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-   -   1986 Marine Trader with old worn teak decks (http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s32/1986-marine-trader-old-worn-teak-decks-22080.html)

Autoteacher 09-03-2015 07:59 PM

1986 Marine Trader with old worn teak decks
 
The teak is in terrible condition. We have several leaks that are more aggravation than a problem, yet they must be fixed before damage is done.
When we bought the old boat we cleaned the decks and sealed them with Olympic deck sealer from Lowe's. Now in the monsoon season 5 years later we are seeing the leaks. So far the surveyor finds no soft deck core.

How much is the job to remove the old teak?

What is under the teak?

What are best tools, procedures and tips for removing?

Any one experienced in this adventure?

Thanks for sharing!

CPseudonym 09-03-2015 09:01 PM

BruceK should be an excellent source of info for you. 2 years or so ago he completely refit his teak decks with spectacular results.

BruceK 09-03-2015 11:10 PM

Thanks Craig, but in fairness I was a cheque writer, though I looked in on the job almost every day, over 6 weeks of fortunately fine weather. Also, yours is an MT, not an IG. But, here goes.
What`s under the teak is some form of fiberglass sandwich. In between the top and bottom glass is almost certainly offcut teak blocks. I was lucky, I had an unexpected foam sandwich, if the wood is soft wet rotten it gets replaced. No soft areas is encouraging, I had just 2 small squares of wood sandwich, both soft and rotten.
Before that the teak planking gets removed. All those screws get unscrewed(don`t rely on the heads being good), and the teak gets levered/Fein tooled off,the glue removed, and if the substrate is ok, the screw holes get epoxy filled and faired, the whole surface gets faired, ready for your choice of new finish.
I assume that if the top layer of f/g comes off and the wood sandwich is replaced, there will be screw holes to seal in the bottom layer. I wonder if foam replacement would cost less than wood, I suspect yes, no teak to buy, less labor.
If the chosen new finish is painted f/glass you need 2 layers of f/g laid to restore stiffness, faired, and painted in nonslip. If you go with more teak (cost alert!! it is slow, labor intensive and expensive), one layer of f/g will do to restore the stiffness, plus fairing, and this time it gets glued not screwed, except maybe for the first plank, and around tight areas.
I did the bow in paint, and the sides and cockpit in teak.The painted areas can get hot, but f/g will cost much less, be much faster, and can be nicely finished.
You have to fix it or eventually you`ll lose the boat to water entry and rot. It sounds like you might be handy with DIY for this kind of work. You either need good weather or good protection of the work surface.
This could be a good time to think about access and tank replacement if indicated. Water entry is not good for tank tops.
Happy to answer any questions I can.

FF 09-04-2015 07:07 AM

The most common TT decks are simply house plywood with a single layer of GRP on top.

These suffer greatly from rot at the leaking screw holes .Pilot house the same.

It is a good question on the deck reinforcement technique.

I have seen all the rotten ply simply replaced and a bit of GRP installed .

I have also seen the deck ground ,GRP laid on either having a core or simply laid up to about 3/8 thick.

The ply was left to dry out by it self and no cabin overhead repaint was required.

Weather you will do the work or a contractor will , makes a big difference in cost.

Epoxy resin is required at least for the first layer to grab on to the old deck.

Hawgwash 09-08-2015 11:26 PM

I just found this '84 GB 49 that had teak decks removed in 2010.
It would be interesting to know the process and see how it has held up.

1984 Grand Banks 49 Classic Power Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com


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