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-   -   Minnimec Delivery Valve Seal Leak - Lehman 120hp (http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s6/minnimec-delivery-valve-seal-leak-lehman-120hp-21669.html)

Scurvy_Dan 08-13-2015 03:07 PM

Minnimec Delivery Valve Seal Leak - Lehman 120hp
 
I was unable to find any information on how to repair a diesel fuel leak on my 120hp Ford Lehman. My thirty six year old engine began to leak at the base of Delivery Valve Holders on cylinder #5 and #6. I consider any fuel leak to be a show stopper and was worried this would be the end of our boating season until repairs were made. I did some research and discovered that the service manual states the Delivery Valves can be serviced without removing the Fuel Injection Pump. I called American Diesel to find out if they sold the special tool to remove the Delivery Valve Holders as shown in the service manual. I was told they do not sell the tool and that they do not recommend owners making this repair. I was given the name of some Diesel Injection Pump Repair Shops and started calling around for a price quote on this repair. Every shop I called wanted me to remove the entire pump and send it to them. One shop even told me that they would not repair my leaking pump without also rebuilding my injectors. I was looking at a minimum price quote of $2,000 for a pump rebuild and $100 per injector rebuild - OUCH!!

There are many websites that show people how to make this repair on a leaking Mercedes Benz but nothing on a Minnimec Pump. I knew this was not a complicated repair and would not require my pump to be re-timed or calibrated. I just need to stop the leaking seals. I was able to find an online store that sold the special socket and a rebuild kit for the Minnimec Pump. Believe it or not, they are in France - autodiesel13.com/en - and they ship parts internationally! I was able to purchase the socket (ED0422) for $70 and the gaskets and seals (ED1109111) for $14 and shipping to the US was $35. Everything arrived in less than one week and I was ready to begin fixing the fuel leaks.

Before I began to make this repair I made sure the work area was clean and I added a mat underneath the pump to catch any pieces that may try to run away. I loosened/removed the fuel lines from the injection pump to the injectors just enough to access the Delivery Valve Holders on #5 and #6 (back of the pump). Once the lines were out of the way I placed the caps that were provided in the seal kit on top of each Delivery Valve Holder.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...3&d=1439467883

Now it was time to remove the Delivery Valve Guide. Once the guide was out i simply removed the rest of the components in order. If your pump is like mine you will have seven pieces when you are said and done. Do one Delivery Valve at a time and NEVER mix parts! Take great care to keep everything in the exact order it came out so that you put it back together correctly. Here are the photos of my pump during the removal of these seven components.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...7&d=1439468756

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...6&d=1439468755

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...5&d=1439468755

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...4&d=1439468754

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...8&d=1439468827

If you look at the last picture above it has all the components laid out on a mat. From left to right the parts are:
  1. O-Ring
  2. Delivery Valve Guide
  3. Steel Crush Washer
  4. Delivery Valve
  5. Spring
  6. Volume Reducer
  7. Delivery Valve Holder


You need to replace #1 and #3 with new components from the gasket and seal kit. Make sure you use the Steel Crush Washers and not the Brass Crush Washers that are in the kit. After you have swapped out these two parts you simply need to reverse the removal process taking care to put everything back together the way you found it. I placed the O-Ring in first followed by the Delivery Valve Guide and the Delivery Valve. After these components were in I placed the Steel Crush Washer in place making sure to keep it centered as best as possible. Then the Spring and Volume Reducer went back in and I re-installed the Delivery Valve Holder. Using a torque wrench each Delivery Valve Holder was torqued to 26 ft/lb.

I repeated the process for the #5 cylinder and re-installed my fuel lines. The Delivery Valve Guide on #5 did have some corrosion were the Steel Crush Washer met it's top surface. I used 320 grit and paper and cleaned it up before reassembly. The entire job took less than two hours but I would plan on 4-6 hours if you were doing all six cylinders. Before I fired up my engine I drained one of my primary fuel filters and filled it up with Hot Shots Diesel Extreme Fuel Detergent & Booster. This may have been unnecessary but since the one shop I called recommended rebuilding my injectors I figured why not? I fired up the engine and after it warmed up I ran it hard for 20 minutes. NO MORE LEAKS!!

A $2,600 dollar repair for $119. Where will I spend the other $2,481? Oops - I forgot the injector cleaner was $10 so there is only $2,471 left. Darn!!

Hope this helps!

Bob Cofer 08-13-2015 03:52 PM

This needs to be a sticky.

psneeld 08-13-2015 04:43 PM

Nice post...mine have been leaking for the last 2 trips to Florida...maybe a bit more on the last legs home...being a pretty new fuel pump...was waiting for rebuild as most say that's the way to go.


