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For Sale: Grocco BV-1000 1" Full Flow Ball Valve
- Thread starter Larry M
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
- Status
OP
OP
Still available.
OP
OP
Yes, It's for a bonding attachment.
Shoalwaters
Guru
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2008
- Messages
- 681
- Location
- St. Lucia, West Indies
- Vessel Name
- "Dragon Lady"
- Vessel Make
- DeFever 41
Using my Superpowers, I have unfolded the instruction sheet in Larry's first pic.
The bronze bolt on the side of the valve barrel is a drain plug.
The bronze bolt on the side of the valve barrel is a drain plug.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
You used to be able to buy a grease cup that you could screw into the drain plug port and force grease into the ball and seal area while you worked the seacock open and closed. They worked very well. Haven't seen them in years so I'm not sure they even make them any more.
HopCar
Guru
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2011
- Messages
- 5,308
- Vessel Name
- Possum
- Vessel Make
- Ellis 28
Bill, putting grease fittings on the old tapered plug type seacock was pretty common. You shouldn't do it on the ball valve type because forcing grease in under pressure will blow out the Teflon seals that the ball rides on.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
Ah that must be what I was thinking about. The old tapered ones.
Do you really think you could force grease out of those little hand twist grease cups at high enough pressure to blow out the Teflon seals in a ball valve? Those are drain plugs right? So don't they open where they can drain out water and not behind the seal? I can't remember off the top of my head.
Or have you actually seen it happen? Seems improbable but I've seen stranger things.
HopCar
Guru
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2011
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- 5,308
- Vessel Name
- Possum
- Vessel Make
- Ellis 28
Bill, I bet if you removed the other drain plug, you could force grease in without damaging the seals. You really don't need to grease the ball valve type seacocks. Just exercise them a couple of times a year and you'll have no problem with them.
The drain plugs are to let out the water that is trapped in the valve when you close it.
If you pump grease in while the valve is closed, you'll just fill the big hole in the middle. If you pump the grease in when the valve is open, it will go between the seals.
I don't know how much pressure you can generate with a grease cup. I'm sure you could do some damage with a zerk fitting and a grease gun.
Now you've got me thinking about it. I think you could safely inject grease as long as the other plug was removed, but is there a reason to do it? Maybe.
The drain plugs are to let out the water that is trapped in the valve when you close it.
If you pump grease in while the valve is closed, you'll just fill the big hole in the middle. If you pump the grease in when the valve is open, it will go between the seals.
I don't know how much pressure you can generate with a grease cup. I'm sure you could do some damage with a zerk fitting and a grease gun.
Now you've got me thinking about it. I think you could safely inject grease as long as the other plug was removed, but is there a reason to do it? Maybe.
CPseudonym
Moderator Emeritus
Those drain plugs on the ball valves don't mean much to those of us in warmer climates. In cold climates where freeze damage is common draining the trapped water out of that closed ball valve can save your boat. Trapped water in ball valves expands when it freezes and causes them to fail.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
Yes that is what I understood them to be for. To drain out any water before winter lay up.
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