improving and maintaining Albin 33

[swordfish]

what ever kind of paint i want to use, i have to sand down anyway. and i did some more testing with sigmarine paints.

 

[swordfish]

Sigmarine paint is the paint i am going to use now...
but first i have to go crazy of all the sanding i have to do BY HAND because we can not use any sanding machines anymore.

first layer a Sigmarine 28 multi primer. after that a couple of layers 49 white

 

[swordfish]

Eventually I painted the boat and it looks good.

 

[swordfish]

While the paint is drying I had some time to finish some other side projects.

 

[swordfish]

also made some new steps, overhauled the Anchor winch and Steering cylinder

 

[swordfish]

nice name signs

 

[Lou_tribal]

Looks like you have a wagner rudder cylinder exact same model as mine.
I just unmount mine to bring it to the hydraulic shop for repair as it had a leak.
Did you rebuild yours by yourself? Did you have any issue?

L.

 

[swordfish]

yes it is a wagner (700 series if I remember)

rebuild it myself, very easy

first loosen the nut and unscrew the eye out of the piston rod. unscrew the hose fittings and dismantle completely. unscrew the endcaps out of cilinder (I had to use a pair of pliers and damaged the end of the tread, no worries )
pull on the piston rod to get the piston out of the cilinder.

inspect piston rod and cilinder wall.. damage? throw away.. good condition?? clean all parts.

I used a set of dentist hooks to get out the oil seals and O-rings.
-on the piston are 2 oil seals
-on each endcap are 1 O-ring on the outside and 1 small oil seal on the inside.
remember or write down how the seals are facing!
Get yourself some new seals and O-rings and place them in the correct way.
put some clean steering oil on piston rod and O-ring to make assembly a bit easier.

Push piston back into cilinder and screw one by one the endcaps in its place. Look trough the hole in the side of the cilinder wall to line it up with the screw holes in the endcap. you have to line it up correctly because you have to place the hose fittings back.

when putting the hose fittings back together I didn't use the kopper rings that came off. instead I used threebond 1110H (loctite542) so the fittings lined up better with the hoses

screw fittings back in the cilinder/endcaps.
Screw eye back into piston rod and secure it with the nut...

Done.


have a clean working area allot of towels and use latex gloves.

 

[swordfish]

the paint was dry enough.. so m/v Zwaardvis (swordfish) is thrown into the water

 

[Lou_tribal]

Good job!

L.

 

[swordfish]

Thnx

had a leak at the propeller shaft but was easily fixed.
engine started at the turn of the key

Just a few small jobs and then I can enjoy a boat that's ready set sail

 

[swordfish]

after a motorcycle accident (not me, it was my girlfriend) and a nice holiday there were a few chores to do.
I had no 12V outlet on the bridge.. so I made a backplate to fit a socket, 2 usb ports and the VHF plug.

 

[swordfish]

Also bought a bimini top builder kit. and of course I had to build it in the living room against the will of the admiral before fitting it on de bridge :lol:

 

[swordfish]

because the winter has started, I have taken out my petroleum stove. yet I was thinking about a parking heater. a friend of mine recently built one in and was very satisfied with it.

 

[swordfish]

because it started to freeze solidly, I decided to build in a parking heater.
I managed to get a airtop 5500.
after the install I noticed a severe heat loss in the forward pipe. so in insulated it and saw an improvement in the outflowing air of 15* C

 

[swordfish]

PS an someone please teach me how to put my photos upright??

 

[Aquabelle]

after a motorcycle accident (not me, it was my girlfriend) and a nice holiday there were a few chores to do.
I had no 12V outlet on the bridge.. so I made a backplate to fit a socket, 2 usb ports and the VHF plug.

I have only jyst discovered this thread....what a treat to see someone doing such great work and with good humour! I hope you find the time to keep us posted on future projects.

im using a folding barstool.

I would not mix aluminum and brass....unless very well isolated from each other.

I could be wrong but if the brass has enough copper in it....copper and aluminum in a salty environment are mortal enemies with the aluminum cording very fast.