Now I see that it isn't as big a job as some have alluded to.

Scurvy_Dan 08-13-2015 05:14 PM

Thank you for the nice replies. This job was not that tough at all. I was expecting to have springs flying every which way but that was not the case. Nothing is under tension after you unscrew the Delivery Valve Guide a few turns.

What was the cause of the leak? I never feel good as a mechanic unless I know the cause of the problem. The answer (at least in my case) - the steel crush rings had corroded enough to let the diesel fuel (under a lot of pressure) leak out and up the thread fittings. With all the vibration I guess it is only a matter of time. Some mechanics suggest using red loctite on the Delivery Valve Guides during re-assembly. I did not do this but it may not be a bad idea.

I was ready to send this pump out to have it rebuilt. When I called around to get some quotes I told the shops it was a Minnimec pump from an Industrial Ford Diesel. When one shop found out it was from a boat they doubled the price and even wanted to know if I was a transient! Guess they wanted to double the price again? That was the final straw for me. I found the parts and did it myself!

Fair Winds,

Captain Dan

psneeld 08-13-2015 05:28 PM

Mine for the most part has slowed or stopped once warmed up so I am in no rush...but your post inspired me to go ahead and at least buy the socket.

ddalme 08-13-2015 05:36 PM

red locktite?? Hate to have to remove them again. The crush ring should do just find. Nice write up Captain Dan!

Scurvy_Dan 08-13-2015 06:18 PM

Quote:

red locktite?? Hate to have to remove them again.
That is exactly why I did not use it.

;-)

RT Firefly 08-13-2015 08:50 PM

Greetings,
Mr. SD. That's a helluva first or second post. Welcome aboard and well done. Thanks.

http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-conte...thats-good.gif

CPseudonym 08-13-2015 09:02 PM

Epic first post and I agree with Bob, this needs to be a sticky thread :thumb::thumb:

Peter B 08-13-2015 10:06 PM

Point taken suh..! Totally agree...
Great post.
Now I'm going to have to have a jaundiced look at mine...delivery valve holders, that is. I didn't even know I had some...

Trawler Sandpiper 08-18-2015 10:24 PM

Great write up

Martin J 08-18-2015 10:55 PM

Great article, Well done..

hmason 08-18-2015 11:17 PM

What an inspiration. I'll bet there are many projects that can be done if you just have the nerve to dig in and give it a go. Thanks!

High Wire 08-19-2015 07:14 PM

Were the steel crush washers and the brass crush washers in the same kit? If so, what are the brass ones for?
Excellent post!

Forkliftt 08-19-2015 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scurvy_Dan (Post 358165)
I was unable to find any information on how to repair a diesel fuel leak on my 120hp Ford Lehman. My thirty six year old engine began to leak at the base of Delivery Valve Holders on cylinder #5 and #6. I consider any fuel leak to be a show stopper and was worried this would be the end of our boating season until repairs were made. I did some research and discovered that the service manual states the Delivery Valves can be serviced without removing the Fuel Injection Pump. I called American Diesel to find out if they sold the special tool to remove the Delivery Valve Holders as shown in the service manual. I was told they do not sell the tool and that they do not recommend owners making this repair. I was given the name of some Diesel Injection Pump Repair Shops and started calling around for a price quote on this repair. Every shop I called wanted me to remove the entire pump and send it to them. One shop even told me that they would not repair my leaking pump without also rebuilding my injectors. I was looking at a minimum price quote of $2,000 for a pump rebuild and $100 per injector rebuild - OUCH!!



There are many websites that show people how to make this repair on a leaking Mercedes Benz but nothing on a Minnimec Pump. I knew this was not a complicated repair and would not require my pump to be re-timed or calibrated. I just need to stop the leaking seals. I was able to find an online store that sold the special socket and a rebuild kit for the Minnimec Pump. Believe it or not, they are in France - autodiesel13.com/en - and they ship parts internationally! I was able to purchase the socket (ED0422) for $70 and the gaskets and seals (ED1109111) for $14 and shipping to the US was $35. Everything arrived in less than one week and I was ready to begin fixing the fuel leaks.



