NOOB Racor question

[bligh]

Ok, So I have a 900FG separator for the main and a 500Fg separator for the genny.
Im not sure how to change the filters in them although I found a box of spares on board. I see I can unscrew the top and remove the filter, but I'm not sure that is a good idea as I don't want to mix the fuel on the dirty side of the filter with the clean fuel on the inside of the filter. If I drain the bowl, will that drain the filter area as well. In the drawing , I see a check valve of sorts with a ball in it. So I'm thinking if I drain the bowl, I wont be draining the filter.

Can someone walk me through the steps to properly change the filter in these units?

I did find directions on how to rebuild the units which I would like to do as ther is gunk on the inside of the bowls. At what intervals should this be done and what is a good source for the rebuild kits.

BTW I found a ball bearing in a drawer of the main saloon that looks an awful lot like the ball that should be in the filter. I set it aside as I think the PO may have taken it out, but I'm not sure as I have not dis assemble the unit yet.

Thanks!
Scott

 

[bligh]

I would also like to consider installing a pump between the 500fg and the genny with a line tied back into the return so I can cycle the existing fuel through the filter.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a pump and a controller to do this?

I'm pretty sure I can handle the piping and valves, and electrical, but I'm not sure what pump would be appropriate or if there is a reason why I should not do this. I would like to make it a permanent installation to polish the fuel. Maybe I should also consider changing the filter in the 500fg to a 2 micron filter to polish the fuel better.

 

[twistedtree]

Shut off the fuel supply from the tank so it doesn't gravity feed the filter when you open it.

Then drain off any crap in the bowl, which also serves to lower the fuel level in the main filter chamber.

Then open the top of the filter and replace the element. The filter should come with two seals/o-rings, one for the T-handle screw, and one for the lid. Wet the new ones with fuel and replace.

Don't worry about any mixing of fuel in the filter chamber.

 

[Ski in NC]

Before putting lid back on, use a small jug to top up the housing. Not all the way so it spills, just get fuel level about as high as top of element. Most boats keep a 2gal jug of fuel in engine room for this purpose. Also no worries about mixing, a little crud might make it to engine secondary, but that is what it is for.

 

[HiDHo]

Scott, I'll give it a go.
First close the fuel supply valve to the filter.
Drain fuel out from the bottom fitting, you will need a bucket under the filter to catch the fuel.
Un-screw the tee handle on the top cover and remove, the old filter will have a plastic handle on the top you can use to pull out the old filter with.
Wipe out the filter cavity with a lint free rag.
If the bottom section and bowl is dirty you can remove the four screws holding it together and drop down that section for cleaning again with lint free rags,
Once you have re-assembled the bottom section close the drain fitting.
Insert a new filter, I use 10 micron filters because the engine primary filter is usually a smaller micron and you don't want to restrict the fuel pumps suction.
Anyway once the filter element is in place either back fill the filter cavity with fuel by opening the fuel shut off valve or fill with a clean diesel fuel container to the top off the filter element cavity, the idea is to not leave any air in the filter .
Screw the lid back on, the new filters come a with new lid o-ring that I change every other element change.
When done test run the engine and inspect for any leaks, the filter is under no or very little pressure so moderate tightening is all that's required. Some filters have a pressure/vacuum gage that replaces the tee handle, a vacuum indicates a filters getting dirty and is a worth while investment on a single filter setup.
Now the ball bearing, there is one in the bottom section of the filter, if it's been removed I would replace it. Google Racor filters and you should be able to print a drawing showing where the ball bearing location is and it's function.
Bill

 

[ranger58sb]

Drain fuel out from the bottom fitting, you will need a bucket under the filter to catch the fuel.

Or if a bucket or other hard receptacle won't fit, Ziploc bags can work pretty well

FWIW, we don't actually have to top off our Racors with (unfiltered) fuel; just opening the tank inlet after chaning the filter element -- before tightening down the lid, so air can escape -- allows gravity to do some work for us. Not all installations are like that, though...

Scott, Racor makes a drain fitting that easier to use than the standard drain nut; if you don't have those on there already, you might do some shopping for 'em...

-Chris

 

[Capt Kangeroo]

Where the T handle has been replaced by a guage, is the guage then acting as the lid retainer? ie: do you unscrew the guage to release the lid?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. CK. "...do you unscrew the guage to release the lid?" Yes. The Gauge sits permanently in and atop a fitting that secures the lid. So you're actually dealing with the fitting and not the gauge directly.
http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/14396_Rev_-_RK11-1669_Gauge_Kit_Instructions.pdf

 

[Capt Kangeroo]

I get it. Thanks!! The pdf nicely spoiled my next question "how do you set/read the guage". Think I'll print it & put with my files.

 

[FF]

A gauge that replaces a T handle shows OVERALL suction, eg. a plugged fuel pickup would read as a bad filter.

For offshore boats Murphy Gauges sell differential pressure gauges that read across the filter , and as most of their gauges can be had with alarm contacts.