sliding locking door latches

[Capt8888]

Hi. I am still in search of replacement sliding door latches for my 1978 37' Hershine. The original ones are in poor shape and were not SS. Any ideas? I'm sure others have the same problem. They originally locked with a key. Thanks for any ideas. Almost ready to come out of the shed with an extensive refit!

 

[Peter B]

Those locks set into the leading door edge in sliding doors are such a pain, and not very secure, so, as the door stays closed by friction normally, we just use a simple hook into an eye on the inside to secure if we want to when inside, so quick exit very easy. For the outside secure lock we use a circular type stainless security type padlock and hasp, with the hasp covering the mounting screws when locked. Much more secure those door edge key locking types.

2-3/4" Circular Padlock

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Quality-Hasp-Staple-HS923-180mm-Heavy-Duty-Zinc-Plated/400650754689?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D165b327dbfad4c039b073778ae33bd9f%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D400650754690

 

[FlyWright]

Got a picture of your current setup?

 

[Peter B]

Got a picture of your current setup?

Who Al, me or him..?

 

[HopCar]

Take a look at Merit Metal. A lot of boats used their sliding door locks back in the seventies. Another source for sliding door locks is The Brass Works.

 

[FlyWright]

Who Al, me or him..?

Sorry Peter, I meant the OP. It would help to see what he wants to replace.

 

[Peter B]

Al, I expect, (like on our boat of similar vintage), it will be one of those locks recessed into the door leading edge, actuated by a large and clumsy old fashioned type key, (usually lost because they are so annoyingly large and clumsy, & just don't fit well on keyring - or you sound like a jailer walking along), and it activates a sort of bronze or steel tooth type of thing which revolves out and over and down from the door edge, and is meant to catch over the edge of a recessed metal-rimmed aperture in the door jamb, but which often doesn't if there has been any significant deformation of door or frame. Let's see if I'm right...

 

[jetmech59]

Our Hershine uses hasp padlock setup with rotating eye on the outside made of brass it appears. On the inside there is a thumb screw affair 2.5 to 3 inches long that goes thru the wall and in a receiver in the side of the door. The thumb screw is captured so it doesn't fall out when not in use. Takes about 2 turns to engage the thumb screw securely. My cabin door does not side as easy as I would prefer. I have cleaned track extensively and lubricated with paraffin wax but didn't help much. Any tricks or ideas I am sure the admiral would appreciate.

 

[koliver]

My 1980 C&L uses the mortise locks. One side failed in about 1995, so when, after a difficult search, I found an acceptable replacement, I bought a pair. So far, I haven't needed to replace the second one. Getting the first one out without destroying the fine looking teak door was also a challenge, hence the "don't fix it if it isn't broken" approach on the second one. We moved recently, and the catalog that I used didn't make the cut, so I can't tell you exactly what it was, but HopCar's suggestion looks to be spot on. Fine Brass Hardware by Merit Metal

 

[Gulf Comanche]

Kaba Ilco Corp. - Deadbolt & Hookbolt
I have Ilco hook bolt latches on the boat sliding doors, installed 1993. The model I have looks a bit different than what's shown in the above link but basically the same as mine. Hope this helps.

 

[Capt8888]

Thanks guys for all the help. PeterB, you are exactly right. The original door latch and lock look just like the Merit Metal Products #1781. I do have the outside padlock option and the inside original captured thumb screw to lock from inside. The real reason for wanting to retain the original lock was to fill the holes in the door that now is looking outstanding in 10 coats of varnish. This brass lock will be perfect! Jetmech59, I solved the sliding door problem much to the delight of the Admiral. UHMW in place of the worn out rollers. I cut 1/8" x 1/2" x full length strips and counter sunk screws to attach. Perfect amount of friction imo! Thanks again.

 

[Peter B]

Good you got it solved Capt 8888. I agree once you have removed the old lock you are committed to replacing. I just left the one in the door there, so all you see in the keyhole, and it looks fine that way.

I presume for the door slider you picked up on the use of a strip of high modulus plastic instead of roller wheels...others have reported that as a great solution. Amazingly, considering the age of my boat, (1975) our original bronze runners are still working fine in both pilot and main saloon doors.
(Bugger...probably jinxed them now. Plastic strip details please...)

 

[HopCar]

I'm afraid you're in for a shock when you get a price on that lock. Merit is very proud of their products. They are beautiful.