save my beer "

IMHO, this fridge or anything else DC on a boat, will be powered from the Batteries. The charger ( if running ) will only top up the " total " system voltage and / or just float.

fb

 

[sunchaser]

Cutting to the chase, pull out your written order. Does it say 120/12 volt? Perish the thought, was this a verbal order? Last but not least, what are the chances you or the six fingered dealer would mis wire this patch and your issues then multiply?

There is an old saying, "Be careful what you ask for."

BTW, I too have a 120/12volt Nova Kool. It replaced a crappy Tundra that lasted all of 6 years. I like the voltage flexibility and indeed use that function.

 

[FF]

"I second that. I converted a eutectic fridge to 12v Danfoss because it was such a nice large, well-insulated unit"

This is a great option for folks with a built in reefer.

But how do you know if the installation and insulation are worth keeping?

Empty the box of everything and put in a large block (must be a block not bag of cubes) of ice.

40-50 lbs is great if you can find it.

Let the box sit fo24 hours or more , then remove the ice ,weigh it and return it to the reefer.

Let it sit another day or two, then weigh the ice block again.

IF your ice melt was under 5 lbs in 24 hours DC electric will work for you.

If your ice melt is higher a re-insulation is called for.

 

[slowandsteady]

I looked up the internet order and found the confirmation. I converted it to a pdf and sent it back to the dealer and it clearly shows AC/DC. He had sent me an email after the order thanking me and saying they power 12 or 24 volt and I can change the door to any hand and the unit has a 2 year warranty etc, etc. I replied with the hand door swing I wanted and I told him the boat was 12 volt, not knowing that it runs on 12 and 24 volt not 12 or 24 volt. That is maybe where he got confused. I never told him I wanted DC only. He did charge my credit card for the AC/DC model so I told him he should send the module to me free of charge. I haven't received a response.

 

[Bay Pelican]

An oddball use for the AC/DC model. We are in a marina at the beginning and end of each season and when we are staying for a couple of days to equalize the batteries. Because electricity is so expensive in the marina $1.10 US per kilowatt hour, we don't like to waste the solar and wind generator power we can generate. Our system is to run the refrigeration and water heater off of AC shore power and the balance of the boat off of the wind generator and solar panels. This has worked out very well for us and has reduced our shore power usage.

 

[johnrupp]

An oddball use for the AC/DC model. We are in a marina at the beginning and end of each season and when we are staying for a couple of days to equalize the batteries. Because electricity is so expensive in the marina $1.10 US per kilowatt hour, we don't like to waste the solar and wind generator power we can generate. Our system is to run the refrigeration and water heater off of AC shore power and the balance of the boat off of the wind generator and solar panels. This has worked out very well for us and has reduced our shore power usage.

Just out of curiosity, why is the electric $1.10 a kilowatt? Mine's metered and
.15 cents a kilowatt.

 

[Codger2]

BTW, I too have a 120/12volt Nova Kool. I like the voltage flexibility and indeed use that function.

Me too!

 

[Bay Pelican]

Just out of curiosity, why is the electric $1.10 a kilowatt? Mine's metered and
.15 cents a kilowatt.

Different country. St. Lucia's Rodney Bay Marina.

 

[catalinajack]

Perhaps one of the electrician gurus can answer as to whether the refrigerator would then be using the batteries or just the charger's power. If it is using the batteries then you are adding to the number of cycles of usage on the batteries.

Why should it cost you anything to have the part shipped. You ordered AC/DC and the dealer made a mistake.

Defender doesn't stand by their shipping mistakes.

 

[Panacea123]

I have a Norcold unit only a few years old.
Last yr the DC voltage sensing went haywire, it would shut down below 12.3 volts and not start again until i ran the gen and voltage eas over 13.5

Lukaly i was able to rewire th AC side to the inverter and continue my 4 month cruise.
Repaired unit when i got home.
I'd get a dual voltage unit again. Gives you more flexibility

 

[slowandsteady]

The dealer ended up doing the right thing and sent out the AC/DC module free of charge. The name of the dealer is campervanHQ. He sells both Nova Kool and Norcold. His prices are very competitive and the shipping is very reasonable. Dealing with people on the internet is a leap of faith but he earned my future business if I see something I need on his site.

 

[alanatha]

I have bought a norcold refer. And am traveling from Atlanta to gulf coast of Fla. The dealer told me I could lay it down but to allow 24hrs of back upright before I turned it on. To allow the oils to drain back down.
Any comments??

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
I've heard that about refrigerators, in general, before. Best do what the dealer recommends. Might be an urban legend but won't cost you anything to leave it for 24hrs in any case...