HELP!-Volvo Heat Exchanger Pressure Test

[Tom.B]

Hey...

I need to do a pressure test of the heat exchange tank on my port motor (TAM63L). I rented a tester, but don't know how much pressure to test with. I assume about 5psi, but I would like to be sure. Google turned up nothing. Can anyone help? I am doing this today.

THANKS!

 

[Ski in NC]

Look at top of coolant tank cap. If a standard design, it will be stamped with a psi or kPa rating. Take that rating and go a few psi over to test. Can't hurt anything at 15psi if you draw a blank on cap rating.

 

[North Baltic sea]

Hi, 0,9- max1,5 bar pressure. lift the pressure and if you have valves, close them allow pressure to be a few hours, so you can see they kept the pressure or falling.


Kippis!

 

[Tom.B]

Thanks! I thought 15 was kind of high. I was going to test at 5, but I will look on the cap now and see.

 

[Tom.B]

Nope... No luck. Just warnings on cap

 

[North Baltic sea]

Facta for you


Perhaps the most important advantage of a closed cooling system is the pressure under which it operates, typically between 6 and 15 psi. The pressure is important for a couple of reasons: First, while coolant already has a higher boiling point than ordinary water, the pressure further increases the boiling point of the coolant (for each pound of pressure applied, the boiling point rises about 3 degrees F). Second, and even more important, the increased pressure reduces the occurrence of cavitation within the cooling system. Cavitation, the rapid creation and violent collapse of vacuum bubbles, can be destructive, as each implosion can scour away metal from the cooling passages.


Engine Cooling System Tips | Cruising World

 

[North Baltic sea]

Work shop for volvo 63 cooling page29


Aftercooler, proof testing
If you suspect leakage, the insert of the aftercooler or heat exchanger should be removed from the engine and proof tested separately. Use water for proof testing. Apply the pressure for 1 minute. No pressure drop is permitted. Proof pressure 200 kPa (2 kp/cm2).
NOTE! Observe the applicable regulations.




http://www.google.fi/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwj8p6WV-JnSAhXD2ywKHSbRBZgQFggXMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmoegster.no%2Finlet_exaust_cooling_system%2520manual%2520volvo_penta_tamd61a-72j-a.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEd7Xot9rOwqbc2tjIpliFR-z61RA

 

[FF]

The cruising world info is for new modern high performance engines , as fitted to trucks or sport fish , where the cylinders are bare in the coolant.

Yes as they fire the cylinder wall will ring and cavitation wear might occur.

On our mostly antiques the cylinders are bored in the cast iron block , or perhaps have a liner pressed in.

These do not suffer from the same type wear as the high performance turboed engines.

The turbos need SCA to live , our 3 gph engines just need the green stuff.

 

[Tom.B]

The pressure tester we rented didn't have any fitting that worked on our motors, so, we took her out for a spin from Shallowbag Bay to Pirates Cove Marina. It appears that the RTV sealant "fix" I have done IS holding under full pressure and temp. The fix area is damp, but no longer dripping or running. So we are going to leave Manteo and head for Morehead, a proper boating community to get this worked out.

We can muff along on one motor if we have to, but while Wancheese is a boating town and has people there that probably fix our problem, I think I would rather be in Morehead city… Where we feel like we are more a part of the community and trust the techs that are there.

Pity the tool didnt work, but got a little boating in, and that is always a plus!!

Thanks, y'all!!