If you can squeeze in a layer of rubber or plastic sheeting...it may be fine.

I shaved a half inch off my wooden mast hump, built back up with multiple layers of fiberglass roving and built a dam around the whole thing and filled with epoxy. Still good after 5 years and I use my mast/boom to lift my 200 pound dingy.

Have you finished the sides where the seats were yet?

I just filled where the seat back was and left the rest open.

Put removable black plexiglass panels there and use that area to store fishing rods. Perfect use of space on my boat.

 

[ben2go]

Very nice rework and finish. Excellent work on the wiring mess.

 

[swordfish]

yet again m/v Zwaardvis is on the hard for the winter.

 

[swordfish]

because I still suffer from a leak leak on board, I have decided to look for it again this winter.
this time i start working on "rope holes" (whats the correct name?).

pulled out the old bronse parts and cleanend the rotten wood on the inside.
sprayed foam around as a backing and started to fill with thickend epoxy for strength and seal.

when te foam dried i trimmed it out for an even 2.5 inch gap.

next week i will sand down the epoxy for a smooth finish and give it a layer of paint before i put back the bronse

 

[JustInTime]

Wow what a story, really enjoyed your journey.

 

[swordfish]

this weeks update is short.
accidentally erased all my photos on my phone, i could only recover these photos.

 

[swordfish]

last picture is the cleaning of the hull. apparently there is a layer of ceramcote and it can not be removed.
when the hull is clean I will treat the ceramcote with a sealer and cover it with a proper antifouling.

 

[swordfish]

a lot of work is done on board last week. polished some bronze and sealed and primed some holes.

getting started with isolating the hull and maken molds for the new teakdeck.

 

[ben2go]

She's coming together nicely.

 

[Verschuijten]

Very good job done.
So this winter you will stay on the hard?
Remembers me on our Ta Chiao 41.
Lots of work but God, what did I love that boat so it was not hard to continue.
Keep on doing the right work.

 

[fractalphreak]

a

getting started with isolating the hull

Are you isolating for sound or temperature? What product are you using for that?

I had recently read another thread here on TF regarding the idea of some sort of insulation to help cut down on condensation forming on the inside of the hull, but am curious if I should think about doing that for helping keep the temperature up during off season cruising...

 

[Verschuijten]

I did insulation for temperature in our CT41 a few years ago for most of the places I could reach. I used X-trem for campers. It comes in different thickness and can be glued to the hull. It also comes with selfsticking back if you like. I just put it everywhere I could reach the hull. The good thing is you can bend it so it will follow the edges of the hull. I used 1 and 2 cm and just doubled it where possible. We did not glued it, just put it in place. It helps against moisture as well. Drier air is easier to warm up and so cheaper, and with less moisture you have less condensation. We got the boat back from high in 80% to a comfortable 60% in wintertime while we lived on it. Even in summertime it helps to keep the heat out. Also in my present boat which is double scaled we used X-Trem in places where possible. Never use glasswool in your boat. It will suck up the moisture and is not able to get rid of it. It will sack, is that the right term? and will become snotty. Steel boats which were done in the past by handyman are completely corroded away from the inside because they used glasswool. Use a closed cell foam what can withstand water. Hope this will add some info.

 

[swordfish]

Are you isolating for sound or temperature? What product are you using for that? QUOTE]


isolating for temperature. want to keep the heat in, in winter. using a 6mm thick (?1/4 in?) double aluminium layered closed cell insulation.
I can just squeeze it in between. because it is cheap to come by I apply 2 layers where I have enough space

 

[swordfish]

the story continues

there was a wastewater deck cap which was not in use and in the wrong place. because I'm going to lay a new deck, I'm going to close this hole with epoxy and teak for extra support.
the small holes around the big one first were filled with wood rot stopper. it was a bit damp on the inside. next i injected thickened epoxy in the small holes until it poured into te big hole. kept on doing this until all holes were full.

after letting it set I filled up the square with left over teak I had laying around, imbedded in bostik.

only a quick sand down and ready for the new deck overley