Refrigeration Renovation

[denloe1]

Approaching your dilemma from an entirely different point of view---I completely agree with Ski in NC (who posted previously). SIMPLIFY YOUR LIFE! When you're on the hook for extended periods...shut down that Norcold and use old fashioned ice in a high quality cooler (Yeti or similar) for only those items that absolutely need refrigeration. Several reasons: (1) It's easy, (2) It's cheap, (3) It's foolproof. (4) Beer always tastes colder when you dig it out of an ice chest. And think of all the money you spend running the generator to keep junk cool, a lot of which doesn't have to be refrigerated at all (eggs, butter, cheese, vegies, etc.). You'd spend far less money on ice than paying the fuel tab to keep your bologna in a power-hungry fridge!

Hi. We have an old power hungry (8amp 110AC) Tecumseh refrigeration system cooling 2 eutectic plates. One in fridge. One in freezer. It works.Fridge is always super wet inside. Home fridge is dry. What am I missing? The inverter can run it for 3-4 hours. House bank is about 400 amp hrs, then gennie time. I am thinking of switching to super efficient 12v Engel compressor. Fridge would still be wet though...ideas?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. d. How tight is the door gasket? Seems like you've got a good moist warm air supply to the inside where the water vapor condenses out BUT if in fact the fridge and freezer are wet and not frosty, I would suggest better insulation if possible.

 

[FlyWright]

Denloe1, good question and might be better answered in a separate thread. If you'd like to pursue this, let me know and I'll help you split this out. Or you can start a new thread on teh subject. I'm sure there are many with helpful ideas for you who might not see your question here.

 

[denloe1]

Greetings,
Mr. d. How tight is the door gasket? Seems like you've got a good moist warm air supply to the inside where the water vapor condenses out BUT if in fact the fridge and freezer are wet and not frosty, I would suggest better insulation if possible.

Freezer is frozen. Fridge wet. Boat is 1989. Seals likely original...good idea.

 

[denloe1]

Denloe1, good question and might be better answered in a separate thread. If you'd like to pursue this, let me know and I'll help you split this out. Or you can start a new thread on teh subject. I'm sure there are many with helpful ideas for you who might not see your question here.

Thanks for asking...sourcing the re-gasketing material for a custom teak old GB fridge door is non obvious. Maybe we call the thread refrigeration renovation?

 

[FlyWright]

 

[denloe1]

I am going to take photos of the refer freezer and machinery probably on Thursday to fully document the current setup. I have found when I do that and enlarge them, I learn new non-obvious things.

Sent from my iPhone using Trawler

 

[FF]

There have been many advances in insulation since your box was built.

Its a big job but a change might lower the consumption as much as a different compressor.

 

[denloe1]

There have been many advances in insulation since your box was built.

Its a big job but a change might lower the consumption as much as a different compressor.

Have read more and gone through the galley part of the system today. I have very large eutectic plates for freezer and fridge. I think this compressor is big and made to pull them down fast. The door gaskets are good. Fridge door latch was loose. But adjustable...so tightened it down. That may solve the condensation issue. I also insulated all the freon lines...need to go back and tie that foam down better, the self adhesive is not so good. See how it goes this season.

 

[denloe1]

Just went over all the insulation of the freon lines with lots more pipe foam and dozens of tie wraps. No more drips and bilge water of strange source. Cannot access box insulation without destruction. We'll see how this plus good sealing of doors works.