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C lectric 04-30-2014 12:21 AM

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If you go for it then look in Seaboards info for the end cap o rings. They show two photos and what to look for. Get it wrong and the aftercooler will leak feeding your engine saltwater. And study the instructions on their site.

Photos below.

bligh 05-01-2014 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C lectric (Post 230869)
If you go for it then look in Seaboards info for the end cap o rings. They show two photos and what to look for. Get it wrong and the aftercooler will leak feeding your engine saltwater. And study the instructions on their site.

Photos below.

Thanks clectric. seaboard throws both size rings I the rebuild kit. I'll use their diagram to ensure I am using th correct o rings if I get that far.

bligh 05-05-2014 06:54 PM

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Update from my weekend on the boat. Here is what I started with on Saturday. We arrived Sat am and I got my boy all set up with his life jacket and plenty of fishing gear. I was then able to get to work.

bligh 05-05-2014 07:02 PM

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Here is the engine with the aftercooler completely removed and some w/pictures of the intake side of the aftercooler and the exterior of the aftercooler core after I gently removed it with a hammer. Also note the plastic bin with the impeller parts and other debris from the intake side of the aftercooler. The long grey thing that looks like a lead weight is actually the zinc that had broken off inside the housing.

bligh 05-05-2014 07:06 PM

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Here is the inside of the existing oil cooler! OH NO! BAD, BAD, PO!

bligh 05-05-2014 07:11 PM

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Here is the new oil cooler from seaboard marine next to the old one. And a picture of the new one installed with new hoses, of course.

bligh 05-05-2014 07:16 PM

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I also installed a new raw water hose from the seacock to the raw water strainer and a new hose from the strainer to the raw water pump. I cheated and used a little lithium grease on the hoses to help them slide on. I also installed a new raw water impeller and cover plate. I wont know if they are water tight till i button everything else back up. I also need a few more hose clamps as some of them broke as I was removing them.

bligh 05-05-2014 07:21 PM

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I brought the whole aftercooler home with me to work on. I'm going to clean the air side with brake cleaner, but I'm debating on how and if I'm going to treat the raw water side of the after cooler after I ream it with a 3/16" brass rod. I saw somewhere here that a TFer used rifle cleaning brushes. That sounds like a good idea when attached to a cordless drill. I was also thinking about setting up a pump and cycling vinegar through it. Advice welcome...

twistedtree 05-05-2014 07:27 PM

I just want to reiterate how smart I think you are to go through all this now. That's how to ensure trouble-free boating.

RT Firefly 05-05-2014 07:33 PM

Greetings,
Mr. b. I like your style.
http://www.reactiongifs.us/wp-conten...llar_bills.gif

twistedtree 05-05-2014 07:35 PM

That after cooler looks like it will cleanup just fine. Then lots of grease, o-rings, and a pressure test and you should be good to go.

By the way, when I did mine i bought two rubber plumbers plugs for the seawater openings, and made up an air fill and gauge assembly out of off the shelf fittings that screwed into one of the zinc plug holes. That allowed for pressure testing overnight to verify everything was good. It was probably $20 or $30 worth of parts.

Larmex99 05-05-2014 07:41 PM

I soaked mine in vinegar and simple green for a day and a half. After that it was easy to clean out every tube with a rod. Worked perfectly and your tubes look to be in about the same state as mine when I started. The pressure test is a great idea. I didn't do it but will on my next clean up.

C lectric 05-05-2014 08:29 PM

When you reassemble the aftercooler the grease to use is Alco Metalube. You can get it from Seaboard. It's on their site or just call them.
It is the best grease that Tony has found and he recommends it heavily.

ALso for hoses I use Rectorseal #5 - just a thin smear. Some greases may attack some hose rubbers. The #5 was Tony's idea also. That you can get at Home Depot or Seaboard when you get the Alco.
VERY Good going. You won't be sorry you are doing this work now and not waiting for the overheat you were headed for.

bligh 05-05-2014 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twistedtree (Post 231991)
That after cooler looks like it will cleanup just fine. Then lots of grease, o-rings, and a pressure test and you should be good to go.

By the way, when I did mine i bought two rubber plumbers plugs for the seawater openings, and made up an air fill and gauge assembly out of off the shelf fittings that screwed into one of the zinc plug holes. That allowed for pressure testing overnight to verify everything was good. It was probably $20 or $30 worth of parts.

What psi did you pressurize to? I think i can handle that.

bligh 05-05-2014 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C lectric (Post 232010)
When you reassemble the aftercooler the grease to use is Alco Metalube. You can get it from Seaboard. It's on their site or just call them.
It is the best grease that Tony has found and he recommends it heavily.

ALso for hoses I use Rectorseal #5 - just a thin smear. Some greases may attack some hose rubbers. The #5 was Tony's idea also. That you can get at Home Depot or Seaboard when you get the Alco.
VERY Good going. You won't be sorry you are doing this work now and not waiting for the overheat you were headed for.

Alco metal lube. I need to order a couple more things from them as well. I will just add that to the list. Thank you!

Art 05-05-2014 09:02 PM

Go bligh - GO! Nothing like re doing your new girls insides during first dates! Better than breast enhancement, IMHO... I prefer nats! Probably last longer too before a blow out!! :rofl: :socool: :dance:

twistedtree 05-05-2014 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bligh (Post 232019)
What psi did you pressurize to? I think i can handle that.

I don't recall, to be honest. My turbo boost is just under 30 PSI, so there is an argument to go to that pressure, but I don't think I did. I know I was unsure how well the plumbers plugs would hold, so I'm sure I chickened out before 30 psi. I probably went to 15-20, assuming that any leaks would show at that pressure. Just be sure the plugs point somewhere harmless in case they pop out.

I think the air couplers assembly parts sequence was, starting at the zinc fitting:

1) Tee to a pressure gauge

2) ball valve

3) Nipple to connect an air hose.

Just connect the air hose, crack the valve to pump up the aftercooler to the desired pressure, then close the valve to seal off pressurized assembly.

I then checked all the joints and plumbers plugs with soapy water to be sure I didn't have leaks in the fittings and plugs that might cause a loss of pressure other than through the AC seals.

When it held overnight, I declared success. Been running on them (I have twins) for two years now.

twistedtree 05-05-2014 11:19 PM

Hey, while you have the air hose out, you should fill up a few bladders and float that boat in your profile :-)

FlyWright 05-05-2014 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twistedtree (Post 232044)
Hey, while you have the air hose out, you should fill up a few bladders and float that boat in your profile :-)

Peter, are you waiting for delivery before doing the same and updating your avatar? IMO, if you're going to post pics of her backside, we deserve to see her topsides!

twistedtree 05-05-2014 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlyWright (Post 232047)
Peter, are you waiting for delivery before doing the same and updating your avatar? IMO, if you're going to post pics of her backside, we deserve to see her topsides!

I'll have to see if I can dig up one. I have over 2000 pictures so far, but most are super close-ups of little details, hidden wire chases, and all the stuff that you can't easily see once a boat is finished.


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