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-   -   Adjusting my valves on my Ford Lehman 120's (http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s6/adjusting-my-valves-my-ford-lehman-120s-13607.html)

kcncolby 02-04-2014 05:55 PM

Adjusting my valves on my Ford Lehman 120's
 
I want to adjust my valves and flush out the freshwater coolant out of both my engines. I have twin Ford Lehman 120's. I've drained the coolant out and want to flush it out. The manufacture recommends running the engine with the flush out and water for 20-30 minutes, then drain and put in the coolant. Is this OK on these?
I also want to adjust my valves after that is done and I have the covers off. I replaced some of the injector seals and O rings where they were leaking a little. So can I run the engines with the valve covers off or should I just screw them back on? Also, any tricks I need to know while adjusting my valves for the first time?

Thanks, Gary

RT Firefly 02-04-2014 06:00 PM

Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Wherever you are..

Xsbank 02-04-2014 06:22 PM

Put the covers back, the engines will splash oil around and oil mist that would normally be controlled with the breather.

Welcome.

My understanding is the valves can be set cold. You could do them now and button it up before you run it again.

psneeld 02-04-2014 07:33 PM

1 Attachment(s)
From my Lehman manual...adjust valves when engine at normal operating temp.

Xsbank 02-04-2014 07:40 PM

"Adjusted valves today. [FWIW—I emailed Bob Smith and he confirmed that the head bolts are NOT to be retorqued, but he did say that the bolts securing the rocker arm shaft should be retorqued prior to adjusting the valves and that the valve clearance is .015 COLD. So I didn't warm up the engine first.]"

Go crazy.

psneeld 02-04-2014 07:44 PM

good info ...thanks!

but I'm starting to hear so much conflicting info from American Diesel...both against the manual and from posters....

Makes me wonder....

RT Firefly 02-04-2014 07:49 PM

Greetings,
Mr. psneeld. I hear ya. I asked Bob Smith on one occasion about the requirement of changing the injector pump oil on the 120 Lehman every 50 hours while engine oil replacement was every 100 hours. He stated that the 50 hours was a misprint in the manual and I could change both every 100 hours. Go figure....

psneeld 02-04-2014 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RT Firefly (Post 210853)
Greetings,
Mr. psneeld. I hear ya. I asked Bob Smith on one occasion about the requirement of changing the injector pump oil on the 120 Lehman every 50 hours while engine oil replacement was every 100 hours. He stated that the 50 hours was a misprint in the manual and I could change both every 100 hours. Go figure....

And other's are adamant that AD says 50 hrs....hmmmmm

While I love having a serious resource for our ancient engines, and that no one or one org is perfect or consistent...wonder the possibility/reasonableness that someone would create a "new" manual as some of us have low time rebuilts that could last another couple decades.

A user built and screened on line manual like Wikipedia only for Lehmans?

Xsbank 02-04-2014 10:48 PM

That's a good idea about the manual. The old clam crushers are so simple and so reliable that as long as they have fuel and air, they will beaver away until something critical breaks. Most of your maintenance can be done with Crescent wrenches and a hammer. Maintenance is dead easy and if you change out the drain plug on the Simms with a tap (and use zip-lock bags) all that's left is to suck out the oil occasionally, check the belts and plug any leaks. Filters, buy a new trans cooler and keep your old for a spare, buy a new lift pump ditto (single largest cause of oil leaks). Anyway, I'm repeating myself.

FF 02-05-2014 05:17 AM

Penray has an excellent 2 part cleaner to flush an engine.

The easiest method for adjusting the valves is 2 feeler gauges.

Its called GO -- NO GO and does away with the >feel< requirement to get the adjustment correct.

IF 15 thou is required 14 should pass thru with minimum drag and 16 should be really hard to shove in.

The trick is to hold the adjusting screw in position and seat the lock nut at the same time.

Go for it , its easy,

12.003 – Penray Off-Line Cleaner Twin Pack

penray.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/TechnicalBulletin12003.pdf‎
Removes harmful scale and sludge deposits from the entire cooling system. - Removes ... Flushes the cooling system of loosened debris. USAGE NOTES:.

PS ,,for folks purchasing a dock queen that may never have had a proper oil change Penray also has oil flushing products.

kcncolby 02-05-2014 08:31 AM

Thanks everyone for all the great input!

alormaria 02-05-2014 10:02 AM

I didn't change my injector pump oil for several years. Now I do it every year. No difference. It never even thanked me.

dannc 02-05-2014 10:46 AM

Make sure you use coolant made for diesel engines.

jleonard 02-05-2014 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alormaria (Post 210988)
It never even thanked me.

"Thank you!!"
There, I heard it. :dance:

psneeld 02-05-2014 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannc (Post 210997)
Make sure you use coolant made for diesel engines.

American Diesel if you take their recommendation says plain old Green Prestone is fine...the engine was designed long before the coming of the long life diesel coolant.

Anyone hear different from them or Bomac? Anyone know if the issues requiring higher performance coolant are ever present in a Lehman?

AD's response to me was that the cavitation and corrosion issues just aren't there on a low performing Lehman.

Ski in NC 02-05-2014 12:35 PM

Green AF is fine in a Ford/Lehman. No steel liners to get cavitation/corrosion damage. There is some aluminum in the system- header tank on front of head, maybe some elsewhere. Anytime you have al in the system, it becomes important that the corrosion inhibitors not be depleted. So change coolant every few years or so.

The 225/275 have lots more al, especially that sandwich at back of manifold. Those really need the corrosion protection. I think most here are talking about the NA 120's etc.

alormaria 02-05-2014 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannc (Post 210997)
Make sure you use coolant made for diesel engines.

Oh great. I just switched to this too. Even bought the indicator stuff.

Again. Nuttin.

RT Firefly 02-05-2014 12:38 PM

Greetings,
I just buy the 50/50 pre-mixed purple diesel stuff. Pour it in and VIOLA. Don't have to mess with mixing buckets or transfer from jug to jug. Not the cheapest but a no-brainer as regards simplicity.
Mr. Al. Last change I did, port side "pee'd" warm fluid on my leg. Can I interpret THAT as some sort of thanks?

psneeld 02-05-2014 12:46 PM

Is your "purple haze" from before or after the coolant leak?:D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIB33eTrgBY

dannc 02-05-2014 01:01 PM

The diesels in my Ford truck and JD tractor both require diesel rated coolant. The tractor engine, a Yanmar by the way and an excellent engine has a liner but the Ford does not. Both engines are using the same coolant type and I use JD coolant in both engines.

I can't see how a marine diesel operates in such a manner where cavitation is not possible or a concern. It certainly is a big topic/concern for tractors and trucks. The JD coolant I am using is good for 3-5 years but there is coolant out there that lasts for even longer.

I do buy the premixed coolant since it is fool proof.

Later,
Dan


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