Before I began to make this repair I made sure the work area was clean and I added a mat underneath the pump to catch any pieces that may try to run away. I loosened/removed the fuel lines from the injection pump to the injectors just enough to access the Delivery Valve Holders on #5 and #6 (back of the pump). Once the lines were out of the way I placed the caps that were provided in the seal kit on top of each Delivery Valve Holder.



http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...3&d=1439467883



Now it was time to remove the Delivery Valve Guide. Once the guide was out i simply removed the rest of the components in order. If your pump is like mine you will have seven pieces when you are said and done. Do one Delivery Valve at a time and NEVER mix parts! Take great care to keep everything in the exact order it came out so that you put it back together correctly. Here are the photos of my pump during the removal of these seven components.



http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...7&d=1439468756



http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...6&d=1439468755



http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...5&d=1439468755



http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...4&d=1439468754



http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...8&d=1439468827



If you look at the last picture above it has all the components laid out on a mat. From left to right the parts are:


  1. O-Ring
  2. Delivery Valve Guide
  3. Steel Crush Washer
  4. Delivery Valve
  5. Spring
  6. Volume Reducer
  7. Delivery Valve Holder





You need to replace #1 and #3 with new components from the gasket and seal kit. Make sure you use the Steel Crush Washers and not the Brass Crush Washers that are in the kit. After you have swapped out these two parts you simply need to reverse the removal process taking care to put everything back together the way you found it. I placed the O-Ring in first followed by the Delivery Valve Guide and the Delivery Valve. After these components were in I placed the Steel Crush Washer in place making sure to keep it centered as best as possible. Then the Spring and Volume Reducer went back in and I re-installed the Delivery Valve Holder. Using a torque wrench each Delivery Valve Holder was torqued to 26 ft/lb.



I repeated the process for the #5 cylinder and re-installed my fuel lines. The Delivery Valve Guide on #5 did have some corrosion were the Steel Crush Washer met it's top surface. I used 320 grit and paper and cleaned it up before reassembly. The entire job took less than two hours but I would plan on 4-6 hours if you were doing all six cylinders. Before I fired up my engine I drained one of my primary fuel filters and filled it up with Hot Shots Diesel Extreme Fuel Detergent & Booster. This may have been unnecessary but since the one shop I called recommended rebuilding my injectors I figured why not? I fired up the engine and after it warmed up I ran it hard for 20 minutes. NO MORE LEAKS!!



A $2,600 dollar repair for $119. Where will I spend the other $2,481? Oops - I forgot the injector cleaner was $10 so there is only $2,471 left. Darn!!



Hope this helps!


Scurvey_Dan, that is some priceless information for all running the engine. What a great article! I bet the mods would love to get this accessible to all somewhere it can be located easily.
Welcome aboard!
You might want to consider joining boatdiesel.com too. They are looking for information like this and would probably love to get you to put an article together. Nice job :)!!


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's
✌️

Scurvy_Dan 08-31-2015 03:50 PM

Thanks again to everyone for your kind reviews. I love my Ford Lehman and have searched the internet for information on this repair and others. There is not a lot of organized information out there and that is frustrating. I hope this posts helps my fellow boaters keep their Lehman's running without the fire risk associated with a fuel leak. Before I make any more posts I will introduce myself in the 'Welcome Mat'.

Fair Winds,

Captain Dan

Doug H 10-29-2015 06:23 PM

I am seeing fuel around the injector tube where it exits the top of one of the nuts on my Minimec pump. I assumed that it was just a loose nut -- tightened it somewhat but am lacking a flare nut wrench for a good job. Am I mistaken -- is the problem really the delivery valve holder? Seems like that would show up lower down, below the nut.

Your post is very helpful and well done!

psneeld 10-29-2015 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug H (Post 383741)
I am seeing fuel around the injector tube where it exits the top of one of the nuts on my Minimec pump. I assumed that it was just a loose nut -- tightened it somewhat but am lacking a flare nut wrench for a good job. Am I mistaken -- is the problem really the delivery valve holder? Seems like that would show up lower down, below the nut.

Your post is very helpful and well done!

I had one where tgere was a crack the tube right at the top of the nut.

Weeped for 100 hours or so then one day looked like arterial bleeding. Short stopped the day and replaced the pipe.

Eezy peezy as I had an extra pipe and was easy to see the crack.

Scurvy_Dan 10-29-2015 08:43 PM

Doug H and psneeld,

On our fuel leak, diesel was weaping out from where the Delivery Valve Holder threaded into the Injection Pump. Originally I thought it may have been the pipe or the fitting that had cracked or had come loose.

I would run the engine slightly above idle (increase the fuel pressure) and clean away any leaking fuel until you can verified the source of the leak.

Fair Winds,

Captain Dan

R_p_ryan 11-06-2015 09:40 PM

Well done! This is the kind of information that allows those with technical skill to participate in the type of boating that was reserved for those with money to burn.